Question about FI power...
Question about FI power... Im an ex (sorta) spray junkie. Ive been looking through the FI forum for a loooong time now and have a question. How come you dont see the high HP numbers with blown/ turbo cars? I was serious about building a turbo setup since you can now buy the hard piping from SW, but I dont see the big numbers (600+). I would want 600+ for driving around and maybe 700+ with race gas and a turn of a **** 
Im not looking for 1/4 mile ETs, just street duty. You can easily get 650+ from a sprayed motor. I think the average Im finding is 500 here (no offence, but it actually doesnt impress me 
) since I make ~440 N/A in FL. 
I need some edumacation
Im not looking for 1/4 mile ETs, just street duty. You can easily get 650+ from a sprayed motor. I think the average Im finding is 500 here (no offence, but it actually doesnt impress me ) since I make ~440 N/A in FL. I need some edumacation
Hi Carl, Nice to see you in here and taking an interest in FI. I think you will be seeing the numbers you are looking for happening more often. Us ATI guys have finally found a system that limits the belt slip( SDCE ) and the turbo guys are starting to come out of the wood work(QMP/SW cars, STS and a few ambitious home made kits). More than anything holding a lot of people back from making big power is the ability to get the car tuned right. Take my car for example. It should be making a lot more power than it does now, but my tune isn't dialed in but we are getting there. Once I get a FMIC and see 15+psi and the right tune the car should be making some impressive power. FI is a pain in the *** and it requires a lot of time and money to make it put down big power, but once you do have everything dialed you can be sure that you have a wicked street strip car that doesn't need a bottle to get jobs done, but you can always leave the N2O on for some more
But you have the right idea in your sig- Confucius say: "Man with most money go fastest"
but it would be, man with access to dyno, wicked tuner and money has one fast *** FI car.
5 liter eater for instance has a wicked tuner and 346 h/c D1-SC set up he made 600rwhp with only 8 or 9psi if I remember right. That is awesome.
My .02
J
But you have the right idea in your sig- Confucius say: "Man with most money go fastest"
but it would be, man with access to dyno, wicked tuner and money has one fast *** FI car.
5 liter eater for instance has a wicked tuner and 346 h/c D1-SC set up he made 600rwhp with only 8 or 9psi if I remember right. That is awesome.
My .02
J
Originally Posted by frcefed98
Hi Carl, Nice to see you in here and taking an interest in FI. I think you will be seeing the numbers you are looking for happening more often. Us ATI guys have finally found a system that limits the belt slip( SDCE ) and the turbo guys are starting to come out of the wood work(QMP/SW cars, STS and a few ambitious home made kits). More than anything holding a lot of people back from making big power is the ability to get the car tuned right. Take my car for example. It should be making a lot more power than it does now, but my tune isn't dialed in but we are getting there. Once I get a FMIC and see 15+psi and the right tune the car should be making some impressive power. FI is a pain in the *** and it requires a lot of time and money to make it put down big power, but once you do have everything dialed you can be sure that you have a wicked street strip car that doesn't need a bottle to get jobs done, but you can always leave the N2O on for some more
But you have the right idea in your sig- Confucius say: "Man with most money go fastest"
but it would be, man with access to dyno, wicked tuner and money has one fast *** FI car.
5 liter eater for instance has a wicked tuner and 346 h/c D1-SC set up he made 600rwhp with only 8 or 9psi if I remember right. That is awesome.
My .02
J
But you have the right idea in your sig- Confucius say: "Man with most money go fastest"
but it would be, man with access to dyno, wicked tuner and money has one fast *** FI car.
5 liter eater for instance has a wicked tuner and 346 h/c D1-SC set up he made 600rwhp with only 8 or 9psi if I remember right. That is awesome.
