my car is currentley getting tuned and i am having a voltahe loss issue. I has ls1 alternator, two delrae fans, twin 450s walrbo, and one on a hobbs swith. at idle its around 12volts or so and during pulls its 11.3...Does this sound like i need to switch to the truck alternator or do i have a problem else where? Thanks guys.

Its a turbo 408 setup.

so far made 706whp on 11psi...e85 14 degrees of timing. turbo 400. hoping for high 7xx on 11psi when all said and done for now.

 

Belt slipping? My alternator was dropping voltage and I took it and had it rebuilt and problem went away.

 

Now that you say that, it slid off two ribs...

 

That's where I'd look then. It's probably not sitting exactly right and slipping. If you moved it to the upper passenger side like I did we had to work on getting the belt to line up properly for a while before it stopped slipping and jumping ribs.

 

It's still down low. On a ly6 block.

 

Ok. If it jumped ribs though it is probably slipping.

 

It's wired incorrectly I'd guess. You need to know what year alternator it is and then you need to wire it properly depending on the model. Easiest fix is to buy one for $99 shipped that has been modified to run off the charging cable alone. Other wise you may need a resistor inline, or need PWM control etc... It is not usually just 12v to a single wire and go. Most likely you have also damaged the current alternator by wiring it incorrectly without the resistor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380600040302?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I am running a factory ls1 alternator and plug...nothing has changed.

 

If you are 100% sure it is wired correctly and it's not charging, then the alternator is bad. Not sure what the question is there. Take it in to any auto parts store and they can test it for you. Should be over 13v at idle.

 

My question is do i need to replace it with a factory one or switch to a larger AMP truck alternator...but i guess either way i have a problem with the ALT. lol Might as well do truck alt and see what happens.

 

Like I said earlier I just had mine rebuilt and it works great. It cost me $40.

 

More amps available is always good, just bear in mind the truck alt will require a different belt length and more room for clearance where its mounted.

 

I had issue with a rebuild ( and outright sale re-con unit ) stopping charging above 6500rpm.

Definitely regulator related somehow but no idea why. Got fucked off with them in the end and bought a 170A unit from these guys. It's been faultless since. Although I did have to put a small spacer on the bracket as it wasnt quite a direct fit.

https://alternatorparts.com/ad230-ad...ternators.html

 

i have two alternators one napa High output 200 amp truck one on its way...a factory truck 145amp. so between the two something is goning to work. going to start with the truck one first. the 145amp is free for now which is perfect. does anyone know what size belt it takes or will the tensioner make up the difference.

 

after some research on ground straps i realize i have one missing off the rear of the passeneger side head to frame. Would this be any bit of my problem? lol

 

It could.
Ideally, we'd all have a heavy guage ground wire from the alternator to the battery. (Car audio guys do this) the alternator case is a major part in the charging/ground system. I make sure to have clean metal contact surfaces at all alternator and ground wire contact points.
You can't have too many grounds.....

 

I have the tick performance battery relocation kit which is 4 gauge all the back to the battery from the alternator