When to go solid roller?
#1
When to go solid roller?
Some of you are familiar with my build Project LSxpress top dragster. I just redid my shortblock which consists of a filled LS2 block studded and girdled with a stock stroke K1 crank, K1 rods, wiseco 4.005 Pistons with the tool steel .200wall wrist pins. I also have a set of dry decked 243 heads that are getting CNC'd by PRC. Stock size ferrea stainless intakes and inconel exhaust valves. BTR .660 springs with Ti hardware. Ls9 gaskets with arp studs. The dragster should weigh as close to 1650lbs as I can get it. I have a 1.69 first gear Powerglide, 3.90 rear gear and big bubba 35-15-16 tires. I sold my cam an lifters that I was going to run and want to do something that will go 7500-7800 rpm. This will be on straight methanol, with 16 injectors in a proflow with twin s369sxe turbos. I am open to suggestions.
#2
Restricted User
Sub 8000 RPM is still hydraulic territory, but since its a dragster and not a street car, a solid roller might still be a good idea.
And I just realized this helps you absolutely none.
And I just realized this helps you absolutely none.
#3
Originally Posted by JoeNova
Sub 8000 RPM is still hydraulic territory, but since its a dragster and not a street car, a solid roller might still be a good idea.
And I just realized this helps you absolutely none.
And I just realized this helps you absolutely none.
#4
8 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (32)
My truck motor is a solid roller. I've been shifting it at 7700-7800. I'm not necessarily in what you would call non hyd roller territory. I did it from a reliability stand point. The added aggressiveness of the cam lobe was a bonus.
I'm in the middle of a few updates and we backed the cam up 4 degrees to see if we could get some rpm out of it. I'd like it to make power good enough to need to be shifted at 8000 rpm for the ol'truck to make improvements in et mph.
I'm in the middle of a few updates and we backed the cam up 4 degrees to see if we could get some rpm out of it. I'd like it to make power good enough to need to be shifted at 8000 rpm for the ol'truck to make improvements in et mph.
#5
Originally Posted by Blown06
My truck motor is a solid roller. I've been shifting it at 7700-7800. I'm not necessarily in what you would call non hyd roller territory. I did it from a reliability stand point. The added aggressiveness of the cam lobe was a bonus.
I'm in the middle of a few updates and we backed the cam up 4 degrees to see if we could get some rpm out of it. I'd like it to make power good enough to need to be shifted at 8000 rpm for the ol'truck to make improvements in et mph.
I'm in the middle of a few updates and we backed the cam up 4 degrees to see if we could get some rpm out of it. I'd like it to make power good enough to need to be shifted at 8000 rpm for the ol'truck to make improvements in et mph.
#7
9 Second Club
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with the power these make in the mid range up to 6800 or so and guys running low 8's and high 7s running these rpms at 3000+ pounds . what is the real advantage running that high of rpm?
no disrespect I'm trying to see where the gain is. as every turbo engine iv seen likes to work and they liked it when you try to hold them back and let them work.
i know big hp numbers require high rpm. but holding the rpm down a bit might help it live longer an is a hell of a lot easier on valve train.
no disrespect I'm trying to see where the gain is. as every turbo engine iv seen likes to work and they liked it when you try to hold them back and let them work.
i know big hp numbers require high rpm. but holding the rpm down a bit might help it live longer an is a hell of a lot easier on valve train.
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#8
Originally Posted by yenkomike
with the power these make in the mid range up to 6800 or so and guys running low 8's and high 7s running these rpms at 3000+ pounds . what is the real advantage running that high of rpm?
no disrespect I'm trying to see where the gain is. as every turbo engine iv seen likes to work and they liked it when you try to hold them back and let them work.
i know big hp numbers require high rpm. but holding the rpm down a bit might help it live longer an is a hell of a lot easier on valve train.
no disrespect I'm trying to see where the gain is. as every turbo engine iv seen likes to work and they liked it when you try to hold them back and let them work.
i know big hp numbers require high rpm. but holding the rpm down a bit might help it live longer an is a hell of a lot easier on valve train.
#9
Restricted User
Why not run a shorter first gear and step down from a 3.90 to a 3.73?
Most of the solid roller turbo setups around here are guys that are running 180+ MPH in cars that weigh 1200 lbs more than your dragster.
Most of the solid roller turbo setups around here are guys that are running 180+ MPH in cars that weigh 1200 lbs more than your dragster.
#10
Originally Posted by JoeNova
Why not run a shorter first gear and step down from a 3.90 to a 3.73?
Most of the solid roller turbo setups around here are guys that are running 180+ MPH in cars that weigh 1200 lbs more than your dragster.
Most of the solid roller turbo setups around here are guys that are running 180+ MPH in cars that weigh 1200 lbs more than your dragster.
