Boosted51

I'm introducing my car and plans for it.. I'm in the process of putting a 5.3 in my 240sx. The motor is out of a 2002 Suburban with 53k miles. I've done some small things to the motor already I've only had it a few days, drilled, tapped and installed -4 oil feed, welded -10 fitting to each valve cover for a twin breather set up I will be completing in the upcoming months. Gave everything a good scrub down so i don't get grease and dirt on everything.

Depending on how much room and how far back I can get the motor in there without having to hammer out the transmission tunnel too much, I plan on going twin 66mm bw s300. If there isint enough room for 2 turbos I will just fab up a merge and run a single 76mm on the passanger side fender well. I'm going to try and not cut anything on this car. Keep as much of the factory sheet meal as possible.

I'll be doing mock up and fabricating then once that's all done and I'm happy with it, I will take the heads off and swap out new valves, springs, cam and possibly a port job haven't decided yet. Might gap the rings while I have the heads off but still in the mock up stage so I'll deal with all that when the time comes.

I drew up the passanger side motor mount. I didn't have thick enough steel so I just made it out of 11 gauge for a practice. The mounting flange will be 1/4" then the rest will be 3/16" I will adjust the angles on the mounts once I drop the motor in the car and check for clearance. The 4 bolt holes on the mounting flange will also be slotted 1 inch (left and right) so i have a little adjustability.

Boosted51

on the passanger side truck manifold, where are you guys cutting the 3 bolt cast flange off to weld v bands? Before or after the little nub? Everywhere I've measured with the dial caliper it seemed to be a little too big for 2.5" v bands. Maybe I'll grind the nub of and take some material off to fit the 2.5 snug. Any ideas?

DavidBoren

Sorry I can't help with the manifold chopping and welding, as I don't know. But I still wanted to say welcome to the forum, and good luck with your build.

There's a couple other 240sx swaps floating around here, hopefully they will chime in to help.

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

2.5" vbands fit perfectly on the truck manifolds just about anywhere you cut them.

StangTamer

iTrader: (6)

^ What he said, pretty much anywhere you want to cut. Here's how i cut mine

IronBlocked

That's one clean Silvia man, congratulations and looking forward to heariing it run

2muchboostNY

iTrader: (8)

Geez this is almost the exact same project I never finished. GL on the build I will keep my eye on this.

Boosted51

I'll try and post updateds as recently as possible.

Boosted51

Today I cut my manifolds, grinded the mating surfaces flush with 120 grit belt sander so they sit flush to the vband flanges with no gaps what so ever. First I quickly blasted them to get rid of any grit and rust flakes then hit them with the DA for a clean uniform look. Washed and degreased them let them dry real good then took the chop saw to em. Also cut out and metal finished all tabs and nubs I didn't want getting in the way in the final look and also to give me a clean look for when I finished them (ceramic coat or wrap)

Next up is welding, I used one of the flanges and ran a couple tig beads on it to see how it would react. 309L on the filler, did 100 amps 90 amps and 80. Had the best results with 80. 90 and 100 were both a little too hot for my liking and kept introducing porosity to the puddle. 80 puddled very smooth and the filler flowed very well. No pre heat on this and it seemed to work out fine.

Boosted51

Got the car up on the lift today to take a few measurements for the motor mounts, removed the power steering lines from the rack to the pump and reservoir. Cleaned the bay out a bit just started planning where I'm putting everything. Also got a few pics of the manifolds and how nice and clean they fit the vbands.

DavidBoren

Nice, man. Keep it up.

Boosted51

Did a little work this morning. Finished the motor mounts. Waiting on a couple 3/4" threaded rod ends and I should be able to throw the motor in in the car for hot side fabrication and other related issues. Used 3/16" cold rolled for the base and 1" DOM .120 wall tubing for the arm. If anyone wants a template of these send me a DM super easy and gives you about 2 inch of up and down adjustability for clearance and what not.

Boosted51

More photos of the mounts. I still have to weld the collar on top of the tube but everything is pretty much done as it sits.


This is how the motor mount will mount to the factory mounting location. 2 tabs welded to a blate and a bolt will slide through to hold everything.

2muchboostNY

iTrader: (8)

Those are some sick looking mounts! Nice fab skills dude. Can't wait for the rest.

Boosted51

Thanks man.

Boosted51

Today me and a friend dropped the motor in for the first time to see how everything would line up. Fits in there like a glove and plenty of room for activities... (twin turbos)

With the stock truck pan i had some clearance issues with the rear of the pan hitting the steering rack lines. I removed them for the time being.. I either have to modify the pan and sump or just go with a different set up all together, maybe a F body sump and pan. I still have a little research to do on that. Also i have to make new rack lines but thats also no big deal. It looked to me like the truck mani was too tall to fit under the hood so i have to hunt down a ls1 intake. Basically 3 issues and none of them major.

THATS IT, THATS ALL I HAVE TO DEAL WITH. Very happy haha

Other than that, the engine should just be able to slide in there no problem. A little fiddling with mounts to get it to sit level and bam she'll be in there for good.

Tomorrow is cyber Monday so I'm planning on ordering my twins, twin gates, twin bov's and hopefully a Treadstone 2 in 1 out intercooler.

Instagram @Kristi6speed for more pics of the car and other random **** i post










Now the the motor is in the car i need to cut the driver side manifold a little more and at a 45 degree angel so it faces up instead of down for easier hot side routing.








I still have room to push it back another 5 inches.

2muchboostNY

iTrader: (8)

The GTO oil pan works but most have to modify the crossmember. You could also pick up an aftermarket one like Canton. As far as the intake goes the LS6 would be your most optimal setup for FI as far as an oem intake. From what I gather the car intake will not work with truck accessories but with FI you would want the car ones anyway for more room. The CTSV ones will give you the most room between rad and block.

Boosted51

I was thinking just an aftermarket pan. Should work perfectly as long at the pick up tube dosent sit too far forward.

Boosted51

Made a quick engine lift plate. Was tired of using chains and seat belts to hold the engine straight while installing. If anyone wants the measurements and dimensions for this just ask.

Used 3/16 hot rolled just grinded the mill scale off where i was welding. Everything is tig welded with 309l.



Made a paper template




Transferred the template to steel




Marked all the holes out and center punched them




Made sire everythign was true and plumb 90 degree angle






Tack welded with .035 filler to keep the tacks small so they didnt interfere with 1/16 filler




Fit it up on the engine with tack welds to see how i like the height. Was very happy so burned it in




I stitch welded every few inches alternating sides so no shrinkage occurred and stayed true to 90 degree




More welds..




Finale. Came out pretty slick and beats paying $125 for something i can make for free.

bluhatch99

nice welds,i can tell is gonna be a bad *** build