D1 Procharged 347 Build
#1
D1 Procharged 347 Build
All, I've been thinking about this or a big cube stroker for a while... and I just want a car that drives closer to stock and still makes big power.
So here is my plan... with some questions. Comments/critiques welcome.
-ATI 1TE100-SCI D-1SC Supercharger Kit from Bob@Brutespeed with Twin 4.5 Intercoolers (Don't want to hack up my front clip)
-Aster Bracket
-Reuse my LS1 Block
-K1 Forged 3.622 Stroke with LME Billet Reluctor (would this be better than a GM crank or waste of money?)
-Compstar 6.125" Forged Rods
-Wiseco 3.903" Forged Pistons with 11cc Dish (~9.6:1 CR)
-Clevite H-Series Bearings
-ARP Main Studs
-Keep my TEA LS6 Heads (which use Hollow-stem LS3 valves) 62cc Chambers and PAC 1904 Springs
-GM LS9 Head Gaskets
-BTR LS3 Supercharger Cam 227/244 .612/.595 115+5 Cam (Tooley recommended)
-ID850s Injectors, Squash Dual Pump kit with DW200 Pumps, Nasty Stage 3 Fuel Line Kit with -8AN/-6AN Lines (Nasty and Lonnies both offer similar line kits - one better than the other?)
-Alkyinjection Methanol Injection Kit with Single M15 Nozzle (single be fine? or need dual? looking at running 100% meth)
-GM 2-Bar MAP Sensor (SD Tune)
-Upgrade my CircleD 4000 to a Triple Disk 4C 3600 Stall (WOT Lockup)
-Fab 9" with 3.50 Gears (So I don't run out of gear)
-Keep my Ported FAST 102/NW 102TB, Kooks 1-7/8" Headers and 3" True Duals and most of my valvetrain/engine parts from my last build in my sig
Goal would be around 12-13psi with the twin intercoolers... so a 4" or 3.85" pulley probably with my setup? And 700rwhp or so locked through the triple disk converter?
I don't know if I'll need the Aster bracket, but belt slip is not something I want to deal with. And since I'm going to use the Twin Intercooler setup, I don't want to push much higher than 12-13psi. Plus, I think that will give me about the power I want. I could just say F it... and go with an F1, ID1000s, FMIC, and push for 900+rwhp, but my transmission won't hold that. And I really don't want to redo everything. This is more of a build off what I have done and make the car better.
Any thoughts? Should I swap out the LS3 valves for the solid stem? Exhaust is a solid stem Ferrea...
Thanks
So here is my plan... with some questions. Comments/critiques welcome.
-ATI 1TE100-SCI D-1SC Supercharger Kit from Bob@Brutespeed with Twin 4.5 Intercoolers (Don't want to hack up my front clip)
-Aster Bracket
-Reuse my LS1 Block
-K1 Forged 3.622 Stroke with LME Billet Reluctor (would this be better than a GM crank or waste of money?)
-Compstar 6.125" Forged Rods
-Wiseco 3.903" Forged Pistons with 11cc Dish (~9.6:1 CR)
-Clevite H-Series Bearings
-ARP Main Studs
-Keep my TEA LS6 Heads (which use Hollow-stem LS3 valves) 62cc Chambers and PAC 1904 Springs
-GM LS9 Head Gaskets
-BTR LS3 Supercharger Cam 227/244 .612/.595 115+5 Cam (Tooley recommended)
-ID850s Injectors, Squash Dual Pump kit with DW200 Pumps, Nasty Stage 3 Fuel Line Kit with -8AN/-6AN Lines (Nasty and Lonnies both offer similar line kits - one better than the other?)
-Alkyinjection Methanol Injection Kit with Single M15 Nozzle (single be fine? or need dual? looking at running 100% meth)
-GM 2-Bar MAP Sensor (SD Tune)
-Upgrade my CircleD 4000 to a Triple Disk 4C 3600 Stall (WOT Lockup)
-Fab 9" with 3.50 Gears (So I don't run out of gear)
-Keep my Ported FAST 102/NW 102TB, Kooks 1-7/8" Headers and 3" True Duals and most of my valvetrain/engine parts from my last build in my sig
Goal would be around 12-13psi with the twin intercoolers... so a 4" or 3.85" pulley probably with my setup? And 700rwhp or so locked through the triple disk converter?
I don't know if I'll need the Aster bracket, but belt slip is not something I want to deal with. And since I'm going to use the Twin Intercooler setup, I don't want to push much higher than 12-13psi. Plus, I think that will give me about the power I want. I could just say F it... and go with an F1, ID1000s, FMIC, and push for 900+rwhp, but my transmission won't hold that. And I really don't want to redo everything. This is more of a build off what I have done and make the car better.
