LSA heads...can the chambers be opened up...?
I'd cut around the valves a bit to unshroud them, machine the chamers and perform the smoothing and see if you can get the chamber volume you need without a thick gasket and killing the quench which also hurts mixture being homogenous and burning better
with flat top or dished pistons the detonation is reduced and you can still tolerate high boost with 10-1 with the right timing and the engine will be very responsive.
good luck!
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I have E85 stations all over my local area. If I go with 10.5:1 compression and I am forced to use 93 octane because I can't make it to an E85 station......can I put in enough to get me where I need to go and not hurt the engine in any way whatsoever, if i drive casual and stay out of boost....?
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I have E85 stations all over my local area. If I go with 10.5:1 compression and I am forced to use 93 octane because I can't make it to an E85 station......can I put in enough to get me where I need to go and not hurt the engine in any way whatsoever, if i drive casual and stay out of boost....?
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I have E85 stations all over my local area. If I go with 10.5:1 compression and I am forced to use 93 octane because I can't make it to an E85 station......can I put in enough to get me where I need to go and not hurt the engine in any way whatsoever, if i drive casual and stay out of boost....?
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don't do this. your engine and wallet with thank you.
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What I was wondering is...since the boost can still go up to 18-20psi can I damage my engine by going too high in boost with 93 octane...?
And I'm considering the MS3-Pro Engine management System....it does some crazy stuff. I have a thread started about it.
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You can run a thicker HG. Just run one that’s thick enough to do away with quench all together. There is a go-no-go zone for quench. As long as you are clear of the “danger zone” quench wise you’re fine.
You can run a thicker HG. Just run one that’s thick enough to do away with quench all together. There is a go-no-go zone for quench. As long as you are clear of the “danger zone” quench wise you’re fine.
Where is the quench area...?
EDIT.....found it. Now I get what quench area is.....
Basically those two FLAT areas help guide the compressed air down into the center area for a more complete burn.....
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You can run a thicker HG. Just run one that’s thick enough to do away with quench all together. There is a go-no-go zone for quench. As long as you are clear of the “danger zone” quench wise you’re fine.
I ran an 8.6:1 5.3 LS. Was a little lazy out of boost, but I was never out of boost at the track. Once I hit the trans. brake I was at 10-25lbs fast and in boost the whole run. Plenty of power for cruising around town IMO and clicked of 8 sec ¼ miles @ 3000ish lbs.
Pretty common rule is you give up roughly 4% NA HP for each point of compression lost. That’s 16 crank HP on a 400 CHP engine going from 10:1 to 9:1. Yet I always hear people say how much of a “dog” low compression motors are.
Personally I don’t think I’d even notice 16 crank HP difference. And the trade off to run a ton more boost on a larger CC is well worth it IMO. I ran an 8.6:1 5.3 LS. Was a little lazy out of boost, but I was never out of boost at the track. Once I hit the trans. brake I was at 10-25lbs fast and in boost the whole run. Plenty of power for cruising around town IMO and clicked of 8 sec ¼ miles @ 3000ish lbs.
Pretty common rule is you give up roughly 4% NA HP for each point of compression lost. That’s 16 crank HP on a 400 CHP engine going from 10:1 to 9:1. Yet I always hear people say how much of a “dog” low compression motors are.
Personally I don’t think I’d even notice 16 crank HP difference. And the trade off to run a ton more boost on a larger CC is well worth it IMO.
.My only reservation is if I don't like the turbo deal (though not likely), Ive ruined a perfectly good set of heads for NA, IF I "soften" the CCs. On the other hand , if I just do gaskets, and the MLS gasket will hold the boost in at .098 with studs, and if that gets me outside the no-go window, Its just whatever the head gaskets costs and no harm-no foul to go back NA.
The biggest thing that is holding me back from breaking into the long block, for any reason other than a cam swap, is the stock pistons and rods Im running. I don't really want to open the engine up till Im ready to put good parts in the bottom end. My mindset at this point is to stay in the guidelines of what the owner a stock Vette or Camaro with an LS3 can go buy off the shelf for boost, ie 6 to 8 lbs . If Im happy with the power I get with that, Im done. If I crave more, at some point down the road I can put some good parts in the bottom end and go for more boost, but at least I would have gotten my feet wet to the whole forced induction thing with the low boost set-up.
What would you do, knowing my mindset on this build? Would you get thick gaskets to open the tune window and maybe throw a few more LBS at the stock parts, or stay in the lower boost window and keep the heads sealed till Im ready and willing to forge the bottom end ?
OP, man , Im sorry about the hijak
. wasn't even thinking about anything but what I have going on. Forcefed86, thanks for the input. Do you think I can live with 93 on the factory LS3 crate engine with an LS9 cam and the water/meth ? answer me that, and I will get off the OPs thread. Thanks! 










