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Heavy Sedan + Manual trans + turbo 5.3... Can it work?
So it is time to move on from the setup that I'm currently running, and I'm leaning towards a smaller cube turbo setup.
Currently I'm running a 10:1 LS7 with forged pistons and stock rods. 2.9L Whipple 14-15psi on E85. At 4,000lbs the car has gone a best 9.98 @ 146 and trapped a best of 147. The goal is to push even further but I've decided I've pushed the LS7 far enough and fear losing the entire motor if I lean on it even harder.
That brings me to now. I see a lot of success with the iron motors and have dabbled with the idea of forged internals in a 5.3 with a single turbo. I want it to make 150+ mph power but don't want to ruin the fun factor on the street. The manual transmission is going to stay in the car regardless of what I do next.
Any input regarding turbo size and/or if this is even feasible to make work well with the manual transmission?
Why a 5.3 instead of a 6.0 or larger ? Heavy needs all the cubic inches possible to get it moving.
I have considered that as well. I just plan on running quite a bit of boost and don't want to worry about headgasket issues. 6.0 isn't out of the question at all if the added cubes would truly help significantly and not sacrifice durability
6.0 will also open you up to more head choices and 317 heads are common on them, Are you looking at a junk yard type build or full build?
It's hard to beat cubic inches to get something heavy moving, I would also assume more cubic inches and less boost would make the same power and live longer than a smaller engine with higher boost.
As far as the trans goes, If it will hold the power then I don't see a problem. You'll likely give up a little at the strip and you can really nail the shifts. I would think a 800-100hp on the street would be fun with a manual or an auto.
Last edited by LLLosingit; 03-26-2016 at 01:58 AM.
6.0 will also open you up to more head choices and 317 heads are common on them, Are you looking at a junk yard type build or full build?
It's hard to beat cubic inches to get something heavy moving, I would also assume more cubic inches and less boost would make the same power and live longer than a smaller engine with higher boost.
As far as the trans goes, If it will hold the power then I don't see a problem. You'll likely give up a little at the strip and you can really nail the shifts. I would think a 800-100hp on the street would be fun with a manual or an auto.
Im planning on running forged pistons and rods, all arp hardware/studs...etc. i definitely see your point with bigger motor helping to get the boat moving and also getting the turbo on line sooner. I just can't grasp how much difference it would ultimately make. Putting together a 5.3 definitely seems cheaper than the 6.0 so that plays a roll as well. My trans will definitely hold the power
Putting together a 5.3 definitely seems cheaper than the 6.0 so that plays a roll as well. My trans will definitely hold the power
I look at a build as cost per HP and looking at it that way a 6.0 doesn't cost more in the end.
I've have over 7k in my long block and using a 5.3 block versus a 6.0 might have saved me $600 but how much power would I give up?
I don't know that a 5.3 would hold more boost than a 6.0 to me it seems like dialing in the tune is going to be the deciding factor on either combo.
I wouldn't stick an iron block in there, that's for sure. The car is already heavy enough.
An aluminum 5.3 block will give you plenty of strength with the thicker cylinder sleeves, and you could stroke it to 359ci with a 4" crank easily enough, especially if you were already thinking about forged internals.
The 4.8/5.3 heads can be loaded with 1.95/1.575 stainless steel valves and ported for fairly cheap, still flowing 280+cfm, even on the 3.78" bore. And Tony Mamo has an amazing small bore MMS205 head that would definitely be worth checking out for a build like this.
Even if you don't stroke it to 359ci, an aluminum 5.3L with some forged guts, good heads, a custom cam, and a single S480 turbo should be about perfect.
I have no experience in this so just asking. Would it help to go to a 4.5 Whipple if you want more power/higher boost? He has the hole cut in the hood already. At what point do you start seeing a befit going to the larger blower?
You don't. Or he wouldn't. Not without sleeving that LS7 block.
Dude with the silver GTO took a 4.0L Whipple about as far as it can go. Had terrible belt slip issues trying to break 1,000hp. Kept breaking snouts on the blower and belt tensioner brackets, **** like that. Point is, now his GTO has a turbo or two, because for that power, turbos are just better. Plain and simple.
You don't. Or he wouldn't. Not without sleeving that LS7 block.
Dude with the silver GTO took a 4.0L Whipple about as far as it can go. Had terrible belt slip issues trying to break 1,000hp. Kept breaking snouts on the blower and belt tensioner brackets, **** like that. Point is, now his GTO has a turbo or two, because for that power, turbos are just better. Plain and simple.
