Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Car seems to drink water and I can't seem to narrow it down. Had to add ~.5 gal yesterday after a few WOT hits the night before. (Edit: This is an LT1, gen 2, just to be clear)

-Car never overheats
-Plugs look really good, tune is good
-Oil is dark as sin, but no sludge
-The usual steam at cold start up but nothing at hot idle

The only odd symptom is a semi frequent water discoloration on the side of car that overflow is on. Dream would be that overflow (1qt) is too small and it fills then overfills before motor can draw back in. But reality is its prob torched a HG.

Thoughts?

stevieturbo

Monitor pressure in the cooling system, that will give a better picture of what's going on in there under load.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

I have no real way of doing that, running an 0411 PCM so nothing fancy to add another sensor to.

stevieturbo

A plain and simple pressure gauge is better than nothing

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

I can see what I can rig up with a port on the head.

For the time being I ran a line from the top of the overflow tank to the rear with another tank in the back just in case it is pushing water.

Would doing another torque on the studs be worth the effort of yanking manifolds? Or are HG trash regardless if head lifted?

3 window

iTrader: (1)

I ALWAYS retorque after getting it hot for the first time. Pain in the ...., but it's worth it to me. Give it a shot. Won't hurt and might fix your problem. Plus, they sell the tester to see of you're getting exhaust gas in the coolant system. Never bought one, but I have used them at a shop in the past. They work well.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Gonna pressure check the system tonight, if its a leak, maybe try re torquing but I think once its leaked, the gaskets are gone no?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

The push to reset tire gauges make for a nice and easy way to record max pressures for under $5. good idea to have one on the cooling system. My also check the VC vents for signs of coolant. I had very small amounts of coolant in my catch can and vents.

stevieturbo

MLS gaskets are pretty resilient, but when they're gone they're gone. No amount of re-torquing will change that.

But if it's handy enough to do, it can do no harm.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

I will look into that, I didn't notice much goop when I drained my catch can last oil change, but just dumped it and walked away.

Removing the headers and re-torquing is only less painful than pull heads by the cost of buying gaskets Either way, the process sux0rs.

Shownomercy

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Tossed 18lb in radiator, left it for about 40min, lost ~4psi

Guess I am pulling heads.

SSZ

I wouldn't yet.
I ran into similar issue with my quad. Same symptoms.
I bought that kit for checking for exhaust gases in the cooling system.
That's what I had. I was gonna pull the head and do the gasket then said screw it and did a re torque. Problem solved. It's been close to ten years I bet. I know it's not the same engine but same symptoms.

sbcgenII

iTrader: (1)

http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsD...006_0361073538

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Coupled with a few clunks when cranking, I am finally accepting I need to do HG.

Standard felpro 1074's or MLS like I was running?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

MLS is kinda vague. The LS9's plain work, I wouldn't run anything else on a mild build.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

SBC gen 2, so its a TFS MLS .040 compressed gasket. No alphabet soup engine stuff here.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean clunks when cranking? Did the engine hydro -lock at all? If it did pull it apart and have the rods checked. I lost 2 engines in the past due to bent rods from hydro locking. Stupid on my part. One was from a small leak around the head gasket oring and the other was from an actual part of the head casting fell out. If you bent a rod, the engine will eventually spin the rod bearing and weld itself to the crank. Not good.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Yea I will be checking to see if I shortened any rods when heads come off.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Doh! I assume everything on this sight is an LS I suppose. I never had good luck with the graphite gaskets. They are a great weak link to have. If I ran into any detonation they’d blow quick. Unfortunately they would also tend to leak after a year or 2 on their own when running "big boost". If your confident in your tuning I’d go with the MLS.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

I think the tune is fairly conservative and I am not really asking much from the motor. Will def be checking heads for straightness and rods for shortness.

Hopefully this is a cheap fix.