How Reliable is Your Turbo Setup?
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2015
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How Reliable is Your Turbo Setup? So I've got the itch to get into the FI world and have some questions. First of my car is 02 z28 6spd,stock motor,LT's and a dyno tune is it. This car is strickly for fun on the weekends just cruise,go to drag strip (spectate),car shows ect. My first question is how reliable can a turbo setup,say 5-600whp range be? The only 2 friends I know that have/had turbo setups are saying dont do it. Keep in mind one is a 600whp neon and the other a stock block fox body. I dont want to have to constantly be retuning the car,i want to be able to fire it up and go 400 miles a weekend if i please. Is this an unattainable goal? Input on the reliabilty of first hand turbo LS owners would be awesome. Brings me to my next question. I want to keep my a/c,can this be done with truck manifolds? Ultimately whichever direction i go will not be until probably next year,just trying to get some feed back before i make a final desicion. Opinions,facts would be greatly appriciated.
Good questions. For a place to start, look up Stock48's posts regarding his truck. He drives it between California and Colorado. To put it in simple terms, it's a very fast truck with accessories and it has been 9's. Pretty reliable, too. He makes it look easy, your experience may vary, but he's put together many good combinations to emulate.
Obviously look at SloppyMechanics builds as well.
Obviously look at SloppyMechanics builds as well.
If your tune is good from the start your goals are easily attainable. There is a reason all the big HP new cars are forced induction. A little boost on a strong foundation nets power and reliability. My wife drives my Impala that has a mild Stock48 cam and thats pretty much it. It's like a new Silverado until you try to pass someone.
I've put right at 10,000 miles on my truck since the build last winter. I drive it nearly every day, everywhere I need to go.
So far, I've
- Changed the oil
- Tightened exhaust manifold bolts
- Had my 4L80E rebuilt since it was an abused junkyard unit and 2nd gear failed.
That's it. This thing is stupid fast on 16psi and idles at 650rpm. I couldn't be happier with the power and reliability.
So far, I've
- Changed the oil
- Tightened exhaust manifold bolts
- Had my 4L80E rebuilt since it was an abused junkyard unit and 2nd gear failed.
That's it. This thing is stupid fast on 16psi and idles at 650rpm. I couldn't be happier with the power and reliability.
My car put down 850 and the only reason I wouldn't be able to drive it across the country is both of my fuel pumps are on at the same time and I was told not to drive it more then an hour or so it my fuel will get hot. Otherwise it has been super reliable.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2015
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From what I've read it looks like i would be able to get away with 1 fuel pump based on the power level im looking at 5-600 range. I believe the 255 with handle 500,but that would be maxed so 1 450 would get it. Am i correct on that? Also has anyone built a truck manifold system and retained the a/c?
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10 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 176
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From: Seattle
No reason that a turbo build can't be made reliable. In fact I prefer them because at most part throttle situations (90% of your driving) the drivetrain sees no added strain and the car behaves like stock.
My Cutlass had a 150k+ junkyard motor on it, I was running all ebay turbo parts and made my turbo log out of sewer pipe. The car made over 600HP, I drove it like I stole it, and I would not have hesitated to drive it anywhere I wanted.
I was running a single GSL392 (inline 255) fuel pump with no indication of running out of fuel. I was told that people push the 255 to 650 WHP no problem.
I think that you will find there is a big difference between the LSX platform and a neon or SBF, but in either case the foundation is a good tune.
My Cutlass had a 150k+ junkyard motor on it, I was running all ebay turbo parts and made my turbo log out of sewer pipe. The car made over 600HP, I drove it like I stole it, and I would not have hesitated to drive it anywhere I wanted.
I was running a single GSL392 (inline 255) fuel pump with no indication of running out of fuel. I was told that people push the 255 to 650 WHP no problem.
I think that you will find there is a big difference between the LSX platform and a neon or SBF, but in either case the foundation is a good tune.
