who is running PTC 9.5"
who is running PTC 9.5" Have a PTC 9.5" with 14-35 Stator and it was way too tight for the power I was making. Long story short I popped the 370 over something stupid and I'll be putting a gen 4 5.3 with isky 215/112*
if i can sell it ill be going with a PY3400 but if funds dont allow i went ahead ans called PTC and spoke to Lane he recommended a 16-45 stator. I stressed to him that I wanted it tight cruising around town but would like to be able to 60" a decent number on footbrake and 305/45 ET Street R's
What is everyone running stator wise and power/build combo?
Gen4 5.3 10:1
Cleaned up 853's
215/215 112*
Th400
3.25
Dual meth nozzle
S475/83 or billet s476/83
3500lbs
750-800WHP
if i can sell it ill be going with a PY3400 but if funds dont allow i went ahead ans called PTC and spoke to Lane he recommended a 16-45 stator. I stressed to him that I wanted it tight cruising around town but would like to be able to 60" a decent number on footbrake and 305/45 ET Street R's
What is everyone running stator wise and power/build combo?
Gen4 5.3 10:1
Cleaned up 853's
215/215 112*
Th400
3.25
Dual meth nozzle
S475/83 or billet s476/83
3500lbs
750-800WHP
Im using one and love it. Dusty Bradford spec'd 16-0 stator. Footbraking only. 1.29 best on leafs and 275 Pro.
Gen4 5.3 10:1
TFS 220
226/235 .605"/.610" 114+5
4L80E
3.25
Twin Turbonetics 6668's
3500lbs
1000-1100whp
5.46 128 and 8.56 161 best
It spools 14 psi on the footbrake with two step at 3600. Cruises nicely with trans temps in the 160 degree range in overdrive at 70mph. Took a 800 mile trip weekend trip with it.
Gen4 5.3 10:1
TFS 220
226/235 .605"/.610" 114+5
4L80E
3.25
Twin Turbonetics 6668's
3500lbs
1000-1100whp
5.46 128 and 8.56 161 best
It spools 14 psi on the footbrake with two step at 3600. Cruises nicely with trans temps in the 160 degree range in overdrive at 70mph. Took a 800 mile trip weekend trip with it.
Last edited by LS1NOVA; Nov 3, 2015 at 03:43 PM.
Had a VERY similar situation. Originally ran the 16/45 9.5 PTC on my 5.3. S476 (1.25 t4) Trip. 12 cam. glide 3.10 gear 28” tire. 2950 race weight.
I was able to push over 5k easily on the trans brake at 20+lbs. I had plans to go to a 370 that winter. So when I popped the HG on the 5.3. I sent the converter out for a tight re-stall. 14/35 is what I went with.
Ended up throwing a spare 4.8 I had in to finish the season. LS1 intake, cheap china IC everyone uses 12x32x3, small truck heads. Car wouldn’t make much over 3lbs sitting on the trans brake for several seconds. When I released the TB it fell on its face. Ended up spraying it with a 60 shot for 1 second on the T-brake to get the turbo lit. Once lite it made boost on it's own and worked VERY well. That’s it a nut shell anyway. Details are back in my build thread it’s need awhile so exact numbers might be off a little.
IMO don’t bother with the small AR housings or loose converters. Run the cheap box stock t6 1.32 S475 ( or S476) and the tight converter. Hit it with a 80-100 shot for 1-1.5 seconds out of the hole and you’ll have the best of both worlds. You’ll also have much lower back pressure and make more power with the larger T6 housing. On a side note… a 10lb N20 bottle lasts a LONG time when you only spray for 1-2 seconds. It’s cheap and effective.
Good luck!
I was able to push over 5k easily on the trans brake at 20+lbs. I had plans to go to a 370 that winter. So when I popped the HG on the 5.3. I sent the converter out for a tight re-stall. 14/35 is what I went with.
Ended up throwing a spare 4.8 I had in to finish the season. LS1 intake, cheap china IC everyone uses 12x32x3, small truck heads. Car wouldn’t make much over 3lbs sitting on the trans brake for several seconds. When I released the TB it fell on its face. Ended up spraying it with a 60 shot for 1 second on the T-brake to get the turbo lit. Once lite it made boost on it's own and worked VERY well. That’s it a nut shell anyway. Details are back in my build thread it’s need awhile so exact numbers might be off a little.
IMO don’t bother with the small AR housings or loose converters. Run the cheap box stock t6 1.32 S475 ( or S476) and the tight converter. Hit it with a 80-100 shot for 1-1.5 seconds out of the hole and you’ll have the best of both worlds. You’ll also have much lower back pressure and make more power with the larger T6 housing. On a side note… a 10lb N20 bottle lasts a LONG time when you only spray for 1-2 seconds. It’s cheap and effective.
Good luck!
I was a bit frustrated with mine until I turned up the boost.
