The "Semi-Sloppy" Plan: Turbo 4.8
01-02-2017, 10:07 PM
#1
The "Semi-Sloppy" Plan: Turbo 4.8... Err 5.3? WTF?! Soooo... this finally happened. Brought home a sad little 4.8L "LR4" out of a '99 Silverado with 200K+ kms. Going to be tossing this in the MCSS once the wagon is complete.
- Stock Bottom End 4.8L (gap the rings (maybe) and dingle-ball the cylinders (maybe), and pin the crank);
- port and shim the stock oil pump;
- reuse the tired-*** LS2 timing chain from my TBSS with a TFS damper and the equally used LS2 lifters; and
- Some sort of oil pan that fits a G-body (eBay?);
- 241 heads from our LS1 (flow more thanks to bigger valves and drops the compression to about 9:1, might even do a little porting) and some cheap MLS head gaskets (not paying LS9 prices) like taking some stock LS1 units, rob the guts, and make a DIY 7-layer setup;
- Find some gently used dual valve springs and 7.4 pushrods;
- Stab in the janky (and probably whiny) Comp 226/230 .605"/.608" 113+3 (LXL lobes) cam I cannot seem to sell;
- Force a set of ARP head studs into the block because they wouldn't go into our LS1 (Thanks for that, ARP!);
- 80pph Deka injectors;
- TBSS intake (for now) and some sort of rail and regulator solution (eBay?), and a 90mm Chinese DBC throttlebody (or the stock 78mm TB and an adapter);
- Walbro 450 (or two) and hotwire (aka. an overpriced relay (or two)) pushing fuel into a -10 AN line (I'll figure out something for a 3/8" return later);
- a Straub trunnion upgrade (or push my luck and run the rocker arms stock);
- truck exhaust manifold turbo setup (maybe send the downpipe out of the fender or hood?); and
- a fast spooling turbo (nope, no intercooler, methanol injection or E85 is an ideal solution).
Hopefully this thing will spin to 7000+rpm, make 500hp at the wheels, and put a smile on my face.
I am either going to back this with a 200-4R (3000 stall), and 4.56s (and a 28+ inch tire); or dump the 200-4R for a close ratio Magnum T56/TR6060 swap.
- Stock Bottom End 4.8L (gap the rings (maybe) and dingle-ball the cylinders (maybe), and pin the crank);
- port and shim the stock oil pump;
- reuse the tired-*** LS2 timing chain from my TBSS with a TFS damper and the equally used LS2 lifters; and
- Some sort of oil pan that fits a G-body (eBay?);
- 241 heads from our LS1 (flow more thanks to bigger valves and drops the compression to about 9:1, might even do a little porting) and some cheap MLS head gaskets (not paying LS9 prices) like taking some stock LS1 units, rob the guts, and make a DIY 7-layer setup;
- Find some gently used dual valve springs and 7.4 pushrods;
- Stab in the janky (and probably whiny) Comp 226/230 .605"/.608" 113+3 (LXL lobes) cam I cannot seem to sell;
- Force a set of ARP head studs into the block because they wouldn't go into our LS1 (Thanks for that, ARP!);
- 80pph Deka injectors;
- TBSS intake (for now) and some sort of rail and regulator solution (eBay?), and a 90mm Chinese DBC throttlebody (or the stock 78mm TB and an adapter);
- Walbro 450 (or two) and hotwire (aka. an overpriced relay (or two)) pushing fuel into a -10 AN line (I'll figure out something for a 3/8" return later);
- a Straub trunnion upgrade (or push my luck and run the rocker arms stock);
- truck exhaust manifold turbo setup (maybe send the downpipe out of the fender or hood?); and
- a fast spooling turbo (nope, no intercooler, methanol injection or E85 is an ideal solution).
Hopefully this thing will spin to 7000+rpm, make 500hp at the wheels, and put a smile on my face.
I am either going to back this with a 200-4R (3000 stall), and 4.56s (and a 28+ inch tire); or dump the 200-4R for a close ratio Magnum T56/TR6060 swap.
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; 01-22-2018 at 01:07 PM.
01-04-2017, 08:58 AM
#5
Unfortunately they are what's in the 8.5" right now. I'd like to run 3.73s or 3.42s but that is an additional cost; and that would come when I go to an S60 or 9". In the meantime to mask the issue I am going to run tall tires, which I prefer the looks of anyway. 
Ha! I wish I could go "Full Sloppy" (tm).
Thanks, this one should be a fun longer term build that gets back to basics and not spending money where it isn't required.
Ha! I wish I could go "Full Sloppy" (tm).
Thanks, this one should be a fun longer term build that gets back to basics and not spending money where it isn't required.
01-06-2017, 11:41 AM
#7
I paid $250 CDN for the engine complete (missing a few nuts and bolts and a couple of broken plastic bits) including most of the harness, the starter, alternator, PS pump, fuse block, and 0411 ecm. Popped the plugs out, (clean for being original and I am sure a series of cold starts before being yanked) and it spun over very easily.
