Need some Advice on Oil MIst
Need some Advice on Oil MIst Hey guys jus got my car back from the dyno . Stock bottom end ls1. 78/68mm turbo meth. made 638/653. Runs and idles great. Only problem is the shop I took it to installed a breather on the driver side VC and a oil cap breather. These breathers are misting oil out on my engine bay pretty badly. I have read a little on this issue but not exactly on my build. Any help is appreciated.
That's the quick and dirty way to do it. Better way is to attach hoses to the covers and route them to a vented breather can. The vibrant breather catch can is very nice.
Coming this winter a forged engine! Isn't a SBE LS1 only reliable to like 550hp then the pistons start to run into shattering territory? I realize meth will help but I mean >.<!! One bad situation and a lil detonation and boom she goes, or just stress over time.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo I guess I've been wrong. everyone I have talked to said the stock bottom is good for 700 flywheel. Iam beginning to question everything. I guess im jus gonna call the dyno back and have some power taken out. Its gonna suck losing that 640 wheel but I need it last longer than what it is.
I called him earlier today and was told that if I kept an eye on the oil level it would fine the way it is.
I though the SBE started having problems stretching the rod bolts when turned to high rpm
A lil detonation will kill any SBE, ls1 or not. At 14 lbs you are going to have considerable crank case pressure and you need to let it out. 2 -10an lines to a catch can breather works well for me. If the catch can has an oil separator it wont stink and wont spray oil all over.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 27
Likes: 4
Yes sir. Brands are up to you but when you research make sure it says the word baffled and vacuum in the description. Some are baffled and don't use vacuum but from the research I just did exactly relating to this thread if they have just a breather on top and rely on mechanical pressure from the rotating assembly, the engine bay and your cockpit tend to stink like burnt oil allll the time. Ling story short I believe the mighty mouse setup is that you want. Just be prepared to weld bungs onto your valve covers with baffles under them or find valve covers ready to go.
I guess I've been wrong. everyone I have talked to said the stock bottom is good for 700 flywheel. Iam beginning to question everything. I guess im jus gonna call the dyno back and have some power taken out. Its gonna suck losing that 640 wheel but I need it last longer than what it is.
I called him earlier today and was told that if I kept an eye on the oil level it would fine the way it is.
I though the SBE started having problems stretching the rod bolts when turned to high rpm
I called him earlier today and was told that if I kept an eye on the oil level it would fine the way it is.
I though the SBE started having problems stretching the rod bolts when turned to high rpm
It's all in the tune and your right if longevity is a concern at all.
I wouldn't say tune it way back but I'm probably pretty close to 600 rwhp and I'm leaving it there since from everything I've read that's on the edge of longevity with a SBE LS1.
The Mighty Mouse PCV Catch Can is the cats *** btw, no oil misting or smell and keeps my intake spic and span lol.
At 14 lbs. your moving a lot of air and engine ventilation becomes much more critical so do it right.
Yes sir. Brands are up to you but when you research make sure it says the word baffled and vacuum in the description. Some are baffled and don't use vacuum but from the research I just did exactly relating to this thread if they have just a breather on top and rely on mechanical pressure from the rotating assembly, the engine bay and your cockpit tend to stink like burnt oil allll the time. Ling story short I believe the mighty mouse setup is that you want. Just be prepared to weld bungs onto your valve covers with baffles under them or find valve covers ready to go.
Yes sir. Brands are up to you but when you research make sure it says the word baffled and vacuum in the description. Some are baffled and don't use vacuum but from the research I just did exactly relating to this thread if they have just a breather on top and rely on mechanical pressure from the rotating assembly, the engine bay and your cockpit tend to stink like burnt oil allll the time. Ling story short I believe the mighty mouse setup is that you want. Just be prepared to weld bungs onto your valve covers with baffles under them or find valve covers ready to go.
Were you able to find valve covers with bungs in them
Something I ran into when welding bungs on my used valve covers was oil saturation. I had then blasted & tanked but oil contamination was still an issue while welding. Short passes were key. Once it would heat up to a point it would draw out oil from the pores of the metal. If I were to do it again I'd start with brand new valve covers. It's not impossible to weld bungs on used valve covers is just time consuming to get a imperfection free look. Also I recommend having the bungs further forward on valve covers. Oil tends slosh back under hard acceleration. Which then fills the catch can faster when the bungs are located further back.
Something I ran into when welding bungs on my used valve covers was oil saturation. I had then blasted & tanked but oil contamination was still an issue while welding. Short passes were key. Once it would heat up to a point it would draw out oil from the pores of the metal. If I were to do it again I'd start with brand new valve covers. It's not impossible to weld bungs on used valve covers is just time consuming to get a imperfection free look. Also I recommend having the bungs further forward on valve covers. Oil tends slosh back under hard acceleration. Which then fills the catch can faster when the bungs are located further back.
Im also having trouble deciding on a catch can. I mean is one better than the other? I have also noticed some people are running 2. Should I follow suit for my setup.
Last edited by Surtr66x; Oct 9, 2016 at 12:16 AM.