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EGT monitoring

Old 12-02-2015, 02:28 PM
  #21  
I need a gauge for that
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I put one on my setup pre-turbo just before the housing just for fun. My setup always ran hot as **** for whatever reason, messing with AFR and/or timing never changed it appreciably at cruise. Idle would be 800F, cruising would be 1400F, and full power would be at least 1800F and would still be climbing when I would let out. Wrapping the pipes with 2 layers of wrap increased temps about 150F overall (numbers stated are with wrap).
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Old 12-02-2015, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
I put one on my setup pre-turbo just before the housing just for fun. My setup always ran hot as **** for whatever reason, messing with AFR and/or timing never changed it appreciably at cruise. Idle would be 800F, cruising would be 1400F, and full power would be at least 1800F and would still be climbing when I would let out. Wrapping the pipes with 2 layers of wrap increased temps about 150F overall (numbers stated are with wrap).
That's great info
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Old 12-02-2015, 03:27 PM
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As soon as diesel guys see those numbers they are going to **** a brick
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Old 12-02-2015, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic View Post
As soon as diesel guys see those numbers they are going to **** a brick
pssst been there done that my DI tunes would hit 1600* in a split second! not exactly optimal..
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc View Post
And how could you say that?
Well being that most of you guys run widebands and given everything else that gets monitored, you should know long before a single EGT monitoring 4 to 8 cylinders you have problems. That the basis of what I was saying. Not that it was completely useless.


Originally Posted by Shownomercy View Post
Make sure you let the diesel crowd know they are doing it wrong .

My truck has one pax manifold, 100* per 10mph and I get good mpg.
Let me know when ls1tech has a diesel section and I'll retract my statement. Also, you don't see diesel guys with widebands either.

Last edited by Blown06; 12-03-2015 at 02:25 AM.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:42 AM
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I thought you meant individual cylinder not as useful in turbo as in blown or NA. I don't really see a per bank setup good for much other than trends by changing timing, fuels,Cam timing, ect

Want to increase your in header EGT, open the exhaust valve early. Trust me that will do it
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Old 12-04-2015, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc View Post
I thought you meant individual cylinder not as useful in turbo as in blown or NA. I don't really see a per bank setup good for much other than trends by changing timing, fuels,Cam timing, ect

Want to increase your in header EGT, open the exhaust valve early. Trust me that will do it
Glad we can agree
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Old 12-04-2015, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Atomic View Post
As soon as diesel guys see those numbers they are going to **** a brick
Bricks have been ****!!
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Old 01-03-2019, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rotary1307cc View Post
im resurrecting an old thread to ask a question which this image may be the answer to.
I have two EGT inputs (efilive) but im not sure which cylinders to use. Im thinking the two hottest cylinders so is it #2 and #7 in general on LS motors?
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Old 01-04-2019, 01:22 PM
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In a single bank, typically you do the collected temp (In the collector , or just before each turbo.)

The EGT is a fast reacting gauge of how balanced the ignition burn is, and lets
you know if your at dangerous temperatures for valves or turbine wheels.
Having it only monitor the ones that are normally hotter ,, is only monitoring that cylinders health,
you could have #1 clog an injector or stick one and never know till its too late..

If 1 cylinder goes "off" your overall will drop or rise, much like a lot of things its a tool thats only as good as the operators knowledge.

FWIW,, a type K thermocouple reacts WAY faster than the O2 sensors.. (Except for the O2 which also have temp monitoring like the newer vehicles... )
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Old 01-04-2019, 09:10 PM
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Fair enough, I guess Iím asking for thoughts on where to put and how to analyze two k-types on a twin turbo 5.3.
I understand without 8 of them Iím at risk of one cylinder failing or any other myriad anomalies, but I simply donít have those tools and need to work with whatís available, as most of us here do.

I decided my truck is due for some love so Iím upping my data game and planning to pull the manifolds to install bungs at the collectors to log backpressure and bungs in cylinders near the head for egts. Iím also going to replace my single wideband with two of the new aem x-whateverís, one for each downpipe.

I already log the normal stuff plus fuel psi and dome psi.
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Old 01-05-2019, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter View Post
im resurrecting an old thread to ask a question which this image may be the answer to.
I have two EGT inputs (efilive) but im not sure which cylinders to use. Im thinking the two hottest cylinders so is it #2 and #7 in general on LS motors?
EGT gauges have limited specific uses for tuning gasoline engines. For just driving around or for racing, they are useless. Diesels can use EGT in slow change situations like towing, and the uses for any engine in tuning are almost limitless. That being said, I defy anyone on this site to say an EGT gauge saved their motor during a street driving or drag racing situation. Even for road racing I doubt you would find them helpful without a team of engineers looking at the data.
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Old 01-05-2019, 09:29 PM
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A K Type does not react anywhere near as fast as an O2 sensor. That is just utter nonsense.
An O2 sensor whilst slow, can easily go full scale deflection so to speak in say 100ms and back/fro repeatedly if it had to.
Not a chance in hell a K type is doing that in an exhaust or anywhere near that response.

