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The surge tank isn't pressurized. It will be plumbed like this... Though the main feed on ours comes from the pump itself. (bottom port on diagram)
I'm not sure what the deal with the fittings is. I noticed the same thing. I asked the seller on EBAY, haven't heard back. Doesnt' look like an ORB fitting would work either, no recess for o-ring. Would need a crush gasket maybe. I might end up welding mine on. I had tried some stat-o-seals like this... but they don't look like they they will work well. Might try an AN6 bulkhead fitting too. They will have alot wider area to seal and may work with a stat-o-seal.
I may have to do this myself. My Mustang tank will pick up a whiff of air once the level gets down to apprx 1/3. An option I have been exploring is a Cobra tank which has excellent baffling and is easy to install whatever pumps you want.
But Adam, do you think there's anyway to eliminate having to run 2 pumps with the surge tank deal? Be nice if one good powerful pump could keep the surge tank and pressure sides taken care of.
No way of doing it with one pump I'm aware of. For $24 you get the whole hangar assembly including the OEM pump and sock filter. Which I think will be enough keep the surge tank full. Doubt I'll go through 2liters of fuel in a single pass. Plus you have to figure the OEM pump is still dumping in fuel to refill the surge the entire pass. I can always pick up a 255 intank cheap if it can't keep up.
No way of doing it with one pump I'm aware of. For $24 you get the whole hangar assembly including the OEM pump and sock filter. Which I think will be enough keep the surge tank full. Doubt I'll go through 2liters of fuel in a single pass. Plus you have to figure the OEM pump is still dumping in fuel to refill the surge the entire pass. I can always pick up a 255 intank cheap if it can't keep up.
Yeah after thinking about it some more I also don't see anyway to run just one pump. I'm currently running the dual Holley pump, and the thought of adding ANOTHER electric pump kinda sucks...taxing the electrical system.
What are the dimensions of your surge tank? Do you think it's big enough to keep the air bubbles that may be transmitted into it separated from the pressure side port?
Nice job with the throttle body, noticed you plugged the the breather pipe at the top of the TB, what thread have you tapped it?
Watching the build closely as I'm going down a similar route, got a pair of 60mm holset I'm tempted to use
I ended up drilling it out a tad and eye balling the tap size, think it was M16x1.5? Same pitch/thread as the coolant plug/sensor in the head. Which is what I used to plug it.
I ended up drilling it out a tad and eye balling the tap size, think it was M16x1.5? Same pitch/thread as the coolant plug/sensor in the head. Which is what I used to plug it.
Cool, that's good to know, I was looking at a taper thread to make it air tight but I don't know if there's enough material there.
Nice build so far! I swapped the drums out on my Fox with Turbo Coupe rotors and calipers, but had to modify SN95 Mustang mounting brackets to make them bolt up. PM me if you would like the details.
Found a spool,33 spline axles, and C-clip eliminators all for $280 on local C/L.
Got the surge tank all setup. Turned out slick... used the stato-seals since the crappy surge tank didn't come with ORB recesses for o-rings. Company refunded me back $9... Which isn't enough to cover the seals.
Also picked up a 08 alum 5.3 shortblock with low miles for $500. Not sure if I'll toss it in the mustang now or not. Then I'll have a 4.8 sitting here doing nothing.
Nice score. I never run across those kinds of deals lol. People ( including the wrecking yards) want way too much for ls engines out here in California.
Found a spool,33 spline axles, and C-clip eliminators all for $280 on local C/L.
Got the surge tank all setup. Turned out slick... used the stato-seals since the crappy surge tank didn't come with ORB recesses for o-rings. Company refunded me back $9... Which isn't enough to cover the seals.
Also picked up a 08 alum 5.3 shortblock with low miles for $500. Not sure if I'll toss it in the mustang now or not. Then I'll have a 4.8 sitting here doing nothing.
Wow the deck surface on that block looks like it was cut with a hammer and a chisel. If you are gonna use an mls type gasket with a decent amount of boost, I think it would be wise to just pull it down real quick and have a machine shop just lightly touch it up. MLS gaskets like a really smooth surface to work correctly. Just my .02, I'm sure some have gotten away with it.
