Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Sweet Pea 1968 Chevy II Moar Door 4.8/7675/PG

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Old 12-29-2015, 09:05 PM
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Engine and trans are in the car and the K member is done. The hotside that came with the car was test fit.
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Unfortunately, the hotside won't work with the A2W intercooler I'm using, at least not with how I want to mount it. So out it goes.
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The hotside will be redone with 2" mild steel tube I already have. I want to mount the intercooler to the front K member tube in front of the engine but behind the puller fans for the radiator.
Old 12-30-2015, 12:35 AM
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i have the same seat cover in my Nova. really did make the ride more enjoyable, the **** recover someone did before wasnt an appealing look or feel. seems to grip better also, dont slide around as much.

love to see the dyno and street footage of your setup when its done. still havent decided what engine/turbo i am doing in my Nova, nice to see how this combo does.
Old 12-30-2015, 04:51 PM
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Mocked up where I want the turbo and intercooler to live.
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Now all it needs is a hotside, intercooler mount, coldside, wastegate, BOV, downpipe, radiator mounted, intercooler tank, hose, pump and....
Old 01-01-2016, 10:42 AM
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Hot side is done sans wastegate.
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Flex coupler and V band in crossover from driver side.
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2 inch mild steel crossovers to 2.25" merge feeding the turbo
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Intercooler mounted to the tubular K member.
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Cool picture of hotside from inside driver's wheel well looking across front of engine and behind the intercooler.
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Old 01-01-2016, 10:53 AM
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Cut down a 3" cast aluminum elbow that needs to be welded to the intercooler. That way, the turbo will connect to the intercooler with one long 45* silicone coupler to allow for flex.
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Got a deal on a turbosmart 50mm wategate that will go just outside the front frame horn to give the wastegate some priority before the turbo flange. It will dump in front of the front tire. Also have a VS racing BOV on order along with a Speedway double pass aluminum radiator. I didn't trust the 47 year old V6 radiator and the the double pass puts the inlet and outlet both on the passenger side which makes more sense with the LS. I hope to cut down and re-use the old radiator hose.

I'm also planning a little sloppy surprise for the rest of the cold side.
Old 01-01-2016, 12:18 PM
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This is a cool build! So exciting that you kept the hotside diameters so small in keeping with the math/science of it all. 2 1/4" into the turbo is even smaller than I was thinking might be smallest tubing I could bring myself to use on a build sort of like this, so I can't wait to see how it works. And really nice work, BTW!
Old 01-01-2016, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Tjabo
This is a cool build! So exciting that you kept the hotside diameters so small in keeping with the math/science of it all. 2 1/4" into the turbo is even smaller than I was thinking might be smallest tubing I could bring myself to use on a build sort of like this, so I can't wait to see how it works. And really nice work, BTW!
I ran 2" on my turbo 5.3

No solid dyno numbers, but it's loafed to an 11.44@117.1 on 10 psi at a featherweight 4100lbs and aero of a barn. It's all about heat delivery mang!!
Old 01-02-2016, 09:11 AM
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Gonna try a PVC pipe intake for the sleeper look. Strength drops off significantly at 140 degrees and up. Hopefully the A2W will keep that down.
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I'll probably put together an aluminum one for a backup. You'll never know unless you try.
Old 01-02-2016, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by HeavyMetl
I ran 2" on my turbo 5.3

No solid dyno numbers, but it's loafed to an 11.44@117.1 on 10 psi at a featherweight 4100lbs and aero of a barn. It's all about heat delivery mang!!
Are you saying that you ran a 2" into the turbo flange, and presumably then your crossover pipe may have been even smaller diameter than that? Or not? Very interesting if so!

Guard dog, that PVC cold side pipe is sweet! Lol
Old 01-02-2016, 10:20 AM
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Using PVC, I'd be more worried about engine bay temps than the charge temps post IC. My engine bay is significantly hotter than 140*. I'd think straight steel would be lighter, cheaper, and take up less space. Whats the ID of the PVC?
Old 01-02-2016, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Using PVC, I'd be more worried about engine bay temps than the charge temps post IC. My engine bay is significantly hotter than 140*. I'd think straight steel would be lighter, cheaper, and take up less space. Whats the ID of the PVC?
3 inch schedule 40 PVC is 3.042 ID with 3.50 OD.

I was thinking I could at least use the PVC on occasion, like at car shows to induce butthurt. I'm hoping I can run it at the track. But I agree with you, the underhood temps especially at long periods of idle after a highway blast would be the most likely problem. Other than wrapping the exhaust, I can't have much control over that.
I can put together an aluminum 3.5" OD intake with new mandrel bends for around $50 and use my existing silicone couplers which is my backup plan.
Old 01-02-2016, 11:03 AM
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Went nice and small on the hotside. I see no reason to go over 2.5" on the cold side. I used 3" as well just for ease of install. Can't see a setup like yours benefiting at all from 3.5" piping. Some baby 2.5" piping on there would follow the "sleeper" look.

You can get a 3" alum U bend for $20 shipped, I never had an easy way to weld alum so I went with mild steel.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mandrel-Bend...BTvKjs&vxp=mtr
Old 01-02-2016, 11:29 AM
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Forcefed86, you got me thinking. I could use the other half of the 3" cast elbow for the outlet and point it directly at the TB. That way I could do the rest of the intake tube with a single 3" 90 elbow. Thanks for your input.
Old 01-02-2016, 11:39 AM
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In other news...I found a vintage 60's beer cooler I am going to use for the A2W ice tank mounted in the trunk. I may even thhrow a drink or two in it to pull out after a run.
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I'll probably use a rule pump, either 1500 or 2000. I just saw a test with a "seaflo" which can be had even cheaper so there's another candidate. I am open to suggestions for the IC pump.
Got the idea from CameronVic's igloo cooler but I wanted to keep the period correct look when the trunk is open.
Old 01-04-2016, 04:20 PM
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Speedway doublepass aluminum radiator is here. It will be painted black for the install.
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Just need to figure out how to mount it about 3 inches forward of the stock position to clear the puller fan.
Old 01-04-2016, 04:26 PM
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First attempt at the wastegate placement was a minor fail. Front tire hit the wastegate at full lock.
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Gonna need to add a bend to the wastegate stub for clearance. But it comes off the merge pipe at a decent enough location that it should get adequate priority from the crossovers. Now I just need to make it clear the tire.

Last edited by Guard dog; 01-04-2016 at 06:49 PM.
Old 01-06-2016, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Guard dog
Picked up a horse blanket front seat cover and found some NOS original '60s era vent visors. Both stylish as well as functional.
Where did you get the seat cover from? is it a pretty good fit? My '73 needs a cover. Glad to see another moor door Nova! Keep the updating coming!

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Old 01-06-2016, 03:44 PM
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Seat cover was an ebay find: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Truck-Bench-...-/170544462994

It is a generic fit for a truck bench seat. It comes with a bunch of string to tie up the cover in sections. It looks good from ten feet lol, but its cheap and durable.
Old 01-08-2016, 12:16 AM
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Found a home for the wastegate. It clears the front tire at full lock now.
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Old 01-09-2016, 04:02 PM
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Cars looking good man. It suck that it was such a hack from the beginning, at least now it'll be how you want it.


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