Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys jus got my car back from the dyno . Stock bottom end ls1. 78/68mm turbo meth. made 638/653. Runs and idles great. Only problem is the shop I took it to installed a breather on the driver side VC and a oil cap breather. These breathers are misting oil out on my engine bay pretty badly. I have read a little on this issue but not exactly on my build. Any help is appreciated.

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

That's the quick and dirty way to do it. Better way is to attach hoses to the covers and route them to a vented breather can. The vibrant breather catch can is very nice.

Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

Ill check into that
I was having second thoughts on the tune. I was wondering if the stock rings are giving up and the cylinder pressure is making it by the rings. Its tuned at 14lbs

Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

http://www.jegs.com/p/Vibrant-Perfor...70446/10002/-1

Is this the one you were talking about

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Mighty Mouse Catch all day everyday.
14 lbs. on a SBE LS1 is big ***** status lol.
Like a grenade with the pin half pulled.

Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

hahaha yea that's what I was thinking when the tuner said it was a "safe" tune

silvea

iTrader: (1)

Coming this winter a forged engine! Isn't a SBE LS1 only reliable to like 550hp then the pistons start to run into shattering territory? I realize meth will help but I mean >.<!! One bad situation and a lil detonation and boom she goes, or just stress over time.

sti lol

Catch can both valve covers, breathers smell and do half *** work. Vacuum catch can setup or nothing.

Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

I guess I've been wrong. everyone I have talked to said the stock bottom is good for 700 flywheel. Iam beginning to question everything. I guess im jus gonna call the dyno back and have some power taken out. Its gonna suck losing that 640 wheel but I need it last longer than what it is.
I called him earlier today and was told that if I kept an eye on the oil level it would fine the way it is.

I though the SBE started having problems stretching the rod bolts when turned to high rpm

Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

so are you saying something like the might mouse catch can would help.
Im not sure im following you right

alocker

iTrader: (10)

A lil detonation will kill any SBE, ls1 or not. At 14 lbs you are going to have considerable crank case pressure and you need to let it out. 2 -10an lines to a catch can breather works well for me. If the catch can has an oil separator it wont stink and wont spray oil all over.

sti lol

Yes sir. Brands are up to you but when you research make sure it says the word baffled and vacuum in the description. Some are baffled and don't use vacuum but from the research I just did exactly relating to this thread if they have just a breather on top and rely on mechanical pressure from the rotating assembly, the engine bay and your cockpit tend to stink like burnt oil allll the time. Ling story short I believe the mighty mouse setup is that you want. Just be prepared to weld bungs onto your valve covers with baffles under them or find valve covers ready to go.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

Its really a roll of the dice, there's a cat on here called Rawr who's been pushing 749 rwhp through a SBE LS1 with meth for a while and so far so good.
It's all in the tune and your right if longevity is a concern at all.
I wouldn't say tune it way back but I'm probably pretty close to 600 rwhp and I'm leaving it there since from everything I've read that's on the edge of longevity with a SBE LS1.
The Mighty Mouse PCV Catch Can is the cats *** btw, no oil misting or smell and keeps my intake spic and span lol.
At 14 lbs. your moving a lot of air and engine ventilation becomes much more critical so do it right.

Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

Right on thanks for the help. Im gonna try this and take a little power. Try to make it last at least a few seasons

Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

Were you able to find valve covers with bungs in them

Nismo Kid

iTrader: (3)

Something I ran into when welding bungs on my used valve covers was oil saturation. I had then blasted & tanked but oil contamination was still an issue while welding. Short passes were key. Once it would heat up to a point it would draw out oil from the pores of the metal. If I were to do it again I'd start with brand new valve covers. It's not impossible to weld bungs on used valve covers is just time consuming to get a imperfection free look. Also I recommend having the bungs further forward on valve covers. Oil tends slosh back under hard acceleration. Which then fills the catch can faster when the bungs are located further back.

Surtr66x

iTrader: (3)

I have already thought about that, what a lesson to learn the hard way. The bung I had welded on my oil pan for the drain off my turbo cracked while I was in the break in process of the clutch and rear end ( used oil pan). After researching I think the way to go is like you stated before. Placing to bungs on each valve cover to a catch can. This next part may make me sound stupid but ill ask anyways. When you run this setup what do you do with the hose off the passenger side valve cover to the TB...jus cap it?

Im also having trouble deciding on a catch can. I mean is one better than the other? I have also noticed some people are running 2. Should I follow suit for my setup.