Tomhames

iTrader: (3)

"Lsx cooling system for dummies " is the title of the post on the bullet.....with that link to
pirate4x4 in it as well..... Good reading.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Scotty, I ordered them separately from ebay. An10 to an6 reducer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FEMALE-AN10-...NXFYhE&vxp=mtr



Trans cooler plumbed and ready to go.



Got a belt that fits... seems pretty tight might need to go to the next size up. Is there any place in particular the tensioner should be?

This is where mine ended up on the tensioner.



Welded some scrap alum tubing I had on the end of the thermo to step it up a size and match my radiator. Upper and lower radiator hoses are done. Radiator mounts done. (used all the old mustang stuff.)



Welded up a bung with a heat sink on it. My sensors kinda close to the turbo, hope this helps it live a long life. Anyone using these?





The taurus fan I ordered has an oddball plug on it anyone know where to find the female end of the plug? It's a ford WPT706, but I can't find one anywhere.





Getting closer...

coltboostin

Fancy. Let us know how it works. What gas are you killing sensors on?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Haven't burnt one of mine since going to e85, but I don't usually have the sensor so close. Recently burnt 2 in a buddys car on E85. They were maybe 6" away from the turbo though on a pretty healthy engine.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

i couldn't find that plug either. I ended up just cutting it off. IIRC, one is for ground the others are for high and low speeds.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

Yeah, it's been a while since I read that thread. Not sure why I had it in the back of my head that plugging the holes could do more harm than good.

Carry on fellas.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

I cut my plug too. As I'm sure you probably know those fan pull a TON of amps on fire up.. Like 35 or something IIRC. Gauge the wire appropriately.

3 window

iTrader: (1)

I think the 3 thin bosses on the stationary part of the tensioner are "loose,tight and just right." When your belt is on, it seems to be tight as you said. Try and get the single boss of the moveable part closer to the center boss of the stationary mount.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

2JZFC sent me a plug he had laying around. (many thanks! ) They are 7 gauge wires I believe and from a dead stop if you flip the HI switch it pulls up to 60a! I usually start in in low, then kick the high switch so it doesn't pull as much.

I have a $13 90a continuous duty solenoid (golf cart) I had planned on using this time. Can also PWM them with the MS3x.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Shifter was a PITA! The universal 80885 works with ford/chevy trans. But mine was the 81002. Which is the direct drop in that fits in the factory plastics of a 79-93 mustang. Spoke with B&M and they said this unit wouldn't work with a TH400. The reverse to park detent is not long enough.

This bummed me out because this shifter fit perfectly in the factory console and looked great.


http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26M/130/8100...FQUuaQodTrcNnQ



So I decided to tear up the shifter!

Ended up drilling out all the rivets and pulling it apart. Cut a deeper park detent in the gate. Then adding another row of teeth for the ratchet arms to grab. Giant pain, but It goes into every gear great now and looks factory with this shifter. Used screws in place of the rivets.

Here is one gate with the shaded area to cut. There is another behind it that needs the same area cut.



Here they are cut.



Unfortunately this alone didn't fix it. I had to tear it all down again and add a new "tooth" to the area above the gate slot I cut.





Threw it all back together with some manly pink grease and it's a worker!

2JZFC

iTrader: (26)

Awesome!

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Drilled the area on the TBSS intake just aft of the TB with a 1/2" bit. After some light sanding The $7 GM plastic IAT sensor taps into the hole very snug. Thanks goes to JoeNova for that trick. He says he has done a couple intakes this way and never had one leak or come out. The ridges on the sensor were .54. I ground them down to .52 or so and tapped the sensor in the hole with a rubber mallet.





Looking down the TB you can see it's barely poking into the air stream.

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Good lord.. 90 amps!!

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Seems nutty I know! I usually ran 2 40a relays in parallel. 90a relay is cheaper and easier to wire, so why not. Many years ago I ran a single 30a relay for this fan and it eventually melted. $13 90a solenoid seems like an easy fix… assuming it works.

silent_assassin

sick build

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Ordered up some intake bolts from Billet ICT for my "truck intake". I wasn't real impressed for $16 worth of bolts. They came with no washers and the heads are maybe 1/16" of an inch larger than the bolt hole... if that. They assured me this was fine and the bolts would hold.





It didn't give me a warm fuzzy anyway so I picked up some 1" "fender" washers from ace.

gtfoxy

Like the shifter look.

On my 90 Notch I used a QuickSilver. Cut the handle down & rewelded it so it looked like a short shifter like you did.

I didn't use the stang specific shifter, though, as they don't make a quicksilver like that. I made a mount system out of Al to drop the shifter below the tunnel so the shifter fit under a factory 5-spd cover.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Grabbed some china black injector spacers. And some china SS hardware for the injector rail spacing. Worked perfect!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191373462430?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=490489810658&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Latest hurtle...

And of course I can't get to the the loose oil pan fitting to fix it without pulling the engine to pull the pan! I noticed on the Moroso LS pans these have a few tac welds to hold them in place.

stevieturbo

What seals it ? Is it on an o-ring of some sort, or is it supposed to be welded tight from above ?