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Alternator question! urgent

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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:13 PM
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Default Alternator question! urgent

my car is currentley getting tuned and i am having a voltahe loss issue. I has ls1 alternator, two delrae fans, twin 450s walrbo, and one on a hobbs swith. at idle its around 12volts or so and during pulls its 11.3...Does this sound like i need to switch to the truck alternator or do i have a problem else where? Thanks guys.

Its a turbo 408 setup.

so far made 706whp on 11psi...e85 14 degrees of timing. turbo 400. hoping for high 7xx on 11psi when all said and done for now.

Last edited by Hypforlife32; May 13, 2016 at 04:29 PM.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:16 PM
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Belt slipping? My alternator was dropping voltage and I took it and had it rebuilt and problem went away.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:19 PM
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Now that you say that, it slid off two ribs...
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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:22 PM
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Default Alternator question! urgent

That's where I'd look then. It's probably not sitting exactly right and slipping. If you moved it to the upper passenger side like I did we had to work on getting the belt to line up properly for a while before it stopped slipping and jumping ribs.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:23 PM
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It's still down low. On a ly6 block.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Hypforlife32
It's still down low. On a ly6 block.
Ok. If it jumped ribs though it is probably slipping.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 01:24 PM
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It's wired incorrectly I'd guess. You need to know what year alternator it is and then you need to wire it properly depending on the model. Easiest fix is to buy one for $99 shipped that has been modified to run off the charging cable alone. Other wise you may need a resistor inline, or need PWM control etc... It is not usually just 12v to a single wire and go. Most likely you have also damaged the current alternator by wiring it incorrectly without the resistor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380600040302?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Old May 13, 2016 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
It's wired incorrectly I'd guess. You need to know what year alternator it is and then you need to wire it properly depending on the model. Easiest fix is to buy one for $99 shipped that has been modified to run off the charging cable alone. Other wise you may need a resistor inline, or need PWM control etc... It is not usually just 12v to a single wire and go. Most likely you have also damaged the current alternator by wiring it incorrectly without the resistor.

LS1 Camaro Trans Am One Wire Alternator 98 99 00 01 02 | eBay

I am running a factory ls1 alternator and plug...nothing has changed.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 02:59 PM
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If you are 100% sure it is wired correctly and it's not charging, then the alternator is bad. Not sure what the question is there. Take it in to any auto parts store and they can test it for you. Should be over 13v at idle.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
If you are 100% sure it is wired correctly and it's not charging, then the alternator is bad. Not sure what the question is there. Take it in to any auto parts store and they can test it for you. Should be over 13v at idle.

My question is do i need to replace it with a factory one or switch to a larger AMP truck alternator...but i guess either way i have a problem with the ALT. lol Might as well do truck alt and see what happens.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Hypforlife32
My question is do i need to replace it with a factory one or switch to a larger AMP truck alternator...but i guess either way i have a problem with the ALT. lol Might as well do truck alt and see what happens.
Like I said earlier I just had mine rebuilt and it works great. It cost me $40.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Hypforlife32
My question is do i need to replace it with a factory one or switch to a larger AMP truck alternator...but i guess either way i have a problem with the ALT. lol Might as well do truck alt and see what happens.
More amps available is always good, just bear in mind the truck alt will require a different belt length and more room for clearance where its mounted.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 04:49 PM
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I had issue with a rebuild ( and outright sale re-con unit ) stopping charging above 6500rpm.

Definitely regulator related somehow but no idea why. Got fucked off with them in the end and bought a 170A unit from these guys. It's been faultless since. Although I did have to put a small spacer on the bracket as it wasnt quite a direct fit.

https://alternatorparts.com/ad230-ad...ternators.html
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Old May 13, 2016 | 04:57 PM
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i have two alternators one napa High output 200 amp truck one on its way...a factory truck 145amp. so between the two something is goning to work. going to start with the truck one first. the 145amp is free for now which is perfect. does anyone know what size belt it takes or will the tensioner make up the difference.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 07:51 PM
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after some research on ground straps i realize i have one missing off the rear of the passeneger side head to frame. Would this be any bit of my problem? lol
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Old May 13, 2016 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Hypforlife32
after some research on ground straps i realize i have one missing off the rear of the passeneger side head to frame. Would this be any bit of my problem? lol
It could.
Ideally, we'd all have a heavy guage ground wire from the alternator to the battery. (Car audio guys do this) the alternator case is a major part in the charging/ground system. I make sure to have clean metal contact surfaces at all alternator and ground wire contact points.
You can't have too many grounds.....

Last edited by LT1PWRD; May 13, 2016 at 09:20 PM.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 09:52 PM
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I have the tick performance battery relocation kit which is 4 gauge all the back to the battery from the alternator
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