His turbo change wasnt without it's troubles too....although who knows why that was then unfortunately it had an accident.
With the heavy car, a bigger motor just makes sense in almost all respects apart from a sturdy base block.
But no reason why he couldnt do an LS3/LSA say 416 or so for sensible money ( obviously never as cheap as a 5.3 ) and still make 1k+ with ease.
Take a look at what the likes of AGP are doing with the Gen5's and their turbo kits, ADM Performance etc.
Why a 5.3 instead of a 6.0 or larger ? Heavy needs all the cubic inches possible to get it moving.
I've had a 6.0 and 5.3 in the same car... difference is negligible. 5.3L can still pull a 1.4 60' in a 4000lb car so it gets moving well enough for what it is.
Originally Posted by LLLosingit
6.0 will also open you up to more head choices and 317 heads are common on them
317 heads fit on a 5.3 and they are cheap enough to buy after the fact. For a 6.0 317 heads are about the last thing I would run, much better options out there for that bore.
Originally Posted by DavidBoren
I wouldn't stick an iron block in there, that's for sure. The car is already heavy enough.
An aluminum 5.3 block will give you plenty of strength with the thicker cylinder sleeves, and you could stroke it to 359ci with a 4" crank easily enough, especially if you were already thinking about forged internals.
The 4.8/5.3 heads can be loaded with 1.95/1.575 stainless steel valves and ported for fairly cheap, still flowing 280+cfm, even on the 3.78" bore. And Tony Mamo has an amazing small bore MMS205 head that would definitely be worth checking out for a build like this.
Even if you don't stroke it to 359ci, an aluminum 5.3L with some forged guts, good heads, a custom cam, and a single S480 turbo should be about perfect.
Funny that's the first thing I did was stick an iron block in mine... what's 85lbs at this weight? Run a lb or two more boost and you wont even notice! haha
Originally Posted by IronBlocked
4" stroke l33 with twin 62s should get you 150mph and spool instantly on the street
Twin 62's on a stock 5.3 should get you 150MPH. I'm not sure you want instant spool on the street, just blows the tires off.
Something I didn't see mentioned is that a ctsv doesn't weigh nearly as much as a Silverado or even a suburban does and the 5.3 does just fine in those with a heavier drivetrain. My old 5.3 rcsb drove just fine. Would it have benefitted from boost or cubes or both? Sure but it worked without.
I think a properly speced and boosted 5.3 would do great. Even with an iron block.
You are correct that the CTS-V weighs less than the 5.3-equipped trucks, and I am sure a boosted 5.3 would move a V1 just fine. I was advising the use of an aluminum block for better weight distribution front to rear, mainly. But less weight is free power, even moreso "free" than just cranking up the boost. You can still add an extra pound or two of boost to an aluminum block AND weigh 85# less. Think about it...
You are correct that the CTS-V weighs less than the 5.3-equipped trucks, and I am sure a boosted 5.3 would move a V1 just fine. I was advising the use of an aluminum block for better weight distribution front to rear, mainly. But less weight is free power, even moreso "free" than just cranking up the boost. You can still add an extra pound or two of boost to an aluminum block AND weigh 85# less. Think about it...
Oh I wasn't arguing against an aluminum block. I just wouldn't pay a ton extra for it either.
You are correct that the CTS-V weighs less than the 5.3-equipped trucks, and I am sure a boosted 5.3 would move a V1 just fine. I was advising the use of an aluminum block for better weight distribution front to rear, mainly. But less weight is free power, even moreso "free" than just cranking up the boost. You can still add an extra pound or two of boost to an aluminum block AND weigh 85# less. Think about it...
Oh I get it, had an aluminum 5.3 been available for the same price I would have grabbed one and enjoyed the lighter weight. But its rare to see an aluminum 5.3 go for $525 shipped intake to oilpan like it was my iron 5.3L. But the OP got lucky and got an even better deal so he's on the right path.
Originally Posted by 1bdbrd
Oh I wasn't arguing against an aluminum block. I just wouldn't pay a ton extra for it either.
That was my dilemma starting out. I wanted to go fairly quick for the lowest cost so I got a cheap engine and a cheap turbo and let them eat. Hard to beat getting an engine and turbo for $1050 which so far has held up to a years worth of beating. But I know that "free ride" of sorts will be over at some point so I went ahead and spent more to build a block to have on standby with the goal of reliability down the road.
03-25-2016, 08:22 PM
Heavy Sedan + Manual trans + turbo 5.3... Can it work? 
