MAF questions
MAF questions Hello-
I am looking to put an LQ4 6.0 in my AMC Gremlin. I am planning to make this as sloppy mechanics as possible but am having difficulty determining what they are referring to by taking the wires out of the MAF and putting them in the IAT or MAP - I forget. Is the MAF supposed to be after the turbo before the blowoff or after the filter before the turbo? am I supposed to get rid of this MAF completely and install this 3 bar MAP somewhere instead?
I am going to use the factory harness and hptuners with my innovate wideband setup. I hope the manifolds have a current o2 tap or I will add one I suppose.
Thanks!
I am looking to put an LQ4 6.0 in my AMC Gremlin. I am planning to make this as sloppy mechanics as possible but am having difficulty determining what they are referring to by taking the wires out of the MAF and putting them in the IAT or MAP - I forget. Is the MAF supposed to be after the turbo before the blowoff or after the filter before the turbo? am I supposed to get rid of this MAF completely and install this 3 bar MAP somewhere instead?
I am going to use the factory harness and hptuners with my innovate wideband setup. I hope the manifolds have a current o2 tap or I will add one I suppose.
Thanks!
Oh that sort of makes sense now- is speed density easier to tune? I don't think I will be changing boost that much but don't really want to spend hours retuning if the MAF will sense the extra flow and compensate automatically. Also plan to drive to track and race then drive home from April to October and the weather change here in Ohio is pretty dramatic from spring summer and fall?
Hello-
I am looking to put an LQ4 6.0 in my AMC Gremlin. I am planning to make this as sloppy mechanics as possible but am having difficulty determining what they are referring to by taking the wires out of the MAF and putting them in the IAT or MAP - I forget. Is the MAF supposed to be after the turbo before the blowoff or after the filter before the turbo? am I supposed to get rid of this MAF completely and install this 3 bar MAP somewhere instead?
I am going to use the factory harness and hptuners with my innovate wideband setup. I hope the manifolds have a current o2 tap or I will add one I suppose.
Thanks!
I am looking to put an LQ4 6.0 in my AMC Gremlin. I am planning to make this as sloppy mechanics as possible but am having difficulty determining what they are referring to by taking the wires out of the MAF and putting them in the IAT or MAP - I forget. Is the MAF supposed to be after the turbo before the blowoff or after the filter before the turbo? am I supposed to get rid of this MAF completely and install this 3 bar MAP somewhere instead?
I am going to use the factory harness and hptuners with my innovate wideband setup. I hope the manifolds have a current o2 tap or I will add one I suppose.
Thanks!
Most MAFs have a built in Intake Air Temperature sensor. If you want to go SD only (which means you will NOT use the MAF), and you don't want your MAF in the way (since you aren't using it in SD mode) - you would have to cut the pigtail off the MAF plug, and wire the 2 wires (which originally went to the IAT part of the MAF) to a standalone Intake Air Temperature sensor.
OR you could simply leave your MAF in your intake assembly/plugged in, and just turn it off in the tune. You wouldn't have to mess with the wiring if you keep the MAF assembly. Again, this is assuming you have a built in IAT sensor in your MAF.
If you are NOT going SD only, then you leave your MAF in place/don't cut anything. If you will be using your MAF in the tune, it should be placed between the throttle body and BOV.
Oh that sort of makes sense now- is speed density easier to tune? I don't think I will be changing boost that much but don't really want to spend hours retuning if the MAF will sense the extra flow and compensate automatically. Also plan to drive to track and race then drive home from April to October and the weather change here in Ohio is pretty dramatic from spring summer and fall?
someone may fight me on that one though, not sure
its true. maf cars are like 30 minutes, vs a lifetime (ok, at least 3-6 hours) for map cars. I am never happy with a map tune until I get in a couple long, long drives (1000~miles of data logging) and really clean that $@!(* up.
Trending Topics
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
With a gen 3 MAF tune, you top out the MAF sensor around 550 or so HP from what I remember, so most people just go SD. You also remove the complications associated with MAF and turbos this way, like placement, flow restriction, and the car dying on you if you blow off an IC pipe post-MAF.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,280
Likes: 28
From: Pittsboro, IN
With a gen 3 MAF tune, you top out the MAF sensor around 550 or so HP from what I remember, so most people just go SD. You also remove the complications associated with MAF and turbos this way, like placement, flow restriction, and the car dying on you if you blow off an IC pipe post-MAF.
MAF's work very well for lower power non-turbo cars. SD is much more turbo friendly and won't leave you stranded if you blow a hole in a coupler. As for ease or tuning, MAF if likely easier on a stock ecu. Or just get an aftermarket ecu that will dang near fully tune itself.
I Agree about "low power"- if low power is sub 500 horses. If you aren't making 450+ you should probably be using a maf.
All popular turbo cars from 1991 to 2002+ (from that point, many of them went to dual maf/map together on the same engine) such as skyline, silvia, rx-7, supra, etc... ALL used the MAF sensor, PRE-turbo. It was both feasible and economical for nearly every auto-manufacturer and still is highly desirable for it's ability to negate wandering atmospheric conditions within a wide range.
I Agree about "low power"- if low power is sub 500 horses. If you aren't making 450+ you should probably be using a maf.
I Agree about "low power"- if low power is sub 500 horses. If you aren't making 450+ you should probably be using a maf.
Maf is WAY easier and quicker to tune. I've always kept the Maf on boosted setups I've tuned. Typically you will hit the max lb/min of airflow (64) before you hit the max frequency of the maf (12.5khz or 15khz depending on year). The way around this is to scale the entire tune and use a larger tube and maf like the ls7 cartridge maf in a 4 inch tube. I have logs proving 900fwhp through the maf when I turned the boost up on my old car and it had the driveability of a stock car.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Maf is WAY easier and quicker to tune. I've always kept the Maf on boosted setups I've tuned. Typically you will hit the max lb/min of airflow (64) before you hit the max frequency of the maf (12.5khz or 15khz depending on year). The way around this is to scale the entire tune and use a larger tube and maf like the ls7 cartridge maf in a 4 inch tube. I have logs proving 900fwhp through the maf when I turned the boost up on my old car and it had the driveability of a stock car.
Maf is WAY easier and quicker to tune. I've always kept the Maf on boosted setups I've tuned. Typically you will hit the max lb/min of airflow (64) before you hit the max frequency of the maf (12.5khz or 15khz depending on year). The way around this is to scale the entire tune and use a larger tube and maf like the ls7 cartridge maf in a 4 inch tube. I have logs proving 900fwhp through the maf when I turned the boost up on my old car and it had the driveability of a stock car.
EBay sells a plug and play ls7 to ls1 maf harness adapter for like 20 bucks, it's a piece of cake. As far as "scaling the tune" you take a given tune file and adjust any air and fuel tables by a percentage so everything appears smaller. Example, I had 60lb injectors which I scaled by 60% so the pcm thinks they're 36lb injectors, and did the same for all g/sec tables involving airflow. Basically everything acts the same and functions the same but the pcm thinks the air and fuel used is less than actual. This allows you to make more hp without hitting the hard limits defined in the pcm. As far as the pcm knows the engine was consuming 60% less air and fuel, but because the percentage was constant it ran just like the original values....except without the airflow limitation. Greg Banish has videos on this stuff and it flat out works.