Foot brake car, I believe I have an 18 stator.
Goes right to 5600 when I release the two step. Rides that rpm until the car catches up.
Top end slip is 5%.
149 mph is 6500 with 3.42 and 28" tires.
Love it.
Drive around of course is always subjective. I'd call mine medium loose.
Foot brake car, I believe I have an 18 stator.
Goes right to 5600 when I release the two step. Rides that rpm until the car catches up.
Top end slip is 5%.
149 mph is 6500 with 3.42 and 28" tires.
Love it.
Drive around of course is always subjective. I'd call mine medium loose.
Had a VERY similar situation. Originally ran the 16/45 9.5 PTC on my 5.3. S476 (1.25 t4) Trip. 12 cam. glide 3.10 gear 28” tire. 2950 race weight.
I was able to push over 5k easily on the trans brake at 20+lbs. I had plans to go to a 370 that winter. So when I popped the HG on the 5.3. I sent the converter out for a tight re-stall. 14/35 is what I went with.
Ended up throwing a spare 4.8 I had in to finish the season. LS1 intake, cheap china IC everyone uses 12x32x3, small truck heads. Car wouldn’t make much over 3lbs sitting on the trans brake for several seconds. When I released the TB it fell on its face. Ended up spraying it with a 60 shot for 1 second on the T-brake to get the turbo lit. Once lite it made boost on it's own and worked VERY well. That’s it a nut shell anyway. Details are back in my build thread it’s need awhile so exact numbers might be off a little.
IMO don’t bother with the small AR housings or loose converters. Run the cheap box stock t6 1.32 S475 ( or S476) and the tight converter. Hit it with a 80-100 shot for 1-1.5 seconds out of the hole and you’ll have the best of both worlds. You’ll also have much lower back pressure and make more power with the larger T6 housing. On a side note… a 10lb N20 bottle lasts a LONG time when you only spray for 1-2 seconds. It’s cheap and effective.
Good luck!
I was able to push over 5k easily on the trans brake at 20+lbs. I had plans to go to a 370 that winter. So when I popped the HG on the 5.3. I sent the converter out for a tight re-stall. 14/35 is what I went with.
Ended up throwing a spare 4.8 I had in to finish the season. LS1 intake, cheap china IC everyone uses 12x32x3, small truck heads. Car wouldn’t make much over 3lbs sitting on the trans brake for several seconds. When I released the TB it fell on its face. Ended up spraying it with a 60 shot for 1 second on the T-brake to get the turbo lit. Once lite it made boost on it's own and worked VERY well. That’s it a nut shell anyway. Details are back in my build thread it’s need awhile so exact numbers might be off a little.
IMO don’t bother with the small AR housings or loose converters. Run the cheap box stock t6 1.32 S475 ( or S476) and the tight converter. Hit it with a 80-100 shot for 1-1.5 seconds out of the hole and you’ll have the best of both worlds. You’ll also have much lower back pressure and make more power with the larger T6 housing. On a side note… a 10lb N20 bottle lasts a LONG time when you only spray for 1-2 seconds. It’s cheap and effective.
Good luck!
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I was a bit frustrated with mine until I turned up the boost.
Foot brake car, I believe I have an 18 stator.
Goes right to 5600 when I release the two step. Rides that rpm until the car catches up.
Top end slip is 5%.
149 mph is 6500 with 3.42 and 28" tires.
Love it.
Drive around of course is always subjective. I'd call mine medium loose.
Foot brake car, I believe I have an 18 stator.
Goes right to 5600 when I release the two step. Rides that rpm until the car catches up.
Top end slip is 5%.
149 mph is 6500 with 3.42 and 28" tires.
Love it.
Drive around of course is always subjective. I'd call mine medium loose.
Good stuff. I'm wondering if the 16-45 will still give me problems. You are going 149 with the 18 stator at what weight? That's right at where I want to trap and I weigh 3500 so I'm thinking 800whp should do it.
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Verdad Gallardo Never had it behind the 4.8. I'm sure it would have done fine. Later in the year on the 4.8 I went from an ls1 to an ls6 intake and went to the treadstone IC. After those 2 changes it was able to make boost on it's own without the nitrous. But this was using a trans brake... I can't imagine you'd be happy with one that tight on the foot brake and no nitrous to help out.
Never had it behind the 4.8. I'm sure it would have done fine. Later in the year on the 4.8 I went from an ls1 to an ls6 intake and went to the treadstone IC. After those 2 changes it was able to make boost on it's own without the nitrous. But this was using a trans brake... I can't imagine you'd be happy with one that tight on the foot brake and no nitrous to help out.
Looking back at my build thread a made a mistake. I had a 17 blade stator not a 16. And I changed it to a 14.
With a T-brake the 17 stator was overly loose IMO. Street manors were OK. Not as tight as I like, but didn't boil the fluid or anything. I was able to make 24lbs fast on t-brake and it would stall well past 5k if I let it.