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TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,177
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From: Florida
i had a single turbo 4.8 t56 s10. i drove it everywhere and put a ton of miles on it with no issues and i abused it pretty good.
i ended up hitting a wall with the truck so i threw it away and put the motor with a new twin turbo kit in a full size and now im driving that around. It does fine and i can drive it anywhere. it was my only car for the few months i had to rebuild my blown up evo. the 4.8 has been together and running in my possession for about 3 years now, always boosted. It started as an iron block junkyard 100k+ motor, i took all the guts out and put them in a used L33 block, i reused everything, bearings, gaskets, bolts, even the head gaskets, and the motor is still unopened from that. I did zero machine work and minimal prep and cleaning. i did put ebay head studs in and good valve springs.
my opinion is its all gonna be how you build it/who works on it. guys like denmah have the skills to make a zero dollar build reliable. Ive met some people that can throw 100k at something and its still an unreliable turd.
i ended up hitting a wall with the truck so i threw it away and put the motor with a new twin turbo kit in a full size and now im driving that around. It does fine and i can drive it anywhere. it was my only car for the few months i had to rebuild my blown up evo. the 4.8 has been together and running in my possession for about 3 years now, always boosted. It started as an iron block junkyard 100k+ motor, i took all the guts out and put them in a used L33 block, i reused everything, bearings, gaskets, bolts, even the head gaskets, and the motor is still unopened from that. I did zero machine work and minimal prep and cleaning. i did put ebay head studs in and good valve springs.
my opinion is its all gonna be how you build it/who works on it. guys like denmah have the skills to make a zero dollar build reliable. Ive met some people that can throw 100k at something and its still an unreliable turd.
From what I've read it looks like i would be able to get away with 1 fuel pump based on the power level im looking at 5-600 range. I believe the 255 with handle 500,but that would be maxed so 1 450 would get it. Am i correct on that? Also has anyone built a truck manifold system and retained the a/c?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2015
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Thanks for the awesome feedback fellas! It happened to be exactly what i wanted to hear. Im in no hurry to get a turbo on it seeing as i just bought it in december,so while i enjoy it alittle more i'll continue doing my research and start peicing together parts for the build. I'm sure I will have more questions in the future!
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
So I've got the itch to get into the FI world and have some questions. First of my car is 02 z28 6spd,stock motor,LT's and a dyno tune is it. This car is strickly for fun on the weekends just cruise,go to drag strip (spectate),car shows ect. My first question is how reliable can a turbo setup,say 5-600whp range be? The only 2 friends I know that have/had turbo setups are saying dont do it. Keep in mind one is a 600whp neon and the other a stock block fox body. I dont want to have to constantly be retuning the car,i want to be able to fire it up and go 400 miles a weekend if i please. Is this an unattainable goal? Input on the reliabilty of first hand turbo LS owners would be awesome. Brings me to my next question. I want to keep my a/c,can this be done with truck manifolds? Ultimately whichever direction i go will not be until probably next year,just trying to get some feed back before i make a final desicion. Opinions,facts would be greatly appriciated.
It isnt rocket science.
Any problems are usually bad install, bad tuning...bad person doing it, at least certainly at the sort of level you're talking about.
Of course how well it can all be done...then comes down to your budget.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2014
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Reliability/Fast/Not crazy expensive >You can only ever have 2 out of these 3.
You can for sure make it reliable at that power level. But to make it reliable, you need to be able to handle the reality that you will be spending quite a bit. If reliability is more important to you than cost, then its only a matter of picking a forged setup with a appropriate sized turbo, fuel system, supporting mods, and tune.
Many go with a 5.3 and add a turbo because it is cheap. It can be made somewhat reliable, but the reality is that your still on borrowed time and eventually it will not last, but another 5.3 can be found for about $700-$800 a lot of places.
If you want it to last, build the motor, get the correct supporting mods, and a good tune. Should last a VERY long time reliably at 600 to the wheels. It won't be cheap though, but so far you have not voiced your concern on cost. That's what stops many from going reliable.
