Project Thunderturd - A Sloppy Inspired Creation
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That's essentially what I'm doing, it's just really tedious. There are a couple pinouts I'm not sure of, but I'm sure I can find the answer. I've just been super busy and haven't have a lot of time to sit down and research. It's coming along though, slow but sure.
So I couldn't find an adapter that had a restrictor for the turbo oil feed that fit the oil pan. The stuff I had ordered was too short, so I decided to make my own from the factory bypass. I just drilled a 0.035" hole in the bypass and made some 1/8" NPT threads in the factory piece.
Just FYI on a journal bearing 78/75 style turbo you are using you don't want a restrictor (esp that small of a restrictor) in the feed line. Unrestricted -4 (1/4") is the norm and what should be used to keep the bearing lubricated. If your drain isn't up to snuff and the turbo smokes you should address the drain. Not restrict the feeds as many do. Restricted feeds are for ball bearing turbos in most cases.
Good luck!
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Looks good!
Just FYI on a journal bearing 78/75 style turbo you are using you don't want a restrictor (esp that small of a restrictor) in the feed line. Unrestricted -4 (1/4") is the norm and what should be used to keep the bearing lubricated. If your drain isn't up to snuff and the turbo smokes you should address the drain. Not restrict the feeds as many do. Restricted feeds are for ball bearing turbos in most cases.
Good luck!
Just FYI on a journal bearing 78/75 style turbo you are using you don't want a restrictor (esp that small of a restrictor) in the feed line. Unrestricted -4 (1/4") is the norm and what should be used to keep the bearing lubricated. If your drain isn't up to snuff and the turbo smokes you should address the drain. Not restrict the feeds as many do. Restricted feeds are for ball bearing turbos in most cases.
Good luck!
Anyone else have any input on this?
Unless you’re running the DOD high volume pumps with blocked ports, I don’t see an LS as having oil pressure much over the norm? Even so I’ve used the DOD pump and seen 120+psi of oil pressure and had zero issues with an AN4 supply and ¾ drain.
No offense to ON3 but I would take advise from actual journal bearing turbo manufacturers over the suppliers of a china product that have no input on turbo design/requirements. Because a restrictor stopped a customer’s smoking turbo with an improperly sized/routed drain line, that doesn’t make it right. I’m going off typical journal bearing manufacturer requirements. Garrett, BW, Turbonetics, Holset, Precision etc. I’m not saying the turbo will instantly explode but it’s not a good idea in general to limit the feed. 90% of the builds I’ve seen with smoking issues don’t use manufacturer recommended drain sizes. .035 feed is ridiculous for a journal bearing IMO.
There is an oil flow rate that should be met at idle and WOT. Typically 2 liters/min at idle and 3 liters/min under load. Thats not happening with a .035 restrictor.
Straight from Holset FRM.
Attached doc straight from Turbonetics...
No offense to ON3 but I would take advise from actual journal bearing turbo manufacturers over the suppliers of a china product that have no input on turbo design/requirements. Because a restrictor stopped a customer’s smoking turbo with an improperly sized/routed drain line, that doesn’t make it right. I’m going off typical journal bearing manufacturer requirements. Garrett, BW, Turbonetics, Holset, Precision etc. I’m not saying the turbo will instantly explode but it’s not a good idea in general to limit the feed. 90% of the builds I’ve seen with smoking issues don’t use manufacturer recommended drain sizes. .035 feed is ridiculous for a journal bearing IMO.
There is an oil flow rate that should be met at idle and WOT. Typically 2 liters/min at idle and 3 liters/min under load. Thats not happening with a .035 restrictor.
Straight from Holset FRM.
Installation Data
1. Mount the turbocharger on the turbine inlet flange. All other connections must be flexible and heavy pipework
should be supported. Always pre-lube with clean engine oil.
2. Always position the bearing housing so that the oil drain is at the bottom and kept within 22° of the vertical centre
line when installed on the engine.
3. Oil should be filtered below 15/20 microns. The oil quality must be as specified by the engine manufacturer.
e.g. API - CD (MIL - L - 2104C). Improvement in life can be obtained by using super high performance diesel
(SPHD) oils, particularly where extended oil drain periods are used.
4. Oil pressure must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to
turbocharger bearing system from lack of lubrication.
5. The minimum oil pressure, when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa [2.0 kgf/cm2, 30 lbf/in2] and pressures up
to 415 kPa [4.0 kgf/cm2, 60 lb/in2] are satisfactory. Under idling conditions the pressure should not fall below 70 kPa
[0.7 kgf/cm2. 10lbf/in2].
6. The oil inlet pipe should be 9.5 mm [0.375 in.] bore minimum and the oil drain pipe should be 19 mm [0.75 in.] bore
minimum. The oil must drain downwards by gravity from the turbocharger into the engine under all operating
conditions.
Normal oil temperature is 95+/-5°C (203+/-9°F). It should not exceed 120°C (248°F) under any operating condition.
11. Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.
15. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum torque speed.
1. Mount the turbocharger on the turbine inlet flange. All other connections must be flexible and heavy pipework
should be supported. Always pre-lube with clean engine oil.
2. Always position the bearing housing so that the oil drain is at the bottom and kept within 22° of the vertical centre
line when installed on the engine.
3. Oil should be filtered below 15/20 microns. The oil quality must be as specified by the engine manufacturer.
e.g. API - CD (MIL - L - 2104C). Improvement in life can be obtained by using super high performance diesel
(SPHD) oils, particularly where extended oil drain periods are used.
4. Oil pressure must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to
turbocharger bearing system from lack of lubrication.
5. The minimum oil pressure, when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa [2.0 kgf/cm2, 30 lbf/in2] and pressures up
to 415 kPa [4.0 kgf/cm2, 60 lb/in2] are satisfactory. Under idling conditions the pressure should not fall below 70 kPa
[0.7 kgf/cm2. 10lbf/in2].
6. The oil inlet pipe should be 9.5 mm [0.375 in.] bore minimum and the oil drain pipe should be 19 mm [0.75 in.] bore
minimum. The oil must drain downwards by gravity from the turbocharger into the engine under all operating
conditions.
Normal oil temperature is 95+/-5°C (203+/-9°F). It should not exceed 120°C (248°F) under any operating condition.
11. Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.
15. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum torque speed.
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Newport News, VA
Unless you’re running the DOD high volume pumps with blocked ports, I don’t see an LS as having oil pressure much over the norm? Even so I’ve used the DOD pump and seen 120+psi of oil pressure and had zero issues with an AN4 supply and ¾ drain.
No offense to ON3 but I would take advise from actual journal bearing turbo manufacturers over the suppliers of a china product that have no input on turbo design/requirements. Because a restrictor stopped a customer’s smoking turbo with an improperly sized/routed drain line, that doesn’t make it right. I’m going off typical journal bearing manufacturer requirements. Garrett, BW, Turbonetics, Holset, Precision etc. I’m not saying the turbo will instantly explode but it’s not a good idea in general to limit the feed. 90% of the builds I’ve seen with smoking issues don’t use manufacturer recommended drain sizes. .035 feed is ridiculous for a journal bearing IMO.
There is an oil flow rate that should be met at idle and WOT. Typically 2 liters/min at idle and 3 liters/min under load. Thats not happening with a .035 restrictor.
Straight from Holset FRM.
Attached doc straight from Turbonetics...
No offense to ON3 but I would take advise from actual journal bearing turbo manufacturers over the suppliers of a china product that have no input on turbo design/requirements. Because a restrictor stopped a customer’s smoking turbo with an improperly sized/routed drain line, that doesn’t make it right. I’m going off typical journal bearing manufacturer requirements. Garrett, BW, Turbonetics, Holset, Precision etc. I’m not saying the turbo will instantly explode but it’s not a good idea in general to limit the feed. 90% of the builds I’ve seen with smoking issues don’t use manufacturer recommended drain sizes. .035 feed is ridiculous for a journal bearing IMO.
There is an oil flow rate that should be met at idle and WOT. Typically 2 liters/min at idle and 3 liters/min under load. Thats not happening with a .035 restrictor.
Straight from Holset FRM.
Attached doc straight from Turbonetics...
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
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I am kinda glad I read this also. I just fired my motor this weekend and I am running a 78/75. I bought the .035 restrictor from ON3 as like stated about it says to run the turbo with it. Now I am really worried about it burning up.
I am in between as the supply that came with my original kit had no restrictor but the website says to use one.
I am in between as the supply that came with my original kit had no restrictor but the website says to use one.
It's not going to instantly burn up the turbo. As mentioned lots of people do it. That doesn't make it an optimal setup or the best way to do it IMO. The china journal bearing clones aren't going to magically need less oil than say a Garrett.
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From: Newport News, VA
Well, after a really hectic and busy summer, I'm finally getting back to it. The project hasn't died.
I'm on the final bits of the wiring and had some questions regarding it.
Just to reiterate it's an 03 DWB 5.3 from a Tahoe and swapped to a 4L80E.
C1 Connector (Blue)
Pin 58 - Serial Data Connection - This goes to OBD2 Port, correct?
Pin 39 Start Enable - Does this go to the ignition switch or the starter relay
C2 Connector (Green)
Pin 10 - Engine speed - Tachometer signal wire?
Pin 50 - VSS - Speedometer signal wire?
Pin 46 - Check engine light wire?
Pin 9 - Starter Relay - Same as Pin 39 on C1, Does this go to ignition switch or relay? I"m thinking this one is to the relay and the one on C1 goes to the ignition switch.
Pin 55 - Crank Voltage - Just hook this up to the 12v ON and RUN power source?
Also, there is a blue wire from the alternator harness, not sure where it went. Came from the C100 connector
And just to verify, all pink wires are key ON and Start 12v and orange wires are 12v all the time.
