There is not a lot of info out there about this, so I decided to do it and post about it. These are 243 heads that I am going to be using on my top dragster engine. I previously had a set of 317s that I filled solid with machinist grout and aluminum shavings. I decided that I would rather have water in the heads and need a water temp reading for my ms3 gold. I don't plan to circulate water through them, just going to use an expansion tank with -12 AN lines to each head. I can set up a remote pump if I need to but I don't think I am going to see much over 190degrees. This is a filled 365"LS2 block K1 crank,k1 rods, billet main girdle, arp studs top and bottom. 16 fuel injectors (8-80s & 8-225s) straight methanol. Twin s369sx-e turbos. Anyways, these heads weld great. I got them as clean as I could and started welding a little at a time. Skipping all around from head to head. I took about 6 hours letting them cool for 20-30 min. At a time over 2 days. I am almost done. I will finish this last hole and then let them sit over night. I will weld the rest of the AN fittings in tomorrow. These fittings from Vibrant fit the factory freeze plug holes perfectly. I will then take these to have them milled back just enough to square up the decks. Then they are going to get the full PRC CNC'd treatment with Ferrea stainless intakes and inconel ex. And BTR .660" duel spring kit with all TI hardware.

 

Very nice! But why not circulate water through the heads? It wouldn't take much flow and I don't see it hurting anything?

 

I am trying to keep it simple. I am not running any accessories except an Aeromotive belt drive fuel pump. The car has to weigh 1650lbs so if I am a little light, I may set up a little belt driven water pump.

 

Damn you went all in, awesome setup

 

What ECU are you using for the dual injector methanol set up?


Never mind, just saw MS3 gold box.

 

Awesome! I thought about doing this but i was going to get a buddy to water jet some little pieces to fill most of the hole making it easier to weld.

 

It might make it a little easier. I used 200amps with some good cleaning action and laid beads around the edges of the holes. Then I would back off the heat and work around a little at a time to close them up. The little holes can be welded up in about 10 seconds. I used 1/8" rod and worked fast! I wasn't going for pretty I just wanted good penetration and to get the impurities out. After I get them milled, I will pressure test them. If needed I can re weld and re mill or put a KREEM gas tank coating in them to seal them.

 

So just so everyone knows, you did this to strengthen the heads a little bit? To reduce lifting?

 

to hold the water in the head.

 

Kind of both. Mainly I do not any chance of water getting on the tires at 200+mph.

 

Pretty cool, thanks for sharing man!

 

Thanks!

 

Do you think you could dry deck a stock aluminum block with this technique? I would think aluminum plugs would be helpful for that and not need welding if they were machined perfectly? Thoughts?
A home dry decked 4 bolt aluminum block would be pretty cool.

 

It would be tuff to circulate water because there is no cross over in the rear. The problem with machine fit pieces is that the aluminum grows with heat and the have a chance of moving around. Also the stock aluminum blocks are really weak in the upper cylinder sleeves. This is why I just filled mine to the deck. If you could get the circulation figured out, you could do a reverse half fill by putting salt in the block half way up then putting hard block in. Once it cures (with heads and mains torqued) you can rinse out the salt from under the hard block. I just can't see a need for this tho. If it a race only set up do what I did. If it is a street car, go iron block. There are plenty of guys making good power on 4 bolts without pushing water. Chris Bisher TT s10 is my hero. 8.19 on a stock 5.3 with243 heads! Silver82 on here I think.

 

I appreciate the input. Just spitballing and trying to think outside the box. Lots of guys driving on half filled blocks but I would prefer to have the increased stability at the top of the deck to prevent lifting heads and the ability to keep the oil cool with water circulating through the lower block. Just wondering if a poor man's dry deck block and heads would be feasible. That would keep heads stable under tons of boost and still be street diving friendly with water flowing through the block and heads, just not through the deck. Getting the water to flow through the block shouldn't be a big deal with a couple well placed water ports.
It may not be feasible but I'm intrigued because is sounds possible.

 

I got them all welded up except for the steam ports. Not sure what I want to do there yet. I am open to suggestions.

 

i personally think you will be ok with out water anywhere in the engine

 

I agree. The only concern is the stock castings getting hot spots and potential for cracking. Also I need a water temp sensor for my efi controller. I probably could have used oil temp but this kills 2 birds with 1 stone.

 

There you go. 243 heads with solid decks. Now they are going to get CNC'd.

 

Those turned out great!