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wow that exhaust is purdy. Who makes it and how much? I'm going to warn you.... thats going to be LOUD! But it will mask the supercharger venting until about 90kpa which gets real old real fast lol.
wow that exhaust is purdy. Who makes it and how much? I'm going to warn you.... thats going to be LOUD! But it will mask the supercharger venting until about 90kpa which gets real old real fast lol.
Lol its the kooks true duals kit. Once we get the magnaflow ovals in there I'm hoping it is a little quieter.
Are you going to fab your own blower hat or did you buy something to fit with all your extra room ?
What are you doing for the air dam to feed the radiator ?
Looking by the way.
I have a 4" aluminum elbow to go onto the procharger. I may end up having it weld it to the procharger inlet, not sure if there will be enough room for a clamp/coupler yet. And as far as the damn it will still be able to bolt onto the bottom support, With the bottom support being moved forward I'm not certain it will still clear everything quite yet. That is something I need to look at closer next!
Nice, looking forward to seeing it all come together and how much room you made.
Did you have to trim out the inside of the bumper to fit around the cooler core ? I had to cut a little out of my bumper to fit but the Camaro bumper is different than the TA version.
Finally found a loop that clears. The BMR hits the true duals really hard. Obviously the UMI doesn't work at all. This Midwest chasis clears and runs inside the tunnel. Very happy with it!
here is a short little clip. Red race valve sounds really good. The kooks true duals are too loud combined with the race valve for sure. Finally got the flex fuel sensor working properly, and the edge cts2 as you can see in the video! I'll get more videos loaded soon. It's not really tuned yet
So little update. I've been working with Patrick G to tune this thing back forth via email so it is takin a little while. It's still very rich at WOT. But pulls like crazy already.
One thing im by sure of is why I am only seeing about 7-8psi of boost. I've double checked all my clamps. There is some black specks around the belt area like maybe it's slipping? I have the 7.65 crank and 4.00 pulley.
The other thing is I started having problems shifting. Noticed the shift rod has a lot of play in it. Pulled the pan lastnight and the nut on the inside has come loose. But was disturbed by the amount of black debree in the bottom of the pan. Anyway slapped t back together and going to do more tuning this week.
How much boost should you be making? When I got belt slip you could sometimes hear it. I doubt u could with the exhaust tho. If your getting slip then in the logs you would see the boost just flatline as Rpms increase. That's the easiest way for me to tell when running a supercharger as boost is directly related to rpm.
Another thing to consider is the FMIC. I ran 2 FMIC and after switching to a W2A I picked up about 2-3psi of boost.
If the tranny is fresh then some break in will happen as everything Seats itself and wears in. That does seem excessive. Are you keeping an eye on tranny temps? I think yours is an electronic one but with the older non electric we put a pressure gauge and very tranny pressure at idle, part throttle and WOT. If you got low pressure then you will smoke the clutches really quickly, too much and you get excessively hard shifts and alittle harder on the internals. But u look like u got a lot of clutch dust in that pan if it was clean and rebuilt.
Edit: also forgot to ask if you verified belt alignment with a straight edge? If your off alittle u can create belt slip and premature belt failure. also verify if it's a spring tensioner that you have enough tension.
How much boost should you be making? When I got belt slip you could sometimes hear it. I doubt u could with the exhaust tho. If your getting slip then in the logs you would see the boost just flatline as Rpms increase. That's the easiest way for me to tell when running a supercharger as boost is directly related to rpm.
Another thing to consider is the FMIC. I ran 2 FMIC and after switching to a W2A I picked up about 2-3psi of boost.
If the tranny is fresh then some break in will happen as everything Seats itself and wears in. That does seem excessive. Are you keeping an eye on tranny temps? I think yours is an electronic one but with the older non electric we put a pressure gauge and very tranny pressure at idle, part throttle and WOT. If you got low pressure then you will smoke the clutches really quickly, too much and you get excessively hard shifts and alittle harder on the internals. But u look like u got a lot of clutch dust in that pan if it was clean and rebuilt.
Edit: also forgot to ask if you verified belt alignment with a straight edge? If your off alittle u can create belt slip and premature belt failure. also verify if it's a spring tensioner that you have enough tension.
Well I know the Alchemist has the same pulley combo on his 416 and he is at i think 16 psi or so with an F1A Mine is only a 376 with bigger procharger. I would think it would be atlas 16 psi. Ill have to look over the last log tomorrow, but I didn't build into boost until fairly high rpm I remember right.
The tranny temps seem to stay pretty cool. 140-180 degrees. I
As far as alignment I believe they are aligned but I didn't have problems getting to that point, I am running the belt that brute speed sells. I have ready everywhere that the Dayco green stripe is the belt to be running. I may grab one of those and try it.
Yeah, I have a 7.65/4.00 pulley combo with my F1A, on my 416, and made ~16psi, but it tapered off up top due to some belt slip that I had, plus trying to suck through a clogged air filter.
I don't see why you're not in the mid to upper teens for boost.
I hate to say this, but make sure that the blower rotation is correct. It wouldn't be the first time that it was a standard rotation blower when it needed to be a reverse rotation.
04-17-2017, 12:00 AM
