1986 Ford LTD/L92/BW S-480/Holley EFI Street Car
07-05-2016, 09:57 AM
#101
First off, the 275s look way better. Secondly, you might want for look up the setup on the 3.0 car. I think he may have had a shot of nitrous on the hit (I could be wrong), not that you should need it. I'm sure you'll figure it out. No sure how you have it set up now, but it seems some successful guys leave all the timing in until roughly 200 rpms before hitting the limiter and then drop it. Also, some leave n/a timing until 3-5 psi.
07-05-2016, 10:38 AM
#102
I agree, the 275's really fill out the fenders. I tried them initially on my 10" wide wheels, but they scrubbed pretty bad.
I revisited the 3.0 build and it was a 5.3 w/ a triple 12 cam, S476, 4L80, 3.15's on 235 drag radials. I think he only had nitrous on v2.0.
I currently have it setup with Denmah's timing table that he always posts, and I made a few changes to it. I'm not sure how different a cathedral port timing graph compares to a rectangular port? I don't think the rectangular ports need as much timing (from what I've read)? I have the two step (set at 3000) and the Holley boost builder turn on when I'm on the foot brake. The boost builder can do a fixed timing and or fixed fuel. I've tried several different settings (35*and 12:5afr, low timing and fat afr). Maybe I'm not giving it enough timing or not taking enough away? Or I don't have the afr correct for either event... I just don't know what to try.
I revisited the 3.0 build and it was a 5.3 w/ a triple 12 cam, S476, 4L80, 3.15's on 235 drag radials. I think he only had nitrous on v2.0.
I currently have it setup with Denmah's timing table that he always posts, and I made a few changes to it. I'm not sure how different a cathedral port timing graph compares to a rectangular port? I don't think the rectangular ports need as much timing (from what I've read)? I have the two step (set at 3000) and the Holley boost builder turn on when I'm on the foot brake. The boost builder can do a fixed timing and or fixed fuel. I've tried several different settings (35*and 12:5afr, low timing and fat afr). Maybe I'm not giving it enough timing or not taking enough away? Or I don't have the afr correct for either event... I just don't know what to try.
07-05-2016, 11:02 AM
#103
where the stall?
I would imagine you ton get much boost at 3k no matter what you do with a 480
Can you raise the RPM activation?
With a manual car, if you dump as much timing as you can and add as much fuel as you can, it will build boost.
Ive heard its different on an auto car, although im not sure how it could be.
I would imagine you ton get much boost at 3k no matter what you do with a 480
Can you raise the RPM activation?
With a manual car, if you dump as much timing as you can and add as much fuel as you can, it will build boost.
Ive heard its different on an auto car, although im not sure how it could be.
07-05-2016, 11:12 AM
#104
If you have the boost builder set to activate with the brake switch only, it's pulling timing as it's trying to spool up. Wire a momentary switch to activate it am retry. That way the timing will follow the main table until you hit the switch (200 rpms before you're limiter) which should help it spool up. Plus, brake pedals don't come up real fast and could cause it to lack timing, run fat etc. until the pedal deactivates. Make sense?
07-05-2016, 11:52 AM
#105
TECH Resident
Glad to see you still at it. Wish I had helpful advice for you, but I don't. Someone will chime in here. I think the boost building strategy is opposite a stick car. But what the hell do I know. Mine is roots blown.
07-05-2016, 12:04 PM
#106
where the stall?
I would imagine you ton get much boost at 3k no matter what you do with a 480
Can you raise the RPM activation?
With a manual car, if you dump as much timing as you can and add as much fuel as you can, it will build boost.
Ive heard its different on an auto car, although im not sure how it could be.
I would imagine you ton get much boost at 3k no matter what you do with a 480
Can you raise the RPM activation?
With a manual car, if you dump as much timing as you can and add as much fuel as you can, it will build boost.
Ive heard its different on an auto car, although im not sure how it could be.
Yes, I can change the RPM on the two step.
If you have the boost builder set to activate with the brake switch only, it's pulling timing as it's trying to spool up. Wire a momentary switch to activate it am retry. That way the timing will follow the main table until you hit the switch (200 rpms before you're limiter) which should help it spool up. Plus, brake pedals don't come up real fast and could cause it to lack timing, run fat etc. until the pedal deactivates. Make sense?
Thanks for the help guys!
07-05-2016, 12:17 PM
#107
An idea might be just a micro switch activated by the brake pedal arm. That way you wont use the brake light switch. Have it adjustable and activate only at the absolute bottom of the pedal travel so as soon as you let off, the switch trips and you're off. Congrats on the little one! Glad all is well.