If you want a basic foot brake setup that plain works, I’d go with something similar to Ron’s setup. I don’t have experience trying to foot brake launch.
Without another power adder or a T-brake, you can’t have an instantly responsive turbo with low back pressure and a tight converter. Need to pick what’s most important to you.
Huge turbo, tight converter, T-brake, and 80 shot will be the race winner without sacrificing street manors IMO.
With a T-brake the 17 stator was overly loose IMO. Street manors were OK. Not as tight as I like, but didn't boil the fluid or anything. I was able to make 24lbs fast on t-brake and it would stall well past 5k if I let it.
If you want a basic foot brake setup that plain works, I’d go with something similar to Ron’s setup. I don’t have experience trying to foot brake launch.
Without another power adder or a T-brake, you can’t have an instantly responsive turbo with low back pressure and a tight converter. Need to pick what’s most important to you.
Huge turbo, tight converter, T-brake, and 80 shot will be the race winner without sacrificing street manors IMO.
I'll see if i can grab my specs when i get home. I dont footbrake tho. Imo trans brake is the only way to do a turbo car.
I did the nitrous thing tight converter and didnt like it. It worked but nothing like a transbrake.
I did the nitrous thing tight converter and didnt like it. It worked but nothing like a transbrake.
Looking back at my build thread a made a mistake. I had a 17 blade stator not a 16. And I changed it to a 14.
With a T-brake the 17 stator was overly loose IMO. Street manors were OK. Not as tight as I like, but didn't boil the fluid or anything. I was able to make 24lbs fast on t-brake and it would stall well past 5k if I let it.
If you want a basic foot brake setup that plain works, I’d go with something similar to Ron’s setup. I don’t have experience trying to foot brake launch.
Without another power adder or a T-brake, you can’t have an instantly responsive turbo with low back pressure and a tight converter. Need to pick what’s most important to you.
Huge turbo, tight converter, T-brake, and 80 shot will be the race winner without sacrificing street manors IMO.
With a T-brake the 17 stator was overly loose IMO. Street manors were OK. Not as tight as I like, but didn't boil the fluid or anything. I was able to make 24lbs fast on t-brake and it would stall well past 5k if I let it.
If you want a basic foot brake setup that plain works, I’d go with something similar to Ron’s setup. I don’t have experience trying to foot brake launch.
Without another power adder or a T-brake, you can’t have an instantly responsive turbo with low back pressure and a tight converter. Need to pick what’s most important to you.
Huge turbo, tight converter, T-brake, and 80 shot will be the race winner without sacrificing street manors IMO.
Sounds good. I respectfully beg to differ. Stock48 is going 1.3x 60 foots on footbrake with a T4 76mm and tight PY3400. He also went 5.7x 1/8 with a 75/83 cast wheel deal so it is possibly but everything must work together.
And how fast would he go on a tbrake? I been 1.28 at 3800 lbs and not even close to optimized yet.
I never said you couldnt be quick on footbrake. Simply saying tbrake is much better option
I never said you couldnt be quick on footbrake. Simply saying tbrake is much better option
Stock48's converter is pretty loose as well. It slips alot down low and that really helps multiply torque and get the turbo spun up fast. If I left at 2lbs with the 14 stator on my 5.3 setup it would bog. The new 6.0 will pull through it with a tame 1.5x 60'.
I believe I figured 8-10% on top for his fastest drag week pass, depending on the calculator used. Thats quite a bit of slippage these days. I see around 4% or less last I checked.
I believe I figured 8-10% on top for his fastest drag week pass, depending on the calculator used. Thats quite a bit of slippage these days. I see around 4% or less last I checked.
I have a 16 blade stator in my ptc and it's deff loose on the street, really flashes high when pulling away from a stop light. However though I told Dustin@PTC that this is more of a track car that I drive on the street so it's more spec'ed for the track. Now on the track it's definitely loose enough where I can build 15 lbs on the trans brake in about 3 seconds at 3500 rpm and 60' out when it couples the power it feels like a m6 car dumping the clutch, lol. I definitely need to tune the suspension in more so when it hits it doesn't blow the tires off.
I have a 16 blade stator in my ptc and it's deff loose on the street, really flashes high when pulling away from a stop light. However though I told Dustin@PTC that this is more of a track car that I drive on the street so it's more spec'ed for the track. Now on the track it's definitely loose enough where I can build 15 lbs on the trans brake in about 3 seconds at 3500 rpm and 60' out when it couples the power it feels like a m6 car dumping the clutch, lol. I definitely need to tune the suspension in more so when it hits it doesn't blow the tires off.
i could be very wrong.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: In the garage
When discussing converter specs there is a lot more that goes into how a converter works. Trans brake vs foot brake, rear gear, tire size, race weight. The same identical converter can flash 400-600 rpm differently from one car to the next according to the other pieces of the puzzle.