If you only have 2 sensors, then pre-turbine of each turbo is probably best. Or you could shuffle them about individual cylinders if you wanted. But that would be a tedious exercise.

EGT can play a role with safety if you have your ecu setup to react to what they see, but because of their very slow response times they are not a first line of defence against anything.
But you could certainly add fuel, alter timing, reduce boost, whatever if you seen any EGT getting higher than you'd like, but you'd also need to spend a lot of time to baseline what is safe and normal for your setup in order for these to be valid, and because of the slow response time, you'd need to pre-empt to a degree.
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Old 01-06-2019, 03:47 PM
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I was planning on getting one of the Redline 8 egt setups this year. I have heard from multiple sources that placement of the sensors, (depth, distance from port, angle) can give a huge swing variance to the readings. I understand how distance and depth would make a difference, but as long as all 8 are equal I cannot see how they could not read equally? Does anyone know the optimum placement for the sensors or seen any of these type issues in their setups?
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Old 01-06-2019, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Ratical View Post
I was planning on getting one of the Redline 8 egt setups this year. I have heard from multiple sources that placement of the sensors, (depth, distance from port, angle) can give a huge swing variance to the readings. I understand how distance and depth would make a difference, but as long as all 8 are equal I cannot see how they could not read equally? Does anyone know the optimum placement for the sensors or seen any of these type issues in their setups?
I drilled 8 into where the M6 heat shield cover would be on the stock truck manifolds and tapped to 1/8" NPT to install them via there. A couple of these holes are offset from the centre of the port though, but I tried to get the probes as close to exactly same position and depth as possible.
Although I also didnt install so deep to maybe place them at risk of a tip coming off.

But on cyl2 I must have tightened the olive with the probe a little further back, and this cylinder pretty much always runs a good bit cooler than all the rest. The rest arent to bad, there are variations, but no2 is always the coldest.
I had thought maybe a duff sensor, but I took 2/4 out and tested them with a heat gun, and certainly to around 300-350degC which was as hot as the gun would go, they both read identical.

So "optimum"....dont really think there is an optimum, as in reality you're just looking for cylinder to cylinder differences. Hence trying to get them all in identical locations and depth are what matters.

The tip of my probes would be just after the head/manifold interface so pretty close to the valve. The EGT probes I have pre-turbine would tend to run hotter than the individual cylinder sensors.
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:04 PM
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truck manifold

1

2
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo View Post
So "optimum"....dont really think there is an optimum, as in reality you're just looking for cylinder to cylinder differences. Hence trying to get them all in identical locations and depth are what matters.

The tip of my probes would be just after the head/manifold interface so pretty close to the valve. The EGT probes I have pre-turbine would tend to run hotter than the individual cylinder sensors.
That is what I was thinking as well. I guess mainly the best thing is to get baseline readings and keep an eye out for differences that would show an issue on that cylinder.

It is interesting that the pre-turbine readings are hotter than the per cylinder since the per cylinder are closer to the valve. Good info to have.

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Old 01-06-2019, 05:14 PM
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They're hotter as all cylinders are gathering at that restriction I guess. So just more of a build up of heat, whereas the individuals have more cool time when the exhaust valve is closed.
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:51 AM
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part of why i wanted to get EGTs in my motor stems from a thread a couple months ago where i mentioned the timing and boost im running on 93 and i got some feedback that it wasnt enough timing and would cause really high EGTs. its a huge pain in the *** pulling plugs on my truck and i already have two k type inputs so i wanted to use them to (hopefully) make sure im not getting too hot with low timing.
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Old 01-07-2019, 12:35 PM
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Ah darn, I didn't think of pointing out in my earlier post,, When I said react faster I meant when looking at an actual gauge,, not being post processed into digital data...
At that point there are a lot of variables, the type of O2 is huge in how it reacts and how useful its data is to you.. And how you display the data..

I used to race a 12A Rotary in road racing, we tried both O2 Wideband gauges and K style thermocouples and found that the driver could spot the thermocouple needles sweeping before the Wideband gave much info,, may have been the gauges themselves more than the sensors..

In any case a thermocouple is relatively simple, cheap and reliable ,, we just changed them out each season.. It was fairly straight forward , what we used them for is spotting a sudden change like a plugged jet, stuck float, etc.. You do have to get familiar with your engines pattern, the rotary would step up to about 1100 and then sweep up to about 1400 or down to about 900 based on throttle/load/etc., I broke a fan belt once and the thermocouple showed me the change before the water temp gauge (Not surprising... ) I saw the gauges pop to 1600 (Not normal) I pulled in to check and there it was..

The other nice thing is they run with no power, they are stand alone.. so even if the electrical craps out you still got something confirming health.
There is a reason almost all light aircraft had them..

Good luck!
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