Last edited by 3 window; 07-05-2016 at 12:41 PM.
07-05-2016, 05:25 PM
#109
TECH Resident
Congrats on your son! 10 weeks early! Wow, he must've been a little one. So glad all turned out well!
My buddy with the LTD LX has his sbf out getting rebuilt and is short on funds. So he has a 2.3l turbo on the stand that he's going to run in it till the sbf is done. Crazy bastard makes me laugh! And your car weight is sounding better and better.
My buddy with the LTD LX has his sbf out getting rebuilt and is short on funds. So he has a 2.3l turbo on the stand that he's going to run in it till the sbf is done. Crazy bastard makes me laugh! And your car weight is sounding better and better.
07-06-2016, 06:59 AM
#110
Congrats on your son! 10 weeks early! Wow, he must've been a little one. So glad all turned out well!
My buddy with the LTD LX has his sbf out getting rebuilt and is short on funds. So he has a 2.3l turbo on the stand that he's going to run in it till the sbf is done. Crazy bastard makes me laugh! And your car weight is sounding better and better.
My buddy with the LTD LX has his sbf out getting rebuilt and is short on funds. So he has a 2.3l turbo on the stand that he's going to run in it till the sbf is done. Crazy bastard makes me laugh! And your car weight is sounding better and better.
I've thought about the 2.3 before, a few people have gone fast with them. There's a few of those motors laying around at my parents house.
After we got home from the hospital last night, I went to the shop and was able to redo the wiring for the two step and boost builder. I now have it turning on with the "ON" button for the cruise control. I was wanting to wire it up with a relay and have the two step turn on with the brake then turn on the three step/boost builder with the cruise button, but I'm out of I/O's on my 8-pin connector of the Dominator.
07-06-2016, 11:56 AM
#112
Well, my thought was to hold the brake to get it up on the converter, then press the button to turn on the 2-step and boost builder. It might be better though to have the brake activate a rev limiter, then turn on the boost builder and another rev limiter with the button?
07-06-2016, 12:34 PM
#113
I'd try your first way first. Get up on the converter, then hit the button. That way the timing will still be on the main table helping you to get up on the converter (because of the engine torque) then at the hit of the button, it'll jerk the timing out.
07-06-2016, 08:42 PM
#114
Well, I just went out and tried it...and holy crap this thing lit off hard! I saw 7psi and a ton of tire smoke!! I set up the boost builder to -5* timing and upped my rev limiter to 2800 I also have it turning on at 1 psi positive pressure. I think I'm headed in the right direction!
07-06-2016, 09:57 PM
#115
well, i just went out and tried it...and holy crap this thing lit off hard! I saw 7psi and a ton of tire smoke!! I set up the boost builder to -5* timing and upped my rev limiter to 2800 i also have it turning on at 1 psi positive pressure. I think i'm headed in the right direction!
07-31-2017, 08:48 AM
#117
I've finally been able to get my car out this year and make some passes. Since last time I've done/added the following: Jakes hard parts for the 80e, D3 trans-brake, mini-tubbed the rear w/ stock style suspension (axle shortened 2" per side), redid the entire hot-side to the turbo (went from dual 44mm gates to a single) and redid the downpipe to 5" transitioning to 4" at the firewall, went from a dual solenoid boost control to a single, and did some cleaning up in the engine bay.
So far I've been a 6.8 @ 99 w/ a 1.54 60' time. That's on 315/35/17 Nitto's, 3# spring in the single 44mm wg, 93 pump gas, and driven about 45 min to the track. Last year the best et I had was 6.5 and best mph of 113, but I was fighting a fuel issue the whole time which turned out to be clogged injectors. I sent them off to Eric Derr and he got me taken care of. Nathaninwa sold me his D3 Brake and has been a great help with any questions I've had, and 3-Window has helped me tremendously in finally getting this thing sorted out. I've got a set of 28/13.50 Hoosier quick time pros, E-85, and turning up the boost for this coming Thursday night test and tune.
So far I've been a 6.8 @ 99 w/ a 1.54 60' time. That's on 315/35/17 Nitto's, 3# spring in the single 44mm wg, 93 pump gas, and driven about 45 min to the track. Last year the best et I had was 6.5 and best mph of 113, but I was fighting a fuel issue the whole time which turned out to be clogged injectors. I sent them off to Eric Derr and he got me taken care of. Nathaninwa sold me his D3 Brake and has been a great help with any questions I've had, and 3-Window has helped me tremendously in finally getting this thing sorted out. I've got a set of 28/13.50 Hoosier quick time pros, E-85, and turning up the boost for this coming Thursday night test and tune.