As for the 200-4R it is again what I have and it is really well built, so it is going in; and adapting it is easy enough.
As for the 200-4R it is again what I have and it is really well built, so it is going in; and adapting it is easy enough.
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; 01-06-2017 at 04:09 PM.
Trending Topics
01-22-2018, 12:54 PM
#10
Here is a loooong overdue update from the work I did over the Christmas holidays (the following is a cut and past from another build thread; pardon the past tense).
---
Decided that on my first day of vacation that I should tear into Quagmire. Not nearly as crusty as I expected... in fact the engine is really clean throughout and the pistons tops wiped clean with WD40 and paper towel. The well informed viewer will notice the dished pistons which are an immediate indicator of a 5.3L, and not the 4.8L I thought I had/wanted. FML.
Cleaned the cylinder decks and chased the bolt holes, drilled and tapped the valley cover and added a PCV port (hogged the fitting out to 1/4"), slapped a used '02 LS1 cam in (reused the stock lifters, trays, retainer plate, and timing set).
---
Couple of things I like to do when reworking a stock oil pump:
1. Port it for better flow and less restriction;
2. Lap the faces of the housing, plate, and inner and outer rotors - 1000 grit;
3. Shim the relief spring (used .125") this time; and
4. Pack that bitch with Vaseline and break-in lube.
Oh and blue Loctite on the bolts.
---
Chopped the windage tray, Holley's instructions were "adequate". I don't envy the average dude/dudette trying to transpose the dimensions or chop this thing down with any degree of accuracy.
Popped the pick up tube and windage tray on tonight. Ported the oil pan at the filter inlet/outlet; the Holley came out of the box nicer than an OEM pan, but still needed some improvement. Next up is making a baffle to control oil slosh under hard acceleration.
---
Built the baffle, and by my well trained eye it will keep 75% of the volume forward under load. Given that is only about 4L, it really isn't great - the dip stick shows how close the oil line will be to the windage tray. Long and short of it is Holley is giving up a lot of oil capacity for ground clearance. Their recommended fill is 6.1L with a standard filter, I have a K&N HP-2011 on there (same as my TBSS) which is a long filter - I'd guess this is good for a 6.5 to 6.75L fill without putting the crank in an oil bath.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-thread-3.html
Oh and I converted the non-magnetic oil plug Holley supplied into a more useful one (yes, that is a press-fit).
---
And just like that we have a completed shortblock... let's port some heads.
---
Started farting around with the heads. Improving the CSA and flow a bit - I am not looking to become a human CNC machine. 8 intake ports roughed in.
---
All 8 intake ports done (might hit them with a cartridge roll for feel good flow). You can definitely tell I have never ported cylinder heads before.
These Castech heads are total garbage (the casting boogers were a fun find) - fortunately these pre-date the 2006 heads that tend to crack. I've done about a 70% solution on these - which will yield a 90% result for flow. That last 30% of effort will take as long as the first 70%... and I am not into racing flow benches.
By the time these are bolted back on and running, and packed full of oil, varnish, and carbon no one will even notice the blemishes. God knows it has no effect on their functionality.
---
Did 8 exhaust ports today. I have about 20 hours in these heads thus far; at my billable rate I am not ahead of the game. But, the experience is what I am going for here.
I still have to clean the decks, lap the valves, and pull a few broken studs.
---
Cleaned the heads up (looks like one cylinder ate something it shouldn't have), pulled 3 busted bolts, cleaned and lapped the valves, put the 100K mile LS2/6 valve springs on (with new seals, retainers, and keepers - all left overs from the TSP heads on the wagon), and set them in place on ol' Quagmire over some stock MLS 4.8/5.3 gaskets. I am reusing the stock TTY bolts - cleaned the threads; and put ARP lube on the threads, under the heads, and on the shoulders as it makes torquing them smoother. Right now they are sitting at the initial torque spec until tomorrow(?).
EDIT: I meant to add that I broke all of the sharp edges with a smooth tooth file before sanding the decks with 220 grit and WD40 - it prevents the sandpaper from catching, and will save the head gaskets from being nicked if you lay the head down funny. I also took the edges off the combustion chambers with 220 grit - beats having hot spots.
---
Installed the balancer and pinned the crank, bolted on the valve covers and some D585 heat sink coils, the ported LS6 intake and throttle body - plus added some 80lb/hr injectors, chased all the holes in the block with a tap, put the Metaltek engine mounts on, the ICT alternator-only FEAD, the eBay turdbo headers, and test fit the janky old downpipes I made for a SBC (the PS needs some attention for the heater lines) - otherwise they should work.