My .02
J
Im willing to bet you will be in the 10's before me though 
Originally Posted by frcefed98
Hi Carl, Nice to see you in here and taking an interest in FI. I think you will be seeing the numbers you are looking for happening more often. Us ATI guys have finally found a system that limits the belt slip( SDCE ) and the turbo guys are starting to come out of the wood work(QMP/SW cars, STS and a few ambitious home made kits). More than anything holding a lot of people back from making big power is the ability to get the car tuned right. Take my car for example. It should be making a lot more power than it does now, but my tune isn't dialed in but we are getting there. Once I get a FMIC and see 15+psi and the right tune the car should be making some impressive power. FI is a pain in the *** and it requires a lot of time and money to make it put down big power, but once you do have everything dialed you can be sure that you have a wicked street strip car that doesn't need a bottle to get jobs done, but you can always leave the N2O on for some more
But you have the right idea in your sig- Confucius say: "Man with most money go fastest"
but it would be, man with access to dyno, wicked tuner and money has one fast *** FI car.
5 liter eater for instance has a wicked tuner and 346 h/c D1-SC set up he made 600rwhp with only 8 or 9psi if I remember right. That is awesome.
My .02
J
But you have the right idea in your sig- Confucius say: "Man with most money go fastest"
but it would be, man with access to dyno, wicked tuner and money has one fast *** FI car.
5 liter eater for instance has a wicked tuner and 346 h/c D1-SC set up he made 600rwhp with only 8 or 9psi if I remember right. That is awesome.
My .02
J
I dont want to spray anymore because Im tired of getting bottles filled and really could only use it one night a week I want all the time power. I like the SC because they are simplier because you dont have the crazy exhaust routing, but the belt problems, crank pully slippage and take power to make power thing. Turbos are good because of the waste to make power but ALOT of pipe routing and other stuff.I have access to a dyno and a great tuner. We have a local car making ~600 RWHP on a D1 kit and then he sprays it with a small shot. I just didnt want all the headaches Ive been reading about with trying the cogs, new tensioners, belts, pulleys...
Adkoonerstrator
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From: Deep in the seedy underworld of Koonerville
Stay with your 11:1 engine and just run 6psi or get the AFR's and try to drop your cr to around 10.5:1 and run 7-8psi.
You'll make great power under boost and have plenty of power down low for just driving around with the higher compression ratio.
Not the best setup for an "all out" FI car but, would make a mean daily driveable street setup IMHO.
I think the SDCE setup has cured the belt slip issues with the ATI setup and running lower boost will definately be extra insurance as the blower doesn't have to work as hard compressing the air.
You'll make great power under boost and have plenty of power down low for just driving around with the higher compression ratio.
Not the best setup for an "all out" FI car but, would make a mean daily driveable street setup IMHO.
I think the SDCE setup has cured the belt slip issues with the ATI setup and running lower boost will definately be extra insurance as the blower doesn't have to work as hard compressing the air.
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Interesting, but with the year around heat we have here, wouldnt the 11:1 with boost be a bad combination for detionation or less power due to lower timing? Our average temps are 80+ with 80%+ humidity all year.
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Verdad Gallardo Adkoonerstrator
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From: Deep in the seedy underworld of Koonerville
80% humidity is like having water injection.
That type of weather could cause problems with higher compression and boost. Maybe some of the AZ, TX, and FL guys can chime in with their experiences. I never ran more than 5psi on a stock LS1 so I can't really comment.
That type of weather could cause problems with higher compression and boost. Maybe some of the AZ, TX, and FL guys can chime in with their experiences. I never ran more than 5psi on a stock LS1 so I can't really comment.
Originally Posted by Country Boy
Interesting, but with the year around heat we have here, wouldnt the 11:1 with boost be a bad combination for detionation or less power due to lower timing? Our average temps are 80+ with 80%+ humidity all year.
If I didn't order my 6.0L heads, I would most likely run it like this for a while.
D-1R For sale I have a 95 Z28 with a D-1 with the stock PCM ,pump gas and put 648 RWHP and 603 torque.I have a D-1R for sale,This is bigger than the F-1 and D-1.This one flows 2000 cfm.It is the head unit only,but I have searched different forums and found everything to complete a kit for less than $3000.00.I am asking $1700.00 or best offer for this blower.it is in perfect condition.If you want serious horsepower then this is the blower for you!!
