Moter

iTrader: (20)

Turn off knock and see what happens..

Budget LS Guy

I think we have already tried that. I installed a new cam position sensor because it was throwing a code and no change. I am going to install a new fuel pump and see if that changes anything. I am kind of coming back to the timing again too because my mechanic friend told me that just because i have good compression does not indicate that i have proper timing.

Bad Apache

What code is it setting? I have an Avalanche at the shop now that sets a cam/crank correlation code. It has an LC9 that the timing chain tensioner fell apart and the chain jumped a few teeth. So it is possible to have the cam timing off and set a cam sensor code. It also would explain your high cranking compression readings as well. If it did this since day one, it's worth a look.

Bad Apache

BTW I love the Fairmont! I have a '78 Zephyr Z7 coupe.

ringgold

Is the car making boost as it should? A cousin of mine recently took his turbo car to get tuned. Had a cheap dinky intercooler on it. Car would blow smoke like a diesel when it started to go into boost and wouldn't really make any power or boost as it should have. Run of them mill type setup too, really simple stuff. The tuner got a tune in it, but obviously not making power as it should. We dug out the tuner's old intercooler he used on his old race car and put it on my cousin's car. Right off the bat with no changes made it made 100whp more at 5600 rpms and hit boost cut right there, which was set at 15 psi or so. Ended up buying a decent intercooler from a guy that day and did some more tuning and it ended up making pretty good power.

Long story short, is there any restrictions after the turbo?

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

It runs like poop with a NA tune and turbo completely disconnected from the intake as shown in the vid.

Budget LS Guy

CMP hi and lo bank code. Thanks i love the old monts too!

Bad Apache

Any idea of the code numbers? p0016? or the more common p0340 p0341?

Budget LS Guy

p0342, p0343. Well i said screw it and i am pulling off the timing cover to verify timing.

Budget LS Guy

Well guys i figured it out. The timing was off. I messed it up in the engine build. Took it apart and re-aligned the timing marks and it runs like hell now. Still running on NA tune but feels great to finally have some power. Will post videos soon.

TrickrTreat

iTrader: (3)

I read the whole thread thinking " I'm going to recommend checking timing marks" and I'll be damned.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Great to hear! Usually the simple stuff! How far was it off? Did you degree the camshaft? or just align dot-to-dot?

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Glad you found it. I have heard too many timing issues with LS motors. $20 summit degree wheel and $15 Harbor Freight dial indicator is all you need to confirm.

Bad Apache

Glad to hear you found it!

X2 on did you degree it and how far off was it?

Looking forward to some real numbers this time around!

jon volk

iTrader: (1)

x3 on what the actual cam timing was.

Budget LS Guy

To be honest with you guys it must have been like two or three teeth off on the cam. I am lucky that the pistons did not slap the valves! I somehow did not line the dots up correctly on the engine build, which i am not proud of!

tblentrprz

LS Guy thanks for providing feedback.

General Curiosity... It seems the boost community knows how significant getting the correct cam is for the application. I would think one knows it works best when installed as designed. When installed per spec, there is a reference in which to make cam timing adjustments if needed.

What prompts folks to install a cam without using the alignment specs? I get the "slam it in" approach but... a 12 pack and a call to your buddy (with alignment tools if you don't heave them) and good to go. Just a thought.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

The OP obviously had a brain fart and it happens. Everyone knows dot to dot is the method. There have also been billions of cams installed without degreeing and they worked fine, I did it many times myself. The only reason I degreed my cam on my turbo build was to avoid the dreaded missing 200 horsepower that pops up a few times a year. There seem to be some variation on the LS motors and I wasnt going to tear a motor back apart for something like cam timing. The positive from this thread is hopefully it will prevent it from happening to someone else.

tblentrprz

Sorry Locker, I'm not disparaging the OP for a mistake. Trust me, I make my fair share each day. My point is, slam it in is "dot to dot" without measuring cam events (degreeing the cam). Yes, the motor may run well and feel good but is the cam where it's supposed to be? Measuring cam events and comparing to specs may be revealing. Only way to really know is to measure. It's very simple and worth the time and tool cost. A good read on cam timing and the impact it has on performance is very enlightening. Some insight from cam designers can be found here http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...63ead&start=45

Budget LS Guy

I'm always glad to provide feedback to help other people solve their problems. Maybe this thread will be helpful for someone else. Align the damn dots lol