#11
12 Second Club
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elky, I have thought about running a solid roller for the same reason you are. I can keep a higher number rear gear to aid in the launch, but I would still be able to mph out the back without tapping the rev limiter. And like blown06 stated, the added aggresiveness of the cam would be kinda helpful too. The only thing I am worried about in my situation, is that I have a mild build th400. I mean it has a billet front hub and input shaft, but not quite sure how well it would do spinning to 8000-8500. Hopefully it wouldnt blow the hell up on me. lol
#12
Haha that is something to think about. In my case, I have a Reid case powerglide with all good parts in it. We do have a 65 ElCamino that I am building with my dad and it will be powered by a LS3 headed LQ4 carbed making 550ish hp with a stock case and internal th400 with a good valvebody and clutches. We plan to wing it to 7000 but ad 1000hp and another 1000rpm and you are asking for a shrapnel bomb.
#13
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Here in Australia, bloke has gone 1600hp and 7.99 (3800lb) on a hyd. roller with standard rockers and a trunion upgrade. From memory it spun to about 7500.
#14
Originally Posted by Ben.
Here in Australia, bloke has gone 1600hp and 7.99 (3800lb) on a hyd. roller with standard rockers and a trunion upgrade. From memory it spun to about 7500.
#15
11 Second Club
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Why wait at all? I'm running a low lash solid roller on an NA street car that won't see over 7200 rpm and you couldn't pay me to go back hydraulic.
I am using stock rockers with shims instead of adjustable ones for now. I set it when I installed all the parts new and after about 3000 miles of aggressive street use the lash is still where I set it to within .001". Cold lash set to .000" and hot to .010".
I went from a 230/238 to a SR equivalent of a 234/242 (239/247 actual spec) and gained 20rwhp.
I am using stock rockers with shims instead of adjustable ones for now. I set it when I installed all the parts new and after about 3000 miles of aggressive street use the lash is still where I set it to within .001". Cold lash set to .000" and hot to .010".
I went from a 230/238 to a SR equivalent of a 234/242 (239/247 actual spec) and gained 20rwhp.
#16
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Why wait at all? I'm running a low lash solid roller on an NA street car that won't see over 7200 rpm and you couldn't pay me to go back hydraulic.
I am using stock rockers with shims instead of adjustable ones for now. I set it when I installed all the parts new and after about 3000 miles of aggressive street use the lash is still where I set it to within .001". Cold lash set to .000" and hot to .010".
I went from a 230/238 to a SR equivalent of a 234/242 (239/247 actual spec) and gained 20rwhp.
I am using stock rockers with shims instead of adjustable ones for now. I set it when I installed all the parts new and after about 3000 miles of aggressive street use the lash is still where I set it to within .001". Cold lash set to .000" and hot to .010".
I went from a 230/238 to a SR equivalent of a 234/242 (239/247 actual spec) and gained 20rwhp.
#17
#18
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Although they make power, solid roller cams/lifters are a maintenance item...at least in the sbc/bbc world you should be checking lash AND pulling the lifters out on occasion to possibly catch a lifter that may be on its way out. Problem with the LS engines is you have to pull the heads to get to the lifters which kinda sucks.
#19
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The only difference in expense how mine is set up is the cost of the lifters. That said I've had mixed results with the LS7 lifters and would upgrade to something a little better anyway. Overall cost difference would be around $200. This of course changes if you use aftermarket roller rockers and valve covers.
You are correct the 20hp on a boosted vehicle isn't much. You were talking about spinning high enough the stability is of value to me. It's of value to me even on my mild setup. I also like that I don't have lifter bleed off at the track after runs like I did several times with the ls7 lifters. FYI, I do think the car actually gained a little more than 20hp as the car was discovered to be lean on the dyno but I did not have time to correct it for another pull. Still we would be talking about another 5-10 tops so small potatoes in a boosted application...I consider the power gain a bonus.
There is also just something about driving the car now that feels different in the way the engine runs. Smoother more explosive burst of power, seems to rev quicker...things like that which are very hard to describe but very apparent to someone driving the same car for many many years.
In my particular setup there is no additional maintenance. I've been checking lash to ease my mind even though Kip himself told me once it's set and broke in everything should be good for the life to the valvesprings. I only put 6,000-10,000 miles on my car a year. Spending an hour to pull the covers and check a few isn't a hassle for me.
It's not for everyone by any means, was just offering my experience since you sounded like it was something you were already considering.
Last edited by thunderstruck507; 04-22-2016 at 10:35 AM.
#20
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thunderstruck507, thank you for taking the time to describe that! To me it is very useful information. I always feel a little funny about hydraulic lifters, but laziness and cheapness on my part always seem to keep me using them. Lol I figured there would be more to the story than just the additional power. Sounds like there is a subjectively different drivability feel to the engine that is nice, and rev freaks can be happier with them too. :-)
Are the bearings in solid rollers more likely to go bad and wipe out a cam than the ones in hydraulic rollers are?
Also, basic newb question: what is the additional expense on the top of the head to go to the necessary adjustable setup with whatever aftermarket rockers are needed?
Are the bearings in solid rollers more likely to go bad and wipe out a cam than the ones in hydraulic rollers are?
Also, basic newb question: what is the additional expense on the top of the head to go to the necessary adjustable setup with whatever aftermarket rockers are needed?