Choosing an electronic boost controller? Here is a good run-down...
Do you only target a certain G below a certain MPH for traction and then ignore G once you're really moving? I don't think G would be so relevant at 140 mph.
And you taking about 3g and 1g i have a hard time believing you know anything about what G forces are really doing unless you are taking about 3000hp car going down track
On most roads or even crappy airfields here, I can barely manage more than 0.6g and even those instances are rare because conditions vary so much. Obviously this will vary during a run/distance too...
Hence it is exactly what I said, a HUGE variable.
If you can hit a specific high acceleration g target for your vehicle on every road, with every tyre under all driving conditions...then that would be truly exceptional
Do you only target a certain G below a certain MPH for traction and then ignore G once you're really moving? I don't think G would be so relevant at 140 mph.
A tire/surface only has traction to supply a certain amount of acceleration (G).... Regardless of the speed
Yes it changes some based on if you are using the chassis actively at lauch and say with down pressure at speed but it is a narrow range. Especially when on the street
Hp needed to deliver G goes up exponential with speed
To do 1g at 30 mph takes nothing.... To do 1g at 150mph takes some serious power
Say on my car... On nittos and asphalt.
I know the tires will hold around .85g. above that you are going to start having problems
Around 110ish mph is when I Run out of power to sustain .85g.. and that's with enough power in to be trapping 170+ at the track
If you had a solid base boost strategy developed say like I do.... And then you had a closed loop PID targeting G modifying the the base boost curve....... It could work amazing
Here is track pass where full power is in within 1 second (not me ero). Note the G trend

Here is how mine is on the street. Trying to hit and hold .85G
The boost curve to do that will not look like you think it would that is for sure
It would amaze you how this works, and I am serious.
I can stop on the highway, not do a burnout of any sort and run a 9.50 on what most consider monkey poo tires
Doesn't matter if the road is 100 or 30, or if I move to nice concrete. The max attainable G doesn't move drastically like Stevie is insinuating. Not like all of a sudden it's .5g and then 1.5g on another surface. Unless you are racing on water
We simply move the curve left or right
It happens sooner to deliver higher, and it happens later to deliver less
Even same roads here can vary massively depending on weather, temperature etc etc.
Even the same shitty airfield we have here can vary massively. And if using g as a reference, 0.1, 0.15g can be considered as a pretty huge difference
The boost curve to do that will not look like you think it would that is for sure
It would amaze you how this works, and I am serious.
I can stop on the highway, not do a burnout of any sort and run a 9.50 on what most consider monkey poo tires
Doesn't matter if the road is 100 or 30, or if I move to nice concrete. The max attainable G doesn't move drastically like Stevie is insinuating. Not like all of a sudden it's .5g and then 1.5g on another surface. Unless you are racing on water

Solenoid response if obviously going to be slower, so I use a few datalogs to tighten up the PWM min/max limits and we have ourselves a perfect working G-based boost controller.
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Parts list:
VR conditioner circuit (I use this for traction control too) - $28
Ebay Arduino Nano - $3
3 Port MAC valve - $25
3G accelerometer - $15
Total cost - $71
Inputs:
-Front wheel speed for MPH
-Rear wheel speed for traction
-5v signal from MAP sensor
-Accelerometer G
-Target G (Variable)
-Max boost (Variable)
Example:
-Max boost = 20 PSI
-Target G = 1 G
Input target G and current G into the PID and it will output duty cycle for the 3 port MAC valve.
Read the MAP, if boost > or = Max Boost, do nothing (maybe reduce the duty cycle a little?)
If Rear wheel speed > Front wheel speed, reduce duty cycle for traction.
As long as you aren't at MAX boost yet and you aren't spinning the tires, the PID should be able to keep the MAC valve dead set on target G.
Should be cake. Very little programming, very little $$$.









