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Been there and currently still have this with mine. I run a 2004R and had a 10" billet oversized lockup 2400stall converter built and replaced my non billet 10".. literally no other changes and the converter bottomed out in the flexplate before I was able to bolt it down, I basically had NO play. I told the tranny guy and he said the back was built to the original height of the stock 10" style converter I had before. He measures installed height on some tool. This doesnt explain why its happening so I checked the converter and I can only assume the Billet version has a much thicker mounting bolt area. Not the bosses you bolt to but the WHOLE back of the converter was much beefier (hence the extra wide lockup clutch and strength). So i decided to grind down the flexplate pilot adapter I had been using. Sure enough I got the clearance I needed by modifying the adapter.
My theory is that the backs of the HD/billet converters are thicker and that thickness (decreased space) or added material isn't available in that area.
FWIW I only run .090" converter play and haven't had any issues. I was told my billet converter would have been fine with .060" clearance as it wont balloon at all. I am however running a stock flexplate and not a SFI version.
That must be. I sent mine back to FTI to have it fixed, really stinks!
I'd like to see how far off the intercooler piping is from the Procharger. Been thinking of going with the Huron kit vs eBay pipes since it's higher quality stuff. May not step up to the Bell 4.5" though... at that point the price is essentially the same as the ATI kit which is really a bolt on upgrade.
Nothing has happened. My FTI converter wouldn't go in far enough, ended up sending it back to have it machined, this took 2 weeks with shipping. I went to try it again and it still wouldn't go on far enough, found out the input shaft of my transmission is .125" longer than stock. So i had to send it back again yesterday for another part to be modified.
Also doesn't help that it seems north texas converter is closed, I couldn't get any help from them.
Looks good! How does the rest of the cold side fit up there? The tubing in the Huron kit is aluminum or SS?
side note, how did u remove the steel coil mounting brackets/coil covers on the 865s? I guess it's just bending those 2 tabs and they slip off? I wanted to paint mine but I didn't want to bend the tabs and screw up the grounding or snap on off.
True, didn't even see the plastic pulley. My dorman plastic pulley shattered getting it off. And I had to press it on farther to line up with my truck accessories. I just swapped out out for the dirty dingo billet pulley and it's worth every penny!
Nice. I think that convinced me to get the Huron Speed kit. What coupler did you end up using to mate up to the Huron Speed piping? Like a 3x6" 45 degree?
Looks good! How does the rest of the cold side fit up there? The tubing in the Huron kit is aluminum or SS?
side note, how did u remove the steel coil mounting brackets/coil covers on the 865s? I guess it's just bending those 2 tabs and they slip off? I wanted to paint mine but I didn't want to bend the tabs and screw up the grounding or snap on off.
havent put the pipes on from throttle body to intercooler yet, but should fit perfect. My last kit did on another car! Yes the Huron kit is stainless steel.
As as far as the coils I didn't remove those pieces, I sent these in to be hydripped, not sure if they removed them or not.
Nice. I think that convinced me to get the Huron Speed kit. What coupler did you end up using to mate up to the Huron Speed piping? Like a 3x6" 45 degree?
yup, that coupler actually came with the kit. Ill just have to get another one because it goes on the other side.
Had to cut this out to make room for the connector, this was fun with the transmission in the way! Did the same on the other side for the rear oil cooler fitting.
Finally got the pulley's lined up, ended up having to space out the crank pulley 1/16.
havent put the pipes on from throttle body to intercooler yet, but should fit perfect. My last kit did on another car! Yes the Huron kit is stainless steel.
As as far as the coils I didn't remove those pieces, I sent these in to be hydripped, not sure if they removed them or not.
Gotcha, hmm stainless is going to retain heat tho! I wonder how much heat it would retain over aluminum but SS is nice bc it doesn't deform and its stronger.
Man.. I really want to paint them but I dont want to disassemble them.
Gotcha, hmm stainless is going to retain heat tho! I wonder how much heat it would retain over aluminum but SS is nice bc it doesn't deform and its stronger.
Man.. I really want to paint them but I dont want to disassemble them.
Well I don't know where to get aluminum piping, unless I make my own. The procharger kit comes with MILD STEEL!!! And it has a lot more rubber couplers.
Well I don't know where to get aluminum piping, unless I make my own. The procharger kit comes with MILD STEEL!!! And it has a lot more rubber couplers.
From what I see your piping is very easy and not complex. 1 180* bend and 2 straight sections will make what you go there. I got a cheap ebay 3" kit that came with 2 180*, 2 straight sections (19" I think length each), two 90*, and perhaps 2 45* but can't remember for sure on the 45*. Came with all the silicone couplers and clamps but I upgraded my clamps for real clampco SS clamps. Just cut the pipe where you need to and you dont really need a bead roll on it unless your pushing 15+psi. BUt you can do quick bead rolls with a terminal crimper for less than $5. Or weld or use the couplers with good clamps and you should be ok. Ive pressure tested mine to 15+psi and never blew a coupler and most of mine dont have beads on the ends. Tubing kits are usually $100 or less.
On my other forums guys have seen inaccurate IAT readings due to SS and mild steel pipe if the sensor is located in the piping. Heat soak becomes an issue when pipes are closer to the radiator heat etc. But I will say that even aluminum pipe gets pretty warm... couldnt imagine SS or mild steel yikes!
Your prob fine but you could have aluminum made using the SS huron as a template and fix the entry out of the supercharger to make a better transition.
02-13-2017, 05:45 PM