I agree it seems crappy. My other Alum 5.3 (LC9) was the same though. Seemed to hold boost just fine with an LS9 gaskets and china studs. Ran 26lbs trapping 159 with no issues until I tried to bump the timing up to 17* and busted a piston/torched the head/deck. The older L33’s have a nice finish, but all the gen4 alum blocks I’ve seen are like this. Even a brand new LS3 block ordered from GM. I was actually told by a GM engineer that this finish helps hold the gasket in place and that the smooth RA surface requirement for MLS gaskets isn’t so much to hold in combustion, but to seal the water ports in high mileage applications. Which he said with the new MLS gasket technology is no longer an issue. Not so sure I buy that but it’s what I was told when we called up complaining about the deck surface.
When using the LS9 gasket with these baby bore engines, the fire ring is nowhere near the sleeve, so its sealing directly against that finish. Can’t see how that would be ideal.
This was my old LC9 engine after block sanding with 400/600g. Got a good half season on it at 24-26lbs with china studs before I got greedy with timing and blew it.
Heads were the same way…
Last edited by Forcefed86; 07-26-2016 at 08:31 PM.
Fuel tank came out well. Do you have the part numbers for the seals used
Seals are a -6 statoseal. Some of the other similar surge tanks I looked at have the recess for an O-ring. I’d go that route before farting around with these seals.
Decided on running the LC9 5.3. Not looking for killer power and I want the weight off the nose. Pretty much got it all together today. Left that OEM quality deck finish.
Pulled the pistons out to clean and check gaps. Were already at .024, so I left them. Hope that's enough for non-intercooled setup around 17lbs.
Installed an improved racing crank scraper I had laying around. This was a MAJOR pain. Had to trim it in 100 places so it didn't hit the crank. Improved racing claims 2-4 WHP with one of these... Not worth it!
Installed the Howards version of the GM "hot cam". Was within 1* on a factory timing set dot-to-dot. Hope it's as gentle on the valve train as the GM version. Using Factory rockers/pushrods.
Cam is a 219/228 @ 112 .525 lift.
Cut about 2 coils off the pressure relief on the DOD oil pump. My last one had 70+psi of oil pressure at idle with 5w30 oil. This dropped it down to 50ish last time.
Scored a set of 241 heads on CL for $200. Already had titanium retainers and .660 dual spring kit on them! Pulled from a GTO, and the finish on the heads was the same as the block...
Cleaned the heads and valve covers up and installed with LS9 gaskets and some used ARP studs I had laying around.
Spend the rest of the afternoon getting the china oil pan and pickup to fit. Block to pan holes didn't line up, had to hog them out a ton. And the pickup was way out of position and bottomed out on the pan. Couple hours with a dremel and a torch and everything fits.
Pan wouldn't sit flush with oil pickup tube installed
Here's where the pickup was bottoming out. Heated the pickup tube with some MAP gas and bent it into place.
All done.
Also had picked up an SFI balancer several months back. I went to install it and noticed it was pretty darn small. About 5.5". Seems like a big step from the factory 7.5" balancer, so I may not use it. Anyone use a 5.5" balancer? Have any issues with it on the street charging/cooling?
Fox body's like weight on the front end FYI. Your going to have a hell of time keeping the front end down. Well we always do anyways.
Appreciate the tip, I didn’t know that. Can’t imagine I’ll have issues keeping the nose down. This will be a 100% street toy with traction control. Running factory wheels with some 245/50R16 Nitto Drag radials on a 2.73 gear. 650-700 HP crank is the goal. I’d like as much weight over the rear wheels as possible and as little as possible everywhere else!
with proper suspension tuning the front will stay down
Obviously. What I was trying to say is the foxs preform better and are easy to dial in with a 55/45 split as apposed to say a 50/50 for example. They can handle and often preform better with more weight on the front end.
06-27-2016, 02:11 PM