You can for sure make it reliable at that power level. But to make it reliable, you need to be able to handle the reality that you will be spending quite a bit. If reliability is more important to you than cost, then its only a matter of picking a forged setup with a appropriate sized turbo, fuel system, supporting mods, and tune.
Many go with a 5.3 and add a turbo because it is cheap. It can be made somewhat reliable, but the reality is that your still on borrowed time and eventually it will not last, but another 5.3 can be found for about $700-$800 a lot of places.
If you want it to last, build the motor, get the correct supporting mods, and a good tune. Should last a VERY long time reliably at 600 to the wheels. It won't be cheap though, but so far you have not voiced your concern on cost. That's what stops many from going reliable.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 358
Likes: 1
Reliability/Fast/Not crazy expensive >You can only ever have 2 out of these 3.
You can for sure make it reliable at that power level. But to make it reliable, you need to be able to handle the reality that you will be spending quite a bit. If reliability is more important to you than cost, then its only a matter of picking a forged setup with a appropriate sized turbo, fuel system, supporting mods, and tune.
Many go with a 5.3 and add a turbo because it is cheap. It can be made somewhat reliable, but the reality is that your still on borrowed time and eventually it will not last, but another 5.3 can be found for about $700-$800 a lot of places.
If you want it to last, build the motor, get the correct supporting mods, and a good tune. Should last a VERY long time reliably at 600 to the wheels. It won't be cheap though, but so far you have not voiced your concern on cost. That's what stops many from going reliable.
You can for sure make it reliable at that power level. But to make it reliable, you need to be able to handle the reality that you will be spending quite a bit. If reliability is more important to you than cost, then its only a matter of picking a forged setup with a appropriate sized turbo, fuel system, supporting mods, and tune.
Many go with a 5.3 and add a turbo because it is cheap. It can be made somewhat reliable, but the reality is that your still on borrowed time and eventually it will not last, but another 5.3 can be found for about $700-$800 a lot of places.
If you want it to last, build the motor, get the correct supporting mods, and a good tune. Should last a VERY long time reliably at 600 to the wheels. It won't be cheap though, but so far you have not voiced your concern on cost. That's what stops many from going reliable.
here are some of the headaches and what to expect.
1. car was built and worked very well with no issues for first 2 years
2. ttix manifold rear mounting flange cracked and had to be replaced (ttix was great, price was 600 for the manifold). tough job as no clearance but can be performed with basic hand tools.
3. AC failed, a big issue with the ttix and C5 to replace the compressor
4. went from stick to auto to beef up the drivetrainn and go from 3.9 gears to 3.42 (great mod!)
5. car would run hot with AC on in hot weather above 95 deg. Went to dewitts dual fans to replace the stocker and B&M tranny cooler and the car works fine in the heat. even with the big after market dewitts radiator stop and go traffic was too much for the factory fans to pull through the much thicker cooling stack with intercooler, and front mount tranny cooler (want to move that one to the side pods in front, but clearance is tight with the ttix).
6. this car is a tiger shark with the stinger hood so it does get a bit better airflow to the intercooler and rad, the turbo cars crank MUCHO heat when stuck in traffic with the AC on.
overall, the turbo kit has been great and I'm not afraid to crooze relaibly at 600 or turn it up for 800 *drag radials needed!!*
turbos get a bad rap for reliability. just ask a trucker!! don't see to many of them without one and they do pretty well.
Swap out your return line for a -10 and that should take care of heat related problems that occur during long distance trips. Bob
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Personally I'd prefer to have both pumps running all the time, unless you have a good air/fuel gauge within eye's sight to alert you in case the Hobbs switch fails. Bob
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9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
What pumps ?
And as always, how hot is your fuel getting ?
I can easily drive for around 4 hours ( ie until tank runs out ) with my 044's, never any problems.
If fuel temp actually is an issue, just add a fuel cooler.
I am running dual Walboro 340s.