With this NM heat at 6psi non intercooled I ran into detonation pretty easy all it took was an 80 deg day and FUGEDABOUTIT. With intercooling I was able to run 9-12psi with a little detonation on a 90-95deg day. That was with the stock 10.1-1 compression ratio. Get some good 6.0 heads and try to knock it down from there...or get some low compression pistions and ........ see we are already spending your money
I hear you about the bottle.....do you fill your own or do you buy from a source? If you do go s/c'ed and ATI, make sure you look at the SDCE 8 rib set up, it rocks. I am fine tuning mine now and I am having great results.
5 liter...."591 rwhp 512 tq at 6psi and 6400 rpms last time I dynoed"= GOSH DAMN! I gotta get my memory checked. That is freakin awesome! If you need any info on the filter set up don't be afraid to ask. I can't wait till you dyno with 10psi showing on the ol gauge. I hope to hit a 6.90-6.99 in the 1/8th real soon. Damn track came down on me for not having a roll bar in so I have to make 1/8mi passes until my last pass
The car was movin' last week and hope it does the same this friday
I hear you about the bottle.....do you fill your own or do you buy from a source? If you do go s/c'ed and ATI, make sure you look at the SDCE 8 rib set up, it rocks. I am fine tuning mine now and I am having great results.
5 liter...."591 rwhp 512 tq at 6psi and 6400 rpms last time I dynoed"= GOSH DAMN! I gotta get my memory checked. That is freakin awesome! If you need any info on the filter set up don't be afraid to ask. I can't wait till you dyno with 10psi showing on the ol gauge. I hope to hit a 6.90-6.99 in the 1/8th real soon. Damn track came down on me for not having a roll bar in so I have to make 1/8mi passes until my last pass
The car was movin' last week and hope it does the same this friday 
TECH Fanatic
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From: Germantown, MD
I think you have to keep in mind that the LS1 isn't designed for FI. So it takes more work on this side of the ball. I think that's why stock engine FIs have a little trouble getting over the 500 mark. That being said there are inherant advantages to FI. As you stated N20 is only available in small doses, not on demand. When heads and cam cars get above 450-460rwhp they tend to have a very harsh ride and feel more like track cars with tags than sports cars. FI gives you a civil ride down low, but loads of power when you drop the hammer. FI cars are now the fastest and our lead will only grow in time. Because of the LS1s high compression it took a while for FI to take off. But more and more are jumping on board which will only help the knowledge base and expense of this route.
As for Turbo v. Blower... Do you like to drive or mod? Most Trubo guys I know spend more time modding and/or fixing than they do driving. Turbos can be a real handful for a novice. If you have experience and feel confident, go for it. Blowers are more predictable, easier on the engine, and easier to tune. Just my humble opinion.
Mike
As for Turbo v. Blower... Do you like to drive or mod? Most Trubo guys I know spend more time modding and/or fixing than they do driving. Turbos can be a real handful for a novice. If you have experience and feel confident, go for it. Blowers are more predictable, easier on the engine, and easier to tune. Just my humble opinion.
Mike
i dont think you were looking had enough & i cant decide if this is a nitrous vs. post or not..
i dont know too many guys hitting a 250 shot on top of a stock motor.. you talking stock motor here?
my motor only made 300rw n/a so i guess you could say i'ts like a progressive 400 shot
i agree you dont see 'too many' big hp numbers.. but to say you dont see any is incorrect.... but the list is always growing.... just like you said nitrous is easier.
if you are interested in using the stainless works parts, be sure to get a t-76 on it or 1+ exhaust housing on a smaller turbo if you want a shot at 600rw.
i dont know too many guys hitting a 250 shot on top of a stock motor.. you talking stock motor here?
my motor only made 300rw n/a so i guess you could say i'ts like a progressive 400 shot
i agree you dont see 'too many' big hp numbers.. but to say you dont see any is incorrect.... but the list is always growing.... just like you said nitrous is easier.
if you are interested in using the stainless works parts, be sure to get a t-76 on it or 1+ exhaust housing on a smaller turbo if you want a shot at 600rw.