---
Decided that on my first day of vacation that I should tear into Quagmire. Not nearly as crusty as I expected... in fact the engine is really clean throughout and the pistons tops wiped clean with WD40 and paper towel. The well informed viewer will notice the dished pistons which are an immediate indicator of a 5.3L, and not the 4.8L I thought I had/wanted. FML.
Cleaned the cylinder decks and chased the bolt holes, drilled and tapped the valley cover and added a PCV port (hogged the fitting out to 1/4"), slapped a used '02 LS1 cam in (reused the stock lifters, trays, retainer plate, and timing set).
---
Couple of things I like to do when reworking a stock oil pump:
1. Port it for better flow and less restriction;
2. Lap the faces of the housing, plate, and inner and outer rotors - 1000 grit;
3. Shim the relief spring (used .125") this time; and
4. Pack that bitch with Vaseline and break-in lube.
Oh and blue Loctite on the bolts.
---
Chopped the windage tray, Holley's instructions were "adequate". I don't envy the average dude/dudette trying to transpose the dimensions or chop this thing down with any degree of accuracy.
Popped the pick up tube and windage tray on tonight. Ported the oil pan at the filter inlet/outlet; the Holley came out of the box nicer than an OEM pan, but still needed some improvement. Next up is making a baffle to control oil slosh under hard acceleration.
---
Built the baffle, and by my well trained eye it will keep 75% of the volume forward under load. Given that is only about 4L, it really isn't great - the dip stick shows how close the oil line will be to the windage tray. Long and short of it is Holley is giving up a lot of oil capacity for ground clearance. Their recommended fill is 6.1L with a standard filter, I have a K&N HP-2011 on there (same as my TBSS) which is a long filter - I'd guess this is good for a 6.5 to 6.75L fill without putting the crank in an oil bath.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-thread-3.html
Oh and I converted the non-magnetic oil plug Holley supplied into a more useful one (yes, that is a press-fit).
---
And just like that we have a completed shortblock... let's port some heads.
---
Started farting around with the heads. Improving the CSA and flow a bit - I am not looking to become a human CNC machine. 8 intake ports roughed in.
---
All 8 intake ports done (might hit them with a cartridge roll for feel good flow). You can definitely tell I have never ported cylinder heads before.
These Castech heads are total garbage (the casting boogers were a fun find) - fortunately these pre-date the 2006 heads that tend to crack. I've done about a 70% solution on these - which will yield a 90% result for flow. That last 30% of effort will take as long as the first 70%... and I am not into racing flow benches.
By the time these are bolted back on and running, and packed full of oil, varnish, and carbon no one will even notice the blemishes. God knows it has no effect on their functionality.
---
Did 8 exhaust ports today. I have about 20 hours in these heads thus far; at my billable rate I am not ahead of the game. But, the experience is what I am going for here.
I still have to clean the decks, lap the valves, and pull a few broken studs.
---
Cleaned the heads up (looks like one cylinder ate something it shouldn't have), pulled 3 busted bolts, cleaned and lapped the valves, put the 100K mile LS2/6 valve springs on (with new seals, retainers, and keepers - all left overs from the TSP heads on the wagon), and set them in place on ol' Quagmire over some stock MLS 4.8/5.3 gaskets. I am reusing the stock TTY bolts - cleaned the threads; and put ARP lube on the threads, under the heads, and on the shoulders as it makes torquing them smoother. Right now they are sitting at the initial torque spec until tomorrow(?).
EDIT: I meant to add that I broke all of the sharp edges with a smooth tooth file before sanding the decks with 220 grit and WD40 - it prevents the sandpaper from catching, and will save the head gaskets from being nicked if you lay the head down funny. I also took the edges off the combustion chambers with 220 grit - beats having hot spots.
---
Installed the balancer and pinned the crank, bolted on the valve covers and some D585 heat sink coils, the ported LS6 intake and throttle body - plus added some 80lb/hr injectors, chased all the holes in the block with a tap, put the Metaltek engine mounts on, the ICT alternator-only FEAD, the eBay turdbo headers, and test fit the janky old downpipes I made for a SBC (the PS needs some attention for the heater lines) - otherwise they should work.
01-22-2018, 01:02 PM
#12
So long story short - it is just a '99 5.3L with an LS1 cam in it, and some lightly ported 706s. Tada! Talk about being disappointed.
The good news is this little fella was brought home for New Years! Measuring in at 4.8L exactly. It is an '01 and I actually got to scan the computer before it got yanked - brought the whole thing home (pan to intake, harness, ecm, etc) for $500 Canuckistan buckaroos. So, I get to start all over again - later.
The good news is this little fella was brought home for New Years! Measuring in at 4.8L exactly. It is an '01 and I actually got to scan the computer before it got yanked - brought the whole thing home (pan to intake, harness, ecm, etc) for $500 Canuckistan buckaroos. So, I get to start all over again - later.
01-23-2018, 08:41 AM
#14
Different strokes I suppose. But, thanks for weighing in.