Any thoughts? Should I swap out the LS3 valves for the solid stem? Exhaust is a solid stem Ferrea...
Thanks
Last edited by JakeFusion; 03-31-2016 at 01:55 PM.
#7
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (16)
I would go with the Aster bracket. Thanks. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
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E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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#9
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (16)
You're welcome, thanks! Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#13
So it has begun... I'll be installing the BTR cam in my car this weekend. I may even pull the converter. I plan to run the stock shortblock for a while even with the D1... will probably be pretty low boost with the Methanol like 6-7lbs due to the 11.2:1 CR. But I figure it might last for a while if I keep it under 600rwhp.
#14
9 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
Nice build Jake! I was just getting through your other thread when this came up. Looks like you have a great parts list. I've been waiting for your forced induction addition. I figured it wouldn't be too long with all the hints in your last thread lol.
We've got pretty similar builds now except the 383. Have you considered going that route or are you just going to do a different block if you push yours a little too hard
I went with the dual nozzle kit because the cost increase was minimal so I didn't see why not. It is one more area for possible boost leak but I haven't had any problems running 10# and my nozzles mount into a rubber elbow. I had another shop make me some custom hoses for where I wanted to mount it. I also didn't realize the pump needed to be mounted below the tank which is good info to know because I'll be redoing those custom lines now.
Did you talk to ID about the size injectors? They recommended larger than I was originally going to run. I'm just learning what's necessary for forced induction with fuel demands now though.
We've got pretty similar builds now except the 383. Have you considered going that route or are you just going to do a different block if you push yours a little too hard
I went with the dual nozzle kit because the cost increase was minimal so I didn't see why not. It is one more area for possible boost leak but I haven't had any problems running 10# and my nozzles mount into a rubber elbow. I had another shop make me some custom hoses for where I wanted to mount it. I also didn't realize the pump needed to be mounted below the tank which is good info to know because I'll be redoing those custom lines now.
Did you talk to ID about the size injectors? They recommended larger than I was originally going to run. I'm just learning what's necessary for forced induction with fuel demands now though.
#17
9 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
They're customer service is great over at ID. Really helpful. I did 1300s but I'm going to have the car ready for E85 so I want to have enough injector for it. They're expensive so I don't want to have to buy twice.
I'm definitely going F1A just waiting to see how the car does with all the upgrades first and then upgrade from there. Thinking maybe super victor intake and elbow also. I was talking to one of the guys above and he was saying they been known blow apart with boost.
My 4L60 was great for the street and strip but I want the manual valve body and trans brake so TH400 it is. Going to be fun. I ended up with an ATI 9" fuel and blown converter. I think 4400 stall. Thanks for help on that choice.
I'm definitely going F1A just waiting to see how the car does with all the upgrades first and then upgrade from there. Thinking maybe super victor intake and elbow also. I was talking to one of the guys above and he was saying they been known blow apart with boost.
My 4L60 was great for the street and strip but I want the manual valve body and trans brake so TH400 it is. Going to be fun. I ended up with an ATI 9" fuel and blown converter. I think 4400 stall. Thanks for help on that choice.
#18
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
We just finished up a 05 Vette M6 at the shop. Stock short block, studs, LS9 gaskets, BTR Jam cam, stock intake, Dynatech LT's and exhaust.
D1 w/ 16 psi, IIRC. Fore Innovations twin in tank pumps, return system, ID1000 I was seeing 70% IDC@750rwhp at 5800rpm on pump gas.
We went down a pulley size to keep the boost in check and put in ID1300's in because it was going on E85. When we originally spec'd and ordered the parts the customer wanted 650rwhp on pump. Things quickly escalated
Ended up at 800hp/700ft lbs w/ a very soft tune on E85. Customer was worried about the stock short block. If we had left the smaller pulley on it I'm pretty confident we would have touched 900 or been damn close.
D1 w/ 16 psi, IIRC. Fore Innovations twin in tank pumps, return system, ID1000 I was seeing 70% IDC@750rwhp at 5800rpm on pump gas.
We went down a pulley size to keep the boost in check and put in ID1300's in because it was going on E85. When we originally spec'd and ordered the parts the customer wanted 650rwhp on pump. Things quickly escalated
Ended up at 800hp/700ft lbs w/ a very soft tune on E85. Customer was worried about the stock short block. If we had left the smaller pulley on it I'm pretty confident we would have touched 900 or been damn close.