Turbo suggestion for twins
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Turbo suggestion for twins Bought a 06, 6.0 out of a truck and need some advice. I'm replacing the usual, head gaskets, studs, cam, lifters and springs. This will be a street and strip deal. I have tons of hood, and side clearance. Not a whole lot in the front. I really want to run twins. On page 27 of Denmah's most common bought items is the set up I'd like. VS racing forward facing headers, some real nice 90's to mount the turbos which I need to find out where they came from. What turbos would work good and hold up without breaking the bank? This is budget, so I'd like to find something on ebay, VS or CX racing I figure would have something.
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How much boost power do you want to make? Pair of 38mm gates should be plenty if your placement is done correctly.
Personally if I were buying china cheapies I’d jump right into the 76/65 units with .68 t4 housings. Same price as the 70mm and move a little more air. A S366 will move more air than the cheap china 76’s. Wicked69 ran out of steam faster than I would have though with the 70’s.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251453904780?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Personally if I were buying china cheapies I’d jump right into the 76/65 units with .68 t4 housings. Same price as the 70mm and move a little more air. A S366 will move more air than the cheap china 76’s. Wicked69 ran out of steam faster than I would have though with the 70’s.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251453904780?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
How much power do you plan to make? As for wastegates, I went with the On3 44mm units. I almost went with the eBay tial knockoff but read too many horror stories them not opening, over boosting, and popping the motor. I was able to get 2 turbos, 2 wastegates, and 2 bovs for about $1100 shipped. I eventually plan to upgrade to s366 and with either Tial or JGS gates and bovs, but the ON3 stuff should work on the mean time.
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I want to run some high to mid 9's at some point. I'll update as I can, this will be my first LS and turbo. Plus it's going on an unusual set up. Plus you always want to go faster. I just want to make some more passes again. It'sn got to be on a budget right now, the doctors have taken enough this year to buy several turbos. I'm going to have to depend on you all to guide me.
Depends what you want to spend.
For a basic 6.0 LS S366’s are the best quality turbo for a twin setup IMO. You can get them for about $550 shipped each. (look on Ebay)
The china 76/65’s above for china turbos at $300 each. The china units are also smaller than the S366’s and might be easier to package. Either are capable of 1000+whp. Reliability on china stuff is hit and miss. A lot of failures I’ve seen reported are user error and would have taken out any turbo... China made or otherwise.
With a little common sense and preventative maintenance, I’ve never had a problem with a china gate. Take them apart initially, deburr, lubricate, reinstall with red Loctite. Then inspect the shaft and lubricate yearly (high temp grease) and you *should* be fine. OBX makes some of the better china WG’s I’ve seen. They don't appear to be the same re-badged gate castings sold by EMusa, godspeed etc...
2 38mm gates are plenty! The larger the gate the less control you’ll have. I can regulate a single 1.25 T4 with a divided 2” hotside (38mm on each side) down to 8lbs. Less if I installed a lighter spring. Twins will have less drive pressure than most singles and require less gate diameter.
For a basic 6.0 LS S366’s are the best quality turbo for a twin setup IMO. You can get them for about $550 shipped each. (look on Ebay)
The china 76/65’s above for china turbos at $300 each. The china units are also smaller than the S366’s and might be easier to package. Either are capable of 1000+whp. Reliability on china stuff is hit and miss. A lot of failures I’ve seen reported are user error and would have taken out any turbo... China made or otherwise.
With a little common sense and preventative maintenance, I’ve never had a problem with a china gate. Take them apart initially, deburr, lubricate, reinstall with red Loctite. Then inspect the shaft and lubricate yearly (high temp grease) and you *should* be fine. OBX makes some of the better china WG’s I’ve seen. They don't appear to be the same re-badged gate castings sold by EMusa, godspeed etc...
2 38mm gates are plenty! The larger the gate the less control you’ll have. I can regulate a single 1.25 T4 with a divided 2” hotside (38mm on each side) down to 8lbs. Less if I installed a lighter spring. Twins will have less drive pressure than most singles and require less gate diameter.
