Best factory motor for boost
Best factory motor for boost Just like the title says, what do you think is the best factory motor for boost? I currently have a lq4 in my swapped 240sx. It threw a rod the other day for no apparent reason and put a hole in both sides of the block. So I need to get a new motor. I was planning on running around 15psi on the stock bottom end. So should I go with another 6.0 if I can find one or should I go with a 5.3? Not sure what other info I need to provide.
Well I wasn't worried about anything when I built this car. It ran great NA. But the day I got the turbo on it threw the rod, that scared me which is why I'm asking. This motor had conservative timing, 8psi spring in the wastegate, and was a bit on the rich side. Everything was safe but a rod still let go for some reason.
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Well I wasn't worried about anything when I built this car. It ran great NA. But the day I got the turbo on it threw the rod, that scared me which is why I'm asking. This motor had conservative timing, 8psi spring in the wastegate, and was a bit on the rich side. Everything was safe but a rod still let go for some reason.
Yeah first day. 10* timing, 8psi, and between 10.0:1 and 10.5:1 AFR. May have been a lack of oil but I don't know at this point because I have not taken anything apart yet. I would like another 6.0 but they are hard to find around here and I'm not sure how much of a difference it actually makes for me.
edit- The 4.8L is best for boost by default. The combination of the short stroke, thickest cylinder walls, and lightest pistons make it the most forgiving. The fact that they are generally cheapest doesn't hurt either.
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I have AEM on the car. I used the boost comp table for fuel and verified AFR was safe till I could make it to the dyno. For timing I set it at 10* at 1 bar of boost and interpolated between where it's been set at atmosphere. Looking at my timing table it would be between 14.6* and 16* timing at the 8psi depending on what rpm you're looking at.
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Verdad Gallardo RPM is one thing that came to mind for me. I wish I had my laptop hooked up so I could see exactly what was going on. I was doing a burnout when it happened. My rev limiter is set to cut ignition at 6,200RPM and fuel at 6,300RPM.
If the rev limiter did in fact work, those rpm's aren't a problem. From the details you have provided, however, either you had a highly unusual premature hard part failure, or something in the ECM didn't do as commanded. You mention a possible oil issue. Did you drill the pan for an oil return without removing it? People usually get lucky with that, but metal shavings can get in bad places.
If the rev limiter did in fact work, those rpm's aren't a problem. From the details you have provided, however, either you had a highly unusual premature hard part failure, or something in the ECM didn't do as commanded. You mention a possible oil issue. Did you drill the pan for an oil return without removing it? People usually get lucky with that, but metal shavings can get in bad places.
I would say an l33 block with 4.8 rotating assembly would probably be best for boost using stick parts. I plan to build one for my car at some point. I have a full gen3.5 4.8 rotating assenbly ready to go, just need to find a block to stuff it in.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Bowling Green KY
Wouldn't an LS9 or LSA with oil squirters on the pistons be best? Since they are designed for forced induction? I do realize the cost and rarity of them, but as the question asks, would they not be the best choices?
Last edited by ScottyBG; Dec 12, 2016 at 11:21 PM. Reason: spelling
If you care about the engine, cut fuel well before ignition.
Also for the sake of bouncing off a rev limiter, such as when during a burn out, I would set it much lower. In other words, if you arn't racing for money or some kind of competition, why use a high rev limit? instead, use a low limit, like 5500~, that way you can bounce all day without issue, the engine just laughs.
When you go to actually race, or win money, you can risk the engine and raise the limiter.
same idea with the filter. Use a high quality Paper-OEM style filter for daily driving and messing around. when you goto race the car, use a high flow filter for max power. switch back to paper element for 99% street/daily style driving, if you do any at all. If you care about the engine.
Good idea, piston oil squirt tech is used on many forced induction OEM turbo platforms like sr20 and 2jzgte. If you can get access to it, it seems a valuable addition. Those engines use cast aluminum pistons fwiw, so it might not benefit a forging the same way/as much. just food, I never tested the difference.
