Stock O2s are useless to look at WOT, I have some logs with EFIlive and the wideband, I use the a/c pressure to log direct in efilive, every blast the wideband reads the same and the O2s range from .880 to .980 depending how hot they are.

I love this wideband, its installed in the car permanently now. I use the display at the track or I can use efilive and log it along with everything else. The kit with the sensor was like 200.00, if you can solder a double sided PCB its an easy build..

All 4 of these screenshots are from the same log, pic 1 the O2s are even at 965 or so at 11.6:1, pic 2 they start to seperate a little (the wideband is on the LH side and thats the O2 that is at 900). Pic 3 the one is down to .890 and the wideband a/f hasnt changed. Then on pic #4 which is only a minute after pic three they are both dead even again at ~.940 and the wideband a/f is the same. If you look close you can see the stock O2s follow the wideband curve but they just arent consistant enough to do anything with. I have seen them run from 1v to .860 with the exact same wideband a/f.

 

So, it's possible even comparing how they differ between banks is like chasing my tail, right?

$200.00 WB kit? It's down like that, now? Where do you get this kit?

What do you mean "a/c pressure to log direct"?

Thanks, man.

 

What do you guys think of this unit?

LM-1 Air/Fuel Ratio Meter (KIT) #16139

at http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm1.php

For $349.00 it includes:

LM1,
Bosch 5-wire Wideband 02 Sensor
10ft. Sensor Cable
10ft. Power Cable (Cig)
6ft. Serial Cable for PC Connection
Bung/Plug Kit
Software CD
Quick Start Guide.

 

The LM1 is a nice unit, just make sure it can log rpm on its own if your version of autotap doesnt read the high side a/c sensor. You just take the linear wideband output and un it into the pressure switch plug, with efilive you can apply a correction to make it read direct like I did.

I use a tech-edge, I bought mine as a kit and built it myself and built my own cable so it was pretty cheap and it can log RPM, two 0-5v inputs and 3 temp probe inputes and has a nice big display. I had mine set up for logging rpm, boost using a 2 bar gm map sensor and fuel pressure using the autometer sender. Its a nice unit but the instructions are pretty non-existant so you need to experiment a little sometimes.

There is also FJO plus another company the sells a slick little self contained wideband with wireless logging, dynojet sells an in-car setup also now. Lots of options..

If you go to rob raymer's site he has a vid of the tech-edge wb display like I use on a dyno pull - take a look, its a lot better then trying to figure out O2s. I have swapped the wideband sensor from LH to RH several times (its in one of mt FLP ORPs) and even though the stock O2s vary up to .100 side to side sometimes at WOT the wideband always reads the same bank to bank. The reason the LH on mine reads leaner is because it gets hotter where the stock O2 is placed in the header, you can swap the sensor to the rear O2 bungs (cant use them after cats though) to do the same thing.

 

Here's the instructions on using EFILive to log Wideband data with the LM-1:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/137303-how-i-used-efilive-capture-lm-1-wide-band-o2-data.html

 

Thanks for the advice, guys.

kp, is putting these together fun for you? If I got the DIY, would you consider assembling it for some extra cash? I'm experimenting with so much stuff right now, I just don't have the emotional energy to invest in a DIY WB right now.

 

Its no big deal to put one together, it would take me a few days. Biggest pita is making the cable (make sure and buy a cable kit), the controller and display is fairly easy to put together. If you paid me to assemble it it really wouldnt be worth buying the kit but if you arent in a huge hurry I can do it for you for free. I use the cheaper sensor from VWparts.com (45.00 or something like that) so make sure and buy the correct cable kit. I never use the internal logger that comes with it, I use a laptop and the software on their site. It has like 32k of on board memory and you can dump the logs into a PC but I never got it to work right. Everything else works as advertised, the guy who wrote the program claimed it was something on my end but its not really a bit deal if it doesnt work..

You may be better off with one of the other commercial units time-wise. I am heading out to the track now but there is another comapny that sells a real nice compact WB thats has a linear output so you can log through efilive, has a display and is like 325.00 including the sensor. Cant remember the web page but there was a recent wideband thread here or in the tuning section and I put a link up there..

 

Cool.. I'll look at that one.

I'm not in a hurry. But, if it takes a long time, I don't want to put you out. I know what you mean about people asking you to do things that aren't worth what they could ever pay.

 

Some more tuning.

I had the T-Tops off. Absolutely NO audible detonation.

93 Octane. First run after adjusting the tune there was a couple more degrees of KR, but after that first blast, it settled down to what you see consistently. I saw a consistent 13 to 14 degrees Boost, even going into 2nd. The belt breaking in? Is it still too close to stay that way? We'll see.

After a last blast, my transmission line or dipstick came loose somewhere, and I had it towed in, rather than drive it with trans fluid leaking. Last thing I want to do is jeapardize an already taxed 4L60E.

I liked the way it felt. I need to adjust the exhaust better, too. Too much bumping going on under there. Increase the power, there's always more to do.

It's not short-shifting either. I have to verify it at the track before I can whoop for joy, but it shifted about where I programmed the computer.

What's different? I did two things. I smooth the timing table to a very even flow across the whole table and (TeamZR1 suggested this one), I decreased the torque at the lower RPMs. Another immediate advantage was, with less crazy-mad power, I hooked better, even on the street, and power was more even, yet still came on strong. I may not be at 757 RWTQ anymore, but power is definitely up. I also was able to get the PE/RPM curve to look more like stock. I LOVE this Boost Referenced Regulator. I managed to get Inj DC below 100%, but I need to do some more. I'm hoping, at the dyno, I find I don't need as much fuel, but if I do, I guess I have to bump the pressure some more. But, I'm already at 62 base + 14 = 76 peak pressure.

It will be good to hook better and shift where I program instead of trying to wing it shifting an A4 manually.

 

Maybe your exhaust is giving you false knock. You mention it bumping around. I seem to remember some people with pacesetter y pipes complaining about getting false knock because of it banging the car. But then you had no knock retard in first gear.

 

I had KR in 1st gear during my first run. That's why I'm thinking it may be exhaust banging related as well; it happens randomly. I have my Lo-Octane table matching my hi-octane table, so I rule out it shifting between tables.

 

No problem either way, if you want to do the tech edge kit I can do it for you - take a week at the most and it will take a couple weeks to get the kit from them. It has a lot of features and is a pretty nice unit for the money. I had the version 1.0 (S_J_H has it now), the version 1.5 which I didnt like and this version 2.0a which I am really happy with.