The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Hi guys, so I have a multi-part question and all input is welcomed. I have recently completed an LS turbo build and have realized somethings. Let me start with the completed car specs first.
2002 Camaro SS
Stock Short Block
Patriot Stage 3 CNC Ported 317 Heads
230/230 .609/.609 115+2 Cam
LS6 Intake w/ Ported Factory TB
60 lbs Siemens
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump w/ Racetronix Hot Wire Kit
Huron Speed V1 AC Hotside
Turbonetics TC7868 Ball Bearing Turbo
Tial 50MM BOV and 38MM WG set at 6 lbs of boost, sees 5 lbs.
Full 3" Exhaust w/ huge Magnaflow muffler
Stage 2 T56 Trans w/ Monster Stage 3 Clutch w/ Tick M/C
Moser 12 Bolt w/ 4.10 Gears
C5 Z06 Wheels w/ Nitto NT05's
Bilstiens/Stranos
UMI Race Rear Suspension w/ 5 point Frame Connectors

So upon seeing what it would take to add a 10 lb spring to my combo in regards to just the fuel system like modifying the bucket and having to keep the tank full and bigger fuel lines I see the build getting farther and farther away from ultimate drivability which is a big concern for me. I had a 70 Camaro that morphed very far from a street car and I regretted it so I don't want to see that happen with this car. What I'm looking for is input on how to maximize this current combination like differential gear changes, meth, etc. Any input that doesn't involve adding more boost or fuel. The car is a street car and has not seen a track yet and may never see one. Any input from you guys would be greatly appreciated as always. Cheers!

DavidBoren

Without raising boost, you can raise compression by milling the heads, decking the block, and/or using a thinner head gasket... as long as you still have optimal squish. A custom grind cam dedicated to your application usually proves to be beneficial, as well.

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

A 2-step would be a good idea, it will help with launching if race on the street or track.

I would switch over to Viking coilovers for shocks as well, you will have the ability to setup for the street or the strip vs. your current shocks which are geared towards road race/handling.

stevieturbo

You could easily run double the power potential, and it would still have impeccable street manners. What aspect of driveability are you concerned about ?

And why scared of a little more boost ? 5psi isnt even tickling it yet.

But yes taller gears would help, At such low boost meth would be pointless, and yes a better fuel pump would make sense to allow for future upgrades.

DavidBoren

He isn't afraid of more boost. He doesn't want to go through the hassle or expense of redoing his fuel system.

And a 10# spring would require a new pump/lines, according to what the OP stated in the post you quoted.

stevieturbo

Using meth as a bandaid to an inadequate main fuel system is asking for trouble.

Using meth at only 5psi....waste of time.

There are right ways to do things, and wrong.

What a complete and utter waste of time/money building a turbo setup, to run only 5psi.

That's like my shitty old Volvo 940LPT...it runs 3.5psi boost as standard !!! really, why ???

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

I agree with the above. Pushing the torque curve to the right (with head/cam/flow/VE mods) has the bad rap of making a car less streetable (with the notion that street cars spend more time at lower rpms where these mods typically decrease engine torque).

Boost on the other hand, is available to any engine, street car or race car, without any of the draw backs from the above. Mind your octane limit, peak cylinder pressure (ign timing setting), and air fuel ratio- and use as much boost as you possibly can to increase engine VE and overall flow (and therefore, horsepower).

As to fuel, a simple cost effective setup for 650rwhp is twin in tank $89 walbro pumps. You run one all the time, and switch the second one on when you need it. "Some" people (ahem, supra folk) will even run 3x of these pumps tied together for an 850rwhp combination. Being only $89/ea you can fuel a 800rwhp car for under $300 just be ready to replace them every couple of years.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

I'm not too overly concerned with the suspension since I just put low mile Strano's and Bilstein's in it and it has a great balance of handling and comfort so I'll leave that alone. I bring up the fuel system because from the research I've done to run say a AM 340 you need to cut holes in the bucket to feed it, when you do this you get fuel starvation and aeration when the tank level gets low with cornering and acceleration. I don't want to hassle with that, like I said pure street car. I'm not totally against upgrading the fuel lines but would like not to if I can help it. I'm only running 5 psi because I don't want to over power my current 255 pump, so take a breath Stevie, I planned on turning it up. Can I run two Walbro 255's and not redo the fuel system and still hit 600 rwhp or so? At that level I would introduce meth but only to reduce heat soak, I was also contemplating a set of 3.55's might be a good idea as well as I seem to shift ALOT with the 4.10's lol.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Has anybody run twin 255's with the stock lines and had no issues? Also how would you go about wiring something like that up? I know a Hobbs switch would be in order and probably a relay but what about the rest? I was also looking at 3.55's and Jeg's had a note for a 3 series carrier for 3.55's and mine has 4.10's so its a 4 series carrier so is that going to be a problem? Done many swaps on 10 bolts but never a 12. Thanks guys!