Oops
#21
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From: Racine, Wisconsin
I ordered 134-3609 ARP bolts & LS1 mls gaskets.
My plan at the moment is to look for an LS2 vette oil pan to replace the H3 pan I have now (the H3 pan is too low for my car). If I can find one I will pull #5 piston, if I can't find an vette pan then I will just put head gaskets and bolts in and run it again without any PCV and see what happens.
I guess I will just weld in #10 AN fittings on the valve covers and get two breathers.
#24
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From: Racine, Wisconsin
I pulled the pan and found a Ľ" deep black grit in the bottom of the pan, not bearing material, more like burnt oil residue. I suppose that stuff has been sort of falling out of the engine for the last few thousand miles since it was pretty nasty inside when I bought it and I didn't really clean it up very much when I swapped the oil pan.
Since #5 did wasn't broken, I pulled #7, but really didn't find anything interesting, so I cleaned the crap out of ring lands and spring part of the oil rings since they had more of that black grit stuck in them.
Perhaps for no good reason I increased the top ring gap to .026 and the 2nd to .028 on these two cylinders and then put then back in with the same rod bearings since they looked pretty good for such high miles, but #5 upper bearing shell wasn't really 'tight' in the rod, so that may not be a great sign for this engines future...
Since it seems like everyone fails #7 or sometimes #5, I decided to leave the other pistons alone and just put it back together with new bolts, gaskets & LS6 springs.
The valve guides all "feel" pretty normal, but I am not an expert on that, so…
I got the arp bolts from a speed shop by Shreveport for about $50 less than summit with free shipping so I guess that is a good deal.
Having the engine set back a lot and having a Mohawk lift made this easier than I was expecting.
Since #5 did wasn't broken, I pulled #7, but really didn't find anything interesting, so I cleaned the crap out of ring lands and spring part of the oil rings since they had more of that black grit stuck in them.
Perhaps for no good reason I increased the top ring gap to .026 and the 2nd to .028 on these two cylinders and then put then back in with the same rod bearings since they looked pretty good for such high miles, but #5 upper bearing shell wasn't really 'tight' in the rod, so that may not be a great sign for this engines future...
Since it seems like everyone fails #7 or sometimes #5, I decided to leave the other pistons alone and just put it back together with new bolts, gaskets & LS6 springs.
The valve guides all "feel" pretty normal, but I am not an expert on that, so…
I got the arp bolts from a speed shop by Shreveport for about $50 less than summit with free shipping so I guess that is a good deal.
Having the engine set back a lot and having a Mohawk lift made this easier than I was expecting.
Last edited by twinturbo496; 12-30-2015 at 05:31 PM. Reason: grammer
#25
do you still have the hose from the front pass valve cover to the intake behind the throttle body. if so you are pressureizing the engine with boost and it has to go somewhere. that hose needs a check valve and your pcv can get a check valve as well so it can only suck and not blow boost itto the crankcase.
#26
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From: Racine, Wisconsin
do you still have the hose from the front pass valve cover to the intake behind the throttle body. if so you are pressureizing the engine with boost and it has to go somewhere. that hose needs a check valve and your pcv can get a check valve as well so it can only suck and not blow boost itto the crankcase.
The port in front of the blade on the throttle body goes to the waste gates.
As an experiment, I had the 10 mm port in the right valve cover plugged instead of vented with a breather, which may have been the root cause of all of this… The engine was able to pull 5-6" of vacuum on the crankcase with the port plugged, but in hindsight, repeatedly boosting the engine and then letting off abruptly was not such a good idea and likely caused the oil to get into the chamber via both the PCV and probably past the rings…
Oh well, I suppose I needed mls gaskets anyway, and this gave me the chance to clean out the crap in the oil pan… I wonder how fast that stuff will accumulate again...
#28
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From: Racine, Wisconsin
Yep, unless I put it back together and it still smokes, then I am going to be pissed…
I bought an L33 a couple years ago and it came with an extra set of springs, so since I had the heads off anyway I decided to install them.
I am wondering if the GM MLS gaskets are compatible with the GM surface finish on an engine that originally had composite gaskets… I may try to sand the heads with some 600 or 800 grit.
I bought an L33 a couple years ago and it came with an extra set of springs, so since I had the heads off anyway I decided to install them.
I am wondering if the GM MLS gaskets are compatible with the GM surface finish on an engine that originally had composite gaskets… I may try to sand the heads with some 600 or 800 grit.
#29
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Well… It was an oops, and entirely my fault.
EDIT: First day morning when I started the engine it still smoked… reinstalled the orifice in the turbo feed, smoked less, but still smoked… so I was not happy… I noticed that on initial start, the starter almost stopped, but didn't really think much of it at the time, I thought the battery must be low. Restarted it several times and it was fine, but the engine ran pretty poorly and missed at idle…
So day two on initial start, the starter almost stopped again… I pulled #5 plug cylinder and fuel poured out… in hindsight I am sure it was the same thing on the first day I just got lucky…
Deka 80 injectors purchased new, total run time probably less than 2 hours @ 43.5 psi.
My fault because when I initially installed them, one of them stuck open. I contacted the vendor and he said it was my fault due to contamination. (the system has a 10 micron filter plus the sock on the inlet of the 450 pump)
I even did a short video of it back then… I cycled it a few times with a 9 V battery and it started working again, so being cheap & not very smart, I decided to run it… I should have just thrown it in the trash and got a new one… FML
EDIT: I pulled all the 80# Deka injectors and installed a set of stock LS6 injectors GM#12561462 / Bosch 280 155 931. I found conflicting info about them, I assume they are 25# @ 43.5 psi… anyway, the engine runs fine with the small injectors, no smoke, started good, blah blah…
EDIT: First day morning when I started the engine it still smoked… reinstalled the orifice in the turbo feed, smoked less, but still smoked… so I was not happy… I noticed that on initial start, the starter almost stopped, but didn't really think much of it at the time, I thought the battery must be low. Restarted it several times and it was fine, but the engine ran pretty poorly and missed at idle…
So day two on initial start, the starter almost stopped again… I pulled #5 plug cylinder and fuel poured out… in hindsight I am sure it was the same thing on the first day I just got lucky…
Deka 80 injectors purchased new, total run time probably less than 2 hours @ 43.5 psi.
My fault because when I initially installed them, one of them stuck open. I contacted the vendor and he said it was my fault due to contamination. (the system has a 10 micron filter plus the sock on the inlet of the 450 pump)
I even did a short video of it back then… I cycled it a few times with a 9 V battery and it started working again, so being cheap & not very smart, I decided to run it… I should have just thrown it in the trash and got a new one… FML
EDIT: I pulled all the 80# Deka injectors and installed a set of stock LS6 injectors GM#12561462 / Bosch 280 155 931. I found conflicting info about them, I assume they are 25# @ 43.5 psi… anyway, the engine runs fine with the small injectors, no smoke, started good, blah blah…
Last edited by twinturbo496; 12-24-2015 at 01:53 PM.
#31
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Well, everyone says deka injectors are super reliable… but I convinced myself that the injector in #5 must be sticking… so I put in a nearly new set of stock z06 injectors, the car ran great, duty cycle was getting pretty high, but the start, idle and tip in was better than ever… I was 100% sure that the injector was the problem…. then the next morning the POS was hydraulic locked AGAIN… and again only on #5… AGAIN… 3 days in a row….I pulled the plug, liquid drained out… I couldn't believe it…
I even got a lighter and burned some liquid out of the plug to confirm it was really gasoline, not just a crack in the head or leaky head gasket…
So then it finally dawned on me that I am an idiot…