Hit all the cylinders and make sure they are firing as well. If there are multiple dead cylinders or too much timing that can be an issue as well.

 

Okay so a little more to add to this. I seapped the fan blades over and it helped a ton. We are now tuning ( we street tune) and we're seeing temps in the 210s. I know with tuning your putting added stress and heating on motor but still seems a little high for my liking.

Id like to get the under hood temps down more. So far ive :

Removed cowl gaskets and trimmed cowl back about an inch
Removed fan shroud
Flip fan blades
Cut small holes in bumper to aid air flow
Wrapped exhaust manifolds
Wrapped hotside piping
Wrapped downpipe
Turbo blanket

I think thats it. Im really lost with how i can get lower under hood temps to aid with my cooling. I thougjt about buying 2 4" exhaust cutouts and putting them on the front bumper to aid in front air flow along with an air dam.

What suggestions do you guys have other than what ive mentioned?


ran the car with the front end in the air for awhile with a rad funnel on it and didnt get any bubbles. When i use my infrared temp gun on the front crossovers the pass one was 245( measured on the front of the head) and the other side was 220 measured in the same spot except drivers side

-Cody

 

How hot is it outside where you are at? I would say 210 is acceptable. The coolant isn't boiling due to the added pressure of the system. It should be over 230 before it starts to boil. It's expensive, but Evans coolant might be something for you to think about.

 

What is evans coolant? I have water wetter in there now.

When testing, it was 75 with low humdity which leads me to believe its going to run even hotter when its 80 or 90 out.

Heres something to think about. My alternator is on the drivers front side of the motor, so i had to move my coolant sensor to the back of the head. My rear steam ports are plugged off. So is it possible thats where my excess temperature is coming from? The steam/ coolant cant leave the rear of the heads fast enough and is causing it to have hotter rear temp and read that higher temp constantly because the sensor is now relocated back there?

 

What does the infrared thermometer read on the plug in the normal location? I would say most likely not since the front steam vent is still available.

 

Im not sure ill have to check tonight on that.

 

I didnt get a chance to check that tonight, but i did however have a chance to make a " shovel" type air dam. It grabs air from below the intercooler and sends it up towards the front side of the radiator. Ill give this a try tomorrow night after the paint cures and see how the car reacts. Ill also get those temp readings front sensor port, vs the back.

I also noticed on my 2013 silverado, after driving it home from the city ( 45 min) it seems like the passenger head is a little hotter on it as well. Just figured id toss this out there. My truck, has the back steam vents plugged just like my camaro.


-Cody

 

My passenger head does the same thing, don't sweat it. The front vs the rear also has a huge temp variance. This is a testament to the shitty coolant flow in the LS heads.

 

Okaay well heres the next comment then. If thats the case, hypothetically if my coolant sensor was in the front of the head it might be reading the motors 190 vs 220 lol

 

Your factory sensor is in the front of the head. I have not read through your whole thread I just saw the comment and wanted to tell you that it it is common.

 

Maybe im reading that wrong lol. Whats common?

 

Shitty coolant flow and temperature variances between heads/sections of heads.

 

So basically my assumption could be correct. If i moved the sensor to the front it could change the temp reading for the better lol

 

In my particular case the front of the driver head is reading 20-30* hotter than the rear of the passenger. 4 port steam system with a swirl pot.

 

Ill temp it tonight all over the car and report back with a ton of temp readings and will go from there. Remember though, this test will be with the new air dam installed.

I hope after we get this solved, this thread helps many later down the road. When i was searching this topic endlessly, nobody had any information on the subject besides add more fans. Not everybodys situation is going to be related to low fan cfm.

Hope to provide some good info for others here.


-Cody

 

triple check that you bleed your system correctly
holes in your shroud would help at speed if you dd on hwy
build a shroud so that air can only move through the radiator and heat exhchangers
can you also add puller fans? and maybe move a bit away from hotside turbo?
make sure you have good pressure in coolant system
get more air funneled through sealed airway from front bumper
check waterpump,

 

Ive tried multiple times to bleed the system. I have yet to get anymore air out of it.

As stated above i built an air dam. And while it did help, its still running hot ( read below for temps)

As for the fan situation. I have 2 2650cfm pushers. As for adding a puller ive exhausted every possible way, but there isnt any. With having twin 38mm wgas and big crossover piping, its crammed.


Today after i bolted the shovel style air dam on, we drove the car probably 5 miles. When we pulled back into the shop we were at 206. I let it idle while i inlocked the shop. We hit 208. Pulled it in and let it sit there, it hit 218 and stayed there for awhile and didnt move. Now with that 218 temp, ( (sensor measuring rear port) heres what my infrared temp gun read.


Upper hose 167 ( measured at rad)
Lower hose 215 ( measured at rad)
Thermostat housing 222
Upper hose outlet on pump itself 210
Drivers crossover 215
Passenger crossover 225
Coolant sensor 215
Front coolant plug 245 ( previous coolant sensor location)



Hopefully somebody has somethinf dumb to try as ive exhausted most options people have gaveand while ive yet to overheat. Im running warm.

Front and back of head are fairly cool temps ( under 200 or around there). Lower rad hose is still expanding a little as well. ( 1/2" expansion on a 1.75 hose .)

 

The problem with trying to compare the plug to the sensor is that the sensor sticks into the coolant channel where as the plug is just that. It will catch the heat from the cylinders due to the soak.

 

While i do understand that, i still do not think my temps are too Good temp for a turbo car. So from here lets start with dumb stuff to try and work to the harder things.

Okay so first off, according to what i read, the flow is backwards from a normal motor. According to what i saw online and on diagrams, the ls cooling system flows in from the bottom and out the top. ( correct me if i am wrong) .

Now with that being said, my lower hose is hot and my upper hose is pretty cold. If the flow is the way i said, then it would be working correctly.

Now onto the next form of business. Could the thermostat be an issue or does everybody agree we've ruled that out?

My last question would be, i cannot find coolant capacity on the griffin 27.5x15 radiator, but id like to know it. I think ive increased coolant capacity in my system, not lost it. But i want to make sure. I looked on prodemand for an 02 ls camaro cooling capacity which it says is 3 gallons. I have exactly 3 gallons in my car. Now the reason i say i increased capacity is because i no longer have a heater core or heater lines.

Thinking about drilling a hole in the thermostat and putting it back together but i dont think thatll solve this.

Hope to get this solved soon.

-Cody

 

Remind us what you're trying tot accomplish. Are you looking for the same temps everywhere you check? Or do you expect the engine to run 160 degrees? I don't see anything wrong with what you've go going. 210-218 after sitting with no air through the radiator is fine. My buddy has a vette that runs 220 on the interstate with the air on an everything's fine. I think your temps are fine. Go drive it and enjoy. It's the only thing you haven't tried yet. Put tape over the temp gauge so you quit staring at it. Go enjoy your car, it's a bad ***! As long as it maintains temp and doesn't boil over, it's not overheating. I wouldn't sweat 210-215 while cruising even. Plus all these temps are with a couple pusher fans? Those are the worst fans you could put on a car. Might as well put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. But if that's all you can do, then that's it. Did the 218 temp you got after sitting go down once you drove it again or did it keep going up? If it went down after being at 218, leave it alone. The car's fine.