Also for the sake of bouncing off a rev limiter, such as when during a burn out, I would set it much lower. In other words, if you arn't racing for money or some kind of competition, why use a high rev limit? instead, use a low limit, like 5500~, that way you can bounce all day without issue, the engine just laughs.
When you go to actually race, or win money, you can risk the engine and raise the limiter.
same idea with the filter. Use a high quality Paper-OEM style filter for daily driving and messing around. when you goto race the car, use a high flow filter for max power. switch back to paper element for 99% street/daily style driving, if you do any at all. If you care about the engine.
Good idea, piston oil squirt tech is used on many forced induction OEM turbo platforms like sr20 and 2jzgte. If you can get access to it, it seems a valuable addition. Those engines use cast aluminum pistons fwiw, so it might not benefit a forging the same way/as much. just food, I never tested the difference.
Does anybody know what rod gets oil first? I think the number 1 rod is what let go. If this is the last rod to get oil I could see that rod being a clue. After looking at it I am thinking more and more about oil. My welder moved my remote mount filter housing to make room for the y-pipe. After looking at the filter housing I noticed that now the AN lines have a few extreme angles. No external signs of them being completely kinked but the inside is definitely restricted at least some now.
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Kinda sounds like your in Aus. Mate I've got a 5.3 for sale if you'd like to go that route. As suggested earlier the smaller truck motors lend themselves to boost slightly better and still make stupid power. I'm in Brisbane.
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From: Pittsboro, IN
Yeah first day. 10* timing, 8psi, and between 10.0:1 and 10.5:1 AFR. May have been a lack of oil but I don't know at this point because I have not taken anything apart yet. I would like another 6.0 but they are hard to find around here and I'm not sure how much of a difference it actually makes for me.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Norn Iron
If you care about the engine, cut fuel well before ignition.
Also for the sake of bouncing off a rev limiter, such as when during a burn out, I would set it much lower. In other words, if you arn't racing for money or some kind of competition, why use a high rev limit? instead, use a low limit, like 5500~, that way you can bounce all day without issue, the engine just laughs.
When you go to actually race, or win money, you can risk the engine and raise the limiter.
same idea with the filter. Use a high quality Paper-OEM style filter for daily driving and messing around. when you goto race the car, use a high flow filter for max power. switch back to paper element for 99% street/daily style driving, if you do any at all. If you care about the engine.
Good idea, piston oil squirt tech is used on many forced induction OEM turbo platforms like sr20 and 2jzgte. If you can get access to it, it seems a valuable addition. Those engines use cast aluminum pistons fwiw, so it might not benefit a forging the same way/as much. just food, I never tested the difference.
Also for the sake of bouncing off a rev limiter, such as when during a burn out, I would set it much lower. In other words, if you arn't racing for money or some kind of competition, why use a high rev limit? instead, use a low limit, like 5500~, that way you can bounce all day without issue, the engine just laughs.
When you go to actually race, or win money, you can risk the engine and raise the limiter.
same idea with the filter. Use a high quality Paper-OEM style filter for daily driving and messing around. when you goto race the car, use a high flow filter for max power. switch back to paper element for 99% street/daily style driving, if you do any at all. If you care about the engine.
Good idea, piston oil squirt tech is used on many forced induction OEM turbo platforms like sr20 and 2jzgte. If you can get access to it, it seems a valuable addition. Those engines use cast aluminum pistons fwiw, so it might not benefit a forging the same way/as much. just food, I never tested the difference.
If budget permits, the LSA would make a lot of sense, it also uses larger head studs too I believe ? Never a bad thing.
Or those LSX376 B8 and B15 seem to get good reports and hold up to boost well, although at the penalty of a heavy iron block.
On a real budget though...pretty much any engine will do, the more recent the better.
I'm pulling the motor out tomorrow and will hopefully have a new motor in on Sunday.