A/A intercooled Whipple
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Stockbridge GA
A/A intercooled Whipple My old 2002 Silverado work truck with the non-intercooled Whipple blower kit finally has an FMIC. Unfortunately, I no longer own it. The whole time I used it as a work truck, there wasn't enough down time to do what I wanted to it. Now that my retired dad owns it as a secondary vehicle, I finally had time to mod it some more. I've had a 3" core intercooler laying around the garage for about 10 years waiting for a chance to install it. I haven't got dyno results yet, but I was able to add 6* of timing and lean out the PE with zero KR. Since it is a 4.8, and isn't above the MAF limitations, I used HPtuners 2barSD, but also kept the MAF
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,917
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From: Stockbridge GA
Relocating the IAT is simple. You either leave the MAF downstream of the intercooler, or break out the IAT wires from the MAF and plumb in a separate IAT wherever you feel it needs to be. As for plumbing the intercooler, as you know there is not room between the blower outlet and the truck intake to go in and out. I used a FAST intake to lower the inlet away from the blower outlet, but this is not an ideal solution. This requires rethinking your accessory drive pulleys, and still does not leave room for a proper inlet and outlet situation. The better way of handling this is to weld shut the factory whipple outlet, and cut another hole in the blower case. Weld an outlet pipe on and plumb from there. The only big issue with that solution is finding a good cast aluminum welder that can do the job right. Once all of this is done, your idle tuning will be a little odd because of the huge volume of air after the IAC.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,917
Likes: 909
From: Stockbridge GA
I left out a few details that will become obvious as you do this project. It really is a worthy project, but can become problematic if you don't pay attention to the details. I had idle tuning nightmares, as my IAC quit returning valid readings at almost exactly the same time that I added the FMIC. Since I expected problems, and I got what seemed like valid readings from the IAC, it took forever to realize I actually had a hardware problem. I seem to recall an issue with steam vents, as well as a coolant hose problem that were a direct result of changing intake manifolds. Of course the newfound power immediately killed the built 4l60 that had previously given no problems.
Relocating the IAT is simple. You either leave the MAF downstream of the intercooler, or break out the IAT wires from the MAF and plumb in a separate IAT wherever you feel it needs to be. As for plumbing the intercooler, as you know there is not room between the blower outlet and the truck intake to go in and out. I used a FAST intake to lower the inlet away from the blower outlet, but this is not an ideal solution. This requires rethinking your accessory drive pulleys, and still does not leave room for a proper inlet and outlet situation. The better way of handling this is to weld shut the factory whipple outlet, and cut another hole in the blower case. Weld an outlet pipe on and plumb from there. The only big issue with that solution is finding a good cast aluminum welder that can do the job right. Once all of this is done, your idle tuning will be a little odd because of the huge volume of air after the IAC.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,917
Likes: 909
From: Stockbridge GA
If you just use methanol, you could use the supplemental injector plate that comes with the sidemount whipple kit to mount meth injectors. However, you would need to relocate the IAT to the actual intake manifold to get a real reading. This should be done anyway, but it would be a pain in the ***. With an actual intercooler plumbed in, you can get real post compressor IAT readings in the intake tubing.
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