Lost my motor last night, so whats the recipe?
11-04-2015, 07:26 PM
#21
Gen IV were 24 toof through 07?
At any rate that shouldn't be an issue.
Most corvette owners would prefer an alum block.
An L33 would be a good choice. Unless you are dead set on a larger engine.
They aren't as easy to find as they once were though.
The rebuilders buy them up for the blocks which are much the same as your LS6.
I bought the LJMS 5.3 Rod/piston package for my L33. Not yet installed. Half afraid to take it apart, it runs so well.
Ron
At any rate that shouldn't be an issue.
Most corvette owners would prefer an alum block.
An L33 would be a good choice. Unless you are dead set on a larger engine.
They aren't as easy to find as they once were though.
The rebuilders buy them up for the blocks which are much the same as your LS6.
I bought the LJMS 5.3 Rod/piston package for my L33. Not yet installed. Half afraid to take it apart, it runs so well.
Ron
11-05-2015, 07:01 AM
#23
Most gauges read lambda, so it does not matter if its 14.7 or 9.5:1, it sees 1.0 lambda as stoich, so 11.5 on gas and 11.5 on e85 on same scaling is actually a different afr if that makes sense. I had a hard time getting this in my head also, and cant explain it the best. I run .78 lambda on e85 which shows on a gas scaled gauge as 11.4 afr, but if it was scaled for e85 it would show like 7.5 or something
Most stay away from the 98 blocks as they have a thinner steel liner. That's why 98 blocks cannot be honed as much as a 99+. 99% of the time when something fails its not the block anyways.
11-05-2015, 07:56 AM
#24
It’s not that they aren’t strong. You just can’t clean them up much. Once you have to hone them any kind of major cylinder damage, they are basically a throw away item. Costs more to re-sleeve than they are worth. I believe they are a .015 max overbore on the 98's. And I wouldn't want to run them that thin with boost. On the other hand the alum 5.3’s have a ton of meat so it’s no big deal if you have to bore/hone them. Iron blocks weigh 80lbs more. Not a huge deal breaker IMO add a pound of boost to make up the added weight.
I hear these kinds of stories all the time. Yet these 1000-1200whp beasts go to the track and click off 600whp trap speeds. Dyno talk is usually all hype. Show me a 3500lb car trapping 160+ for 8 years on a “stock block” LS1… it’s not gonna happen.
My ls1 had a stock crank with forged pistons and rods. The guy i sold it to made 950rwhp in his monte for 4 years before his turbo took out the motor. Theres an 1100hp camaro thats been running around here on the stock block with a forged rotating assembly for the past 6 or 8 years. Just sayin that people are out there making HP on LS1 blocks. Not saying its the way to go but people are doing it and the ones i've been around seem to be holding together.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 11-05-2015 at 08:12 AM.
11-05-2015, 10:40 AM
#26
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It’s not that they aren’t strong. You just can’t clean them up much. Once you have to hone them any kind of major cylinder damage, they are basically a throw away item. Costs more to re-sleeve than they are worth. I believe they are a .015 max overbore on the 98's. And I wouldn't want to run them that thin with boost. On the other hand the alum 5.3’s have a ton of meat so it’s no big deal if you have to bore/hone them. Iron blocks weigh 80lbs more. Not a huge deal breaker IMO add a pound of boost to make up the added weight.
I hear these kinds of stories all the time. Yet these 1000-1200whp beasts go to the track and click off 600whp trap speeds. Dyno talk is usually all hype. Show me a 3500lb car trapping 160+ for 8 years on a “stock block” LS1… it’s not gonna happen.
I hear these kinds of stories all the time. Yet these 1000-1200whp beasts go to the track and click off 600whp trap speeds. Dyno talk is usually all hype. Show me a 3500lb car trapping 160+ for 8 years on a “stock block” LS1… it’s not gonna happen.
11-05-2015, 11:00 AM
#27
TECH Addict
Paceperformance has forged LSA rods @ $36/ea and the LSA crank for $560... Just another option to consider when looking for forged rotating assembly kits on a budget.
11-05-2015, 11:46 AM
#28
Are the cranks in the LSA's forged as well? Or is it the standard crank like in all the other LS engines.
11-05-2015, 03:04 PM
#30
I understand the concept of lambda and went through Greg Banish's training. I think what threw me off is even though the gauge says 11.5:1, the motor isn't seeing 11.5:1 on an E85 scale.
Most stay away from the 98 blocks as they have a thinner steel liner. That's why 98 blocks cannot be honed as much as a 99+. 99% of the time when something fails its not the block anyways.
Most stay away from the 98 blocks as they have a thinner steel liner. That's why 98 blocks cannot be honed as much as a 99+. 99% of the time when something fails its not the block anyways.
