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Turbo 6.0 cam help

 
Old 12-17-2015, 05:39 AM
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Default Turbo 6.0 cam help

ran a 227/227 .632/.598 115+5, on my 5.7L setup, and it ran great with a wide torque curve.
now i'm going to a 6.0 and need a new cam.
i'm looking at the Tick turbo cams,
the 231/231 | .630"/.605" 115+5 or 235/231 | .635"/.605" 114+6
which one will produce the better torque curve?
Going in a C5Z @ 3300lbs 6Spd
PT6775 .96 T4

Last edited by FourG63 97GST; 12-18-2015 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:03 AM
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If it aint broke, why fix it?

i would give that cam a try if you where happy with it, especially being a 6 speed car.
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:10 PM
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I did break it, so I need a new cam
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Old 12-18-2015, 02:18 AM
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If you make the switch, I'm looking to buy a cam in the size-range of what you have already.
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by FourG63 97GST View Post
I did break it, so I need a new cam
You can't just say that without giving more info, Ha.
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Old 12-18-2015, 02:08 PM
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Kinda hard to pick a cam for a turbo motor... when you don't even tell us what turbo it is you are going to be using.
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Old 12-18-2015, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by gtfoxy View Post
You can't just say that without giving more info, Ha.
lost a piston/rod, looking through the motor, it has a nick on it. probably repairing, but not worth the effort for me.

Originally Posted by LJMSJohn View Post
Kinda hard to pick a cam for a turbo motor... when you don't even tell us what turbo it is you are going to be using.
sorry, I'll be running my PT6775 CEA T4 .96, which i plan to max out.
when I do, i'll most likely then switch to 6266s.
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Old 12-19-2015, 11:13 AM
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I under cam the crap out of these motors and have never been disappointed. If it's not a dedicated class racer, keep it simple. Symmetrical mild lobe with neg. overlap @ .050 and mild lift. Easy on the valve train, makes tons of power down low, and works well with OEM intakes. It's more about average power across the factory rev range than peak power numbers you see with some of the larger cams.

Mild cams also allow you to use factory valve train parts and cheap single beehive springs. Look what Stock48's mild 6.0's have accomplished with .565 lift 212/212, 218/218 grinds on a 112 LCA. (Installed on a 110 ICL) I've run both of these with $120 springs and 100% factory valve train at 25-26lbs of boost. OEM lifter/rocker/pushrod.

I'm not saying a larger cam won't make more power... or perform better, but you pay quite a bit for what I think is a marginal gain. A $265 cam swap can turn into $1000+ quick.

Last edited by Forcefed86; 12-19-2015 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 12-19-2015, 01:07 PM
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Just out of curiosity, what is your shift point on the mild cams 86?
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Old 12-19-2015, 01:46 PM
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the trouble is with that small turbo your backpressure is going to be high and under camming the engine will help. but going twins later is the complete other direction. there is no perfect cam for both. in my opinion you were over cammed in your last build for that turbo.

performance wise for both I think a isky triple 12 will work as good as any but might leave a little up stairs after you go twins . if this is a street car with a stock shortblock there is no reason to go bigger than a 218/218 cam in almost any application. as your engine restricts your top rpm and all you are doing with extra duration is slowing the spool and hurting power down low . effectively narrowing your power band. jmho.

I run a 206/212 cam in my 6.0 with a s480/t4/1.25 ar and keep to about 5800 max . not that it stops there I just haven't ran it higher yet. and haven't run anything but a pump gas 10# boost tune with 12* timing gets me 10.50s at 130 mph at 3600 lbs 1.76 glide and 3.23 gears .
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Old 12-19-2015, 05:04 PM
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Depends which cam. I use a glide and only have one shift point. 6000-6800 what ever nets the best ET.
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