I'm on the final bits of the wiring and had some questions regarding it.
Just to reiterate it's an 03 DWB 5.3 from a Tahoe and swapped to a 4L80E.
C1 Connector (Blue)
Pin 58 - Serial Data Connection - This goes to OBD2 Port, correct?
Pin 39 Start Enable - Does this go to the ignition switch or the starter relay
C2 Connector (Green)
Pin 10 - Engine speed - Tachometer signal wire?
Pin 50 - VSS - Speedometer signal wire?
Pin 46 - Check engine light wire?
Pin 9 - Starter Relay - Same as Pin 39 on C1, Does this go to ignition switch or relay? I"m thinking this one is to the relay and the one on C1 goes to the ignition switch.
Pin 55 - Crank Voltage - Just hook this up to the 12v ON and RUN power source?
Also, there is a blue wire from the alternator harness, not sure where it went. Came from the C100 connector
And just to verify, all pink wires are key ON and Start 12v and orange wires are 12v all the time.
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Finally making progress again. I wasn't sure where to put the wastegate and after a debating it a little while, I came up with what I have here. I was pretty limited with space, or else I would have put it in the merge.
Also wrapped everything to try and keep underhood temps down. Note: Wear a long sleeve shirt if you do this. My forearms are itching like crazy!
Also wrapped everything to try and keep underhood temps down. Note: Wear a long sleeve shirt if you do this. My forearms are itching like crazy!
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So after spending some crazy hours at work and going out of the country for work, I've got some progress done to the car. Finished up the cold side today and had to change the turbo feed to also accomodate an oil pressure sending unit for my gauge setup. Also picked up some sheet metal for my cluster setup.
Also, as some of you may have seen on the sloppy page, I modified a pair of crimper/cutters to make the bead on the IC piping.
Tomorrow I plan on mounting the trans cooler and running the lines and finish up some wiring.
Also, as some of you may have seen on the sloppy page, I modified a pair of crimper/cutters to make the bead on the IC piping.
Tomorrow I plan on mounting the trans cooler and running the lines and finish up some wiring.
interesting. Did you have to grind down the nipple on the inside for it to form correctly? or just cut the tip off and go to down?
Looks like it would work. Ive seen the washer welded to the locking pliers before. Also you can prob get those cutters cheaper at harbor freight as thats where mine is from.
That pipe cut tho is real rough lol... what did you cut that with? lol... or is that from the pliers...
Looks like it would work. Ive seen the washer welded to the locking pliers before. Also you can prob get those cutters cheaper at harbor freight as thats where mine is from.
That pipe cut tho is real rough lol... what did you cut that with? lol... or is that from the pliers...
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Looks like it would work. Ive seen the washer welded to the locking pliers before. Also you can prob get those cutters cheaper at harbor freight as thats where mine is from.
That pipe cut tho is real rough lol... what did you cut that with? lol... or is that from the pliers...
That pipe cut tho is real rough lol... what did you cut that with? lol... or is that from the pliers...
Awesome build thread, much appreciated! i just picked up a '85 dirty burdy.
Can you give me more details on the k-member and mounts used please. Did you use AJE 1979-2004 mustang k-member? or the complete kit like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aje-m33175
Can you give me more details on the k-member and mounts used please. Did you use AJE 1979-2004 mustang k-member? or the complete kit like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aje-m33175
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Awesome build thread, much appreciated! i just picked up a '85 dirty burdy.
Can you give me more details on the k-member and mounts used please. Did you use AJE 1979-2004 mustang k-member? or the complete kit like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aje-m33175
Can you give me more details on the k-member and mounts used please. Did you use AJE 1979-2004 mustang k-member? or the complete kit like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aje-m33175
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Sorry to all that have been following about updates. Taking pictures of hundreds of wires would be quite boring. But now, here we are. It's up and running. Literally first turn of the key it fired up. I can't thank Denmah enough for all of the information he's put out plus taking the time to do tuning schools.
This is literally the first time I've ever done an injected car, the first forced induction car, and my first motor swap. To have it start up on the first attempt just blew my mind. I had a massive vacuum leak to begin with as you can tell from the whistle on the first startup. Also the gas pedal wasn't working.
I fixed the vacuum leak and then the car would start and die immediately. I racked my brain and went over the tune file as well as put in some time on the Google. Finally have a start and idle and the gas pedal works!
That's it for today. Here's the videos!
This is literally the first time I've ever done an injected car, the first forced induction car, and my first motor swap. To have it start up on the first attempt just blew my mind. I had a massive vacuum leak to begin with as you can tell from the whistle on the first startup. Also the gas pedal wasn't working.
I fixed the vacuum leak and then the car would start and die immediately. I racked my brain and went over the tune file as well as put in some time on the Google. Finally have a start and idle and the gas pedal works!
That's it for today. Here's the videos!
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The K member, for the price, was a no brainer though. < $500 for everything, including shipping. Hell, the torque converter was almost double that.