Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

*The ulitmate street/strip build* F1C procharged trans am ws6 ~pic heavy~

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Old 02-03-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
I like that intercooler setup. That's the Bell 4.5" they sell? It's not on Huron speed's site, but is an upgrade on their turbo kits. What's the pricing like on that? Less than the ATI Unit?
Yes it is, I was thinking it was on their website somewhere as an upgrade...maybe not tho. Honestly I can't remember how much it was, i bought it about 6 months ago or more! Its expensive
Old 02-04-2017, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
I like that intercooler setup. That's the Bell 4.5" they sell? It's not on Huron speed's site, but is an upgrade on their turbo kits. What's the pricing like on that? Less than the ATI Unit?
I ended up buying the intercooler, mounting bracket, and cold side piping from huron speed. Their piping is stainless steel vs the procharger mild steel. It looks a lot nicer IMO and is cheaper. The only pipe that will need to be modified a bit I'm guessing is from the procharger to the intercooler. But not expecting to be too much.
Old 02-04-2017, 10:24 AM
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I don't know if it matters, but the BOV flange is on the cold side with the turbo kit piping and ATI seems to prefer them on the hot side. Because it really isn't a BOV and is more like a wastegate/BOV hybrid that helps build boost and combat compressor surge, are you going to run a bypass valve on the cold side?
Old 02-04-2017, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
I don't know if it matters, but the BOV flange is on the cold side with the turbo kit piping and ATI seems to prefer them on the hot side. Because it really isn't a BOV and is more like a wastegate/BOV hybrid that helps build boost and combat compressor surge, are you going to run a bypass valve on the cold side?
there is no hot side on a procharger setup. But yeah ic procharger has the valve pre intercooler , the port on Huron for the bov is post intervooler. Didn't think that would really matter, but I would think closer to the throttle body the better.
Old 02-04-2017, 01:24 PM
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Well yeah, it's the hotter side of the intercooler. Whatever that is called lol.

It probably wouldn't matter. I just didn't know if there were any pros/cons to that as I try to figure out if closer to the compressor would combat surge better. Of if closer to the TB would make it slightly more responsive? I guess the only difference is if you're venting hotter air or cooler air into the atmosphere.
Old 02-04-2017, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
Well yeah, it's the hotter side of the intercooler. Whatever that is called lol.

It probably wouldn't matter. I just didn't know if there were any pros/cons to that as I try to figure out if closer to the compressor would combat surge better. Of if closer to the TB would make it slightly more responsive? I guess the only difference is if you're venting hotter air or cooler air into the atmosphere.
I'll do a little research on that. I may have to weld the red race valve coupler on anyways, not sure if the one on the huron pipe is correct anyways.
Old 02-05-2017, 12:28 PM
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Well attempted to bolt the transmission onto the engine last night but ran into a problem, after filling the converter up with dex III fluid, i went to install it and it seemed pretty tight, after messing with it for a while I finally but a good solid nudge to it and it finally slid the rest of the way on. I didn't feel good about it so I pulled it back off and the o-ring on the input shaft was ripped up, it was obviously catching on this o-ring. Ill get another one monday and try it again, hopefully that o ring was a little oversized, but I'm afraid the converter is a little too snug!

Also noticed on my new BP automotive engine harness their is no a/c compressor connector/wire so I have to figure out what happened tomorrow also, although this won't put me behind ill just pin it in and run it to the compressor. But the problem after problem really gets old after a while!
Old 02-05-2017, 01:15 PM
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I hear you.

I was thinking of getting a new harness from them. Do they offer a complete replacement harness for the F-Body? I know they sell F-Body harnesses to swap into other things, but didn't know if it would work as a replacement for our cars.
Old 02-05-2017, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
I hear you.

I was thinking of getting a new harness from them. Do they offer a complete replacement harness for the F-Body? I know they sell F-Body harnesses to swap into other things, but didn't know if it would work as a replacement for our cars.
yup it's like the only place to get an exact replacement actually ! Super nice harness, even has grommet that goes in the firewall and all
Old 02-05-2017, 01:44 PM
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Old 02-06-2017, 01:21 PM
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Looking good Josh! Bob
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Old 02-06-2017, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by josh4ku
Did you do that yourself? If so, what all did you use to make it?
Old 02-07-2017, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
Did you do that yourself? If so, what all did you use to make it?
Had a guy do it I found. I just shipped it to him. his name is donnie baldwin. He did an awesome job.
Old 02-07-2017, 12:35 PM
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That is nice.
Old 02-10-2017, 12:34 PM
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Well now I am having an issue with the converter to flex plate clearance. I actually have a slight negative clearance, after confirming the flexplate and converter are correct. It looks like I'm going to have to send the converter back to FTI to have them machine off some of the converter mounts to allow for the correct gap between the converter and flexplate. Really discouraged right now, it seems every thing is causing issues!
Old 02-10-2017, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
Well yeah, it's the hotter side of the intercooler. Whatever that is called lol.