Try and contact wicked69. His car flat out hauls! He definitely got the twins figured out. I believe I read he started with the on3 stuff. Very knowledgeable guy. Give him a shout. It'd be well worth it.
The on3 70's will easily meet your goal of a mid to high 9. I have them on my SBE 6.0 and ran 10.2@142 at 7000' DA a few weeks ago. Launching at only 2 psi and 3400 race weight. Once I get a few other things situated, it should run a 9 up here.
I have twin 38mm wastegates on it and can hold 4 psi (spring pressure) boost no problem.
I have twin 38mm wastegates on it and can hold 4 psi (spring pressure) boost no problem.
The on3 70's will easily meet your goal of a mid to high 9. I have them on my SBE 6.0 and ran 10.2@142 at 7000' DA a few weeks ago. Launching at only 2 psi and 3400 race weight. Once I get a few other things situated, it should run a 9 up here.
I have twin 38mm wastegates on it and can hold 4 psi (spring pressure) boost no problem.
I have twin 38mm wastegates on it and can hold 4 psi (spring pressure) boost no problem.
14-16 pounds peak. At about 1000', my rear tires started rubbing the rear bumper so it would load and unload as the car got a little bouncy. My converter is also about maxed out, 15% slip in high gear, so that wasnt helping either. This combo has a lot more in it once dialed. I think the OP would be pretty happy, and it was cheap.
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I need cheap right now. I heard the OBX gates were good. I got a lot of room, don't think I'll have a problem there. I'm sure I'll need some help when I get started. Soon as more money comes along, I need to pick up a cam, Ls7 lifters and a set of springs. What timing chain do you all run?" Also, been wanting to ask about the eng valley cover. Seen some on ebay, knock sensor delete. Also wondered if I should vent the crankcase from there or a hose from each valve cover to a tank. So many questions.
For the same cost the 76mm flows more air than the 70mm and 6.0 guys are having zero troubles spooling them. You can make your power goal with smaller turbos too, but they will be working harder and heat the air more. (less efficient) China turbos are already crazy inefficient compared to the new turbos. I’d want more wheel diameter personally.
You can get the new style LS3 GM lifters for $90 shipped to your door on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-Hydra...hTcibJ&vxp=mtr
12646386 is the newer heavy duty GM chain. It’s a nice OEM piece. Used with new factory gears that’s all you need. Stay away from cheap autoparts store timing sets! Better off with the original 100k+ mileage set.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OEM-Engin...BV52GF&vxp=mtr
If you want the ability to adjust cam timing and plan to degree the cam (Which I suggest doing) the Cloyes single adjustable billet roller is nice and not super expensive. Around $160 for the set. I’ve seen several aftermarket cams needing big adjustment on the newer gen4 engines.
Valley cover vents are nice, but not needed if you’re on a budget. Newer engines shouldn’t have the knock sensors in the valley cover, thy should be on the block. Even if it does, silicone the rubber covers in place, remove sensors and move on if you don’t plan to use knock sensors.
You can get the new style LS3 GM lifters for $90 shipped to your door on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-Hydra...hTcibJ&vxp=mtr
12646386 is the newer heavy duty GM chain. It’s a nice OEM piece. Used with new factory gears that’s all you need. Stay away from cheap autoparts store timing sets! Better off with the original 100k+ mileage set.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OEM-Engin...BV52GF&vxp=mtr
If you want the ability to adjust cam timing and plan to degree the cam (Which I suggest doing) the Cloyes single adjustable billet roller is nice and not super expensive. Around $160 for the set. I’ve seen several aftermarket cams needing big adjustment on the newer gen4 engines.
Valley cover vents are nice, but not needed if you’re on a budget. Newer engines shouldn’t have the knock sensors in the valley cover, thy should be on the block. Even if it does, silicone the rubber covers in place, remove sensors and move on if you don’t plan to use knock sensors.