It probably wouldn't matter. I just didn't know if there were any pros/cons to that as I try to figure out if closer to the compressor would combat surge better. Of if closer to the TB would make it slightly more responsive? I guess the only difference is if you're venting hotter air or cooler air into the atmosphere.

This is accurate. On a supercharged car you want the BOV to be between the blower and the IC inlet for optimum performance. Reason is that when you shut the throttle all the air in the IC and piping creates a shock wave pushing the air back to the compressor impeller. Putting the BOV by the TB doesnt do alot to help for all that air in the IC and in the piping between the IC and blower. I had my BOV before the TB but was getting impeller surge with it located here on my supercharger due to the amount of air in the FMIC and piping. I now run a 44mm TB between the blower and FMIC and the original 38mm BOV between the FMIC and TB. with both working I get no surge and cover both ends.

Placing the BOV before the IC also vents the hot air before it reaches the IC and heat soaks it. Versus still heating the IC and venting on the TB side.

I also knoticed a drop in IAT temps (from heat soak) with the BOV between the blower and IC vs just after the IC and TB.
Old 02-10-2017, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by josh4ku
Well now I am having an issue with the converter to flex plate clearance. I actually have a slight negative clearance, after confirming the flexplate and converter are correct. It looks like I'm going to have to send the converter back to FTI to have them machine off some of the converter mounts to allow for the correct gap between the converter and flexplate. Really discouraged right now, it seems every thing is causing issues!

Been there and currently still have this with mine. I run a 2004R and had a 10" billet oversized lockup 2400stall converter built and replaced my non billet 10".. literally no other changes and the converter bottomed out in the flexplate before I was able to bolt it down, I basically had NO play. I told the tranny guy and he said the back was built to the original height of the stock 10" style converter I had before. He measures installed height on some tool. This doesnt explain why its happening so I checked the converter and I can only assume the Billet version has a much thicker mounting bolt area. Not the bosses you bolt to but the WHOLE back of the converter was much beefier (hence the extra wide lockup clutch and strength). So i decided to grind down the flexplate pilot adapter I had been using. Sure enough I got the clearance I needed by modifying the adapter.

My theory is that the backs of the HD/billet converters are thicker and that thickness (decreased space) or added material isn't available in that area.

FWIW I only run .090" converter play and haven't had any issues. I was told my billet converter would have been fine with .060" clearance as it wont balloon at all. I am however running a stock flexplate and not a SFI version.
Old 02-10-2017, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by josh4ku
Well now I am having an issue with the converter to flex plate clearance. I actually have a slight negative clearance, after confirming the flexplate and converter are correct. It looks like I'm going to have to send the converter back to FTI to have them machine off some of the converter mounts to allow for the correct gap between the converter and flexplate. Really discouraged right now, it seems every thing is causing issues!
Don't get too discouraged. Last time I pulled my car apart as far as you have yours right it was undriveable for 17 months. When I was all finished it was everything I wanted and then some, Also more reliable than ever with all the after market parts. Take you time and get it right the 1st time and enjoy it later. I just change the oil and drive it now.
Old 02-13-2017, 05:41 PM
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Well figured out the stationary shaft on the transmission was keeping the converter from going in all the way. Had to ship the converter back to FTI to have it looked at & modified to work. YET ANOTHER BIG SET BACK!!!!
Old 02-13-2017, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by conan
Don't get too discouraged. Last time I pulled my car apart as far as you have yours right it was undriveable for 17 months. When I was all finished it was everything I wanted and then some, Also more reliable than ever with all the after market parts. Take you time and get it right the 1st time and enjoy it later. I just change the oil and drive it now.
Your right, it will be awesome when its done if no short cuts are taken. Just sucks when every time I go together with something I find an issue, i guess its better than not finding the issue until its too late!


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