Before anyone gives me grief, the cars been running just fine for the past 6 years with the rear mount set up. A few initial hiccups in the beginning but that was to be expected from a custom build. Learned some stuff and had fun. Now i wanna try out a front mout and start planning the for larger builds now that ive grown as a builder and mechanic. The rear mount worked well, but i know its limitations. It was a good starter build. Now im ready for a little more seriousness now. And a lot less rear mount head aches lol lets face it, rear mounts take just a little more work and precations then front mounts do to funtion properly and reliably and somethings always wiggling loose lol but it was fun.

Here goes... im not posting the original build because that would be way to time consuming and i still have school work to do this year LOL buuuuut you can find it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ng-anyway.html

Alright so heres the plan,
Remove all the long *** charge pipes, rear mounted turbo and waste gate, and the scavenger pump, and old inter cooler.

GT45 Turbo
New 50mm wastegate
New bov (auto so we will see)
New CX Racing hotside including manifolds
Make the adjustable fpr funtional and true return.
Dual fuel 340 Walbro racetronic kit
60lbs injectors are ok for now (80lbs later)
Alternator relocation bracket and possibly new alternator (Truck ALT works)
Borla mouth catback on stand by....
Getting rid of a/c.... has to be done.
Have a UMI RR K memeber in there already and not switching that bastard out for another one for a couple of inches
New CXracing intercooler kit cause the old ones been acting like an oil filter.... you know why and if you dont youll learn! Lol
Debating keeping stock heads on or swapping to 317 with ls9 gasket and pac 1218 springs. Head studs if i go this route, will be installing a Summit stage 2 turbo cam with this route.

get the tune cleaned up
Wrap all the new hot pipes
Turbo blanet

Relocate the map sensor off of the manifold later (dont like it hiding back there and i think its a source of boost leak too

Trans is already been built recently with all the internal goodies and has a 3800 stall with it.
Gonna have to play roulette a little longer with the stock rear still but its the 2.73.

Gonna stick to the power level im at at about 550-600 for now. Plenty for street driving..... for now 😉 tires never stick anyway lol

If anyone has any other mentionables that i forgot let me know. Before it was easy because i didnt have anythign lol now most of its already on the car.

Gonna have some fun with this ls1 before i decide to build my first engine that will have everything it i want in it. I have some 317s laying around but if im gonna pull the heads, i might as well do a cam, and if i do a cam, i might as well get an entire block. For now, a nice safe reliable tune and some fun before i go all out.

 

Heres what angry has been up to

 

Why must your a.c. be deleted? I see you already have a good k member.

 

From my understanding with exhaust manifolds facing down and forward i have to lose the a/c compressor and move the alternator up where the egr use to be.

 

That's not true. I still have a.c. and I have forward facing manifolds. C6 Bette manifold, and a truck one. I didn't do the bends on them as they were already on the car.....but it can be done.

 

Ive seen it, but from my understanding i need a turbo firendly k memeber, like the bmr turbo kmemebr, dont i? The umi rr kmemeber doesnt curve down and around, but goes staight down from the motor and doesnt provide as much room for the piping to go forward and provide a down pipe to the rear.

 

1st pic is the passenger side manifold.....second is the driver side downpipe.

 

To answer your question, yes you need a turbo friendly k member.

 

Why can't you just use the Holley A/C relocation mount with their Sanden compressor? It's like $400 total. You just have to run custom lines to the condenser. But then it's up and away from the manifolds. And you'd have to find a place to mount your catch can, but I think that's easier than the A/C.

 

man! Not much room to change out that alternator is there? Lol
And i dont think my k member is gonna allow for the passenger side to sneak around like that. So no A/c which is fine cause i havnt had a/c running in years anyway lol

 

Jesus! I already had a posting on this 2 years ago lol alots happened since then. Moved to virgina and took a new job. Im just now getting parts together to move this along. Waiting on cold side, new header bolts, alt relocation bracket, and small bits and pieces. Dbating if i want to take off heads or just bolt on the new turbo setup and have fun. Gonna also get the new Hptuner MPV2 setup. Im outside of richmond, so if anything i can send it to Frost for a proper tune if I get hung up lol

 

I kept AC. rear exiting stock Pass manifold and a flipped truck manifold. The crossover can stack around the AC compressor or just run around the trans. I also did it all on a stock K member...so you shouldnt have an issue.

2" hotside is plenty for your power goals.

 

nice!! I'm kinda ditching it cause I need a new pump and with that a filter/dryer and a service, and dont feel like getting all that and try and fight the turbo exhaust fitment.

 

well today Mark's the actual year down. taking covers off and getting it off the ground. took cold piping off of front and took some interesting pictures lol.

it has begun!!

old piping coming off


gonna have some turbo piping available soon

looks like i ingested some road debree. not sure how that happened but glad the intercooler acted like a filter.

Cxracing hot side in waiting

pitfalls of rear mount.. oil at the throttlebody

checking out my next course of action... what to do with the radiator and condensor?

not much room for a turbo. gonna have to fix that

Oh boys! looky what i got here!

im wondering if i ruprured my intercooler?

strange oiling marks on intercooler

over driver tire cold pipe. best thing i ever did to gain ground clearance. more to follow in that.

Oil change please

some preliminary pictures

emusa held in there for some time

where the intake pipe comes from... a must for ground clearance

 

cx racing intercooler kit came in. holy crap is that new intercooler heavy. they didnt skimp on aluminum.

So unfortunately i think the turbo is shot. oil coming out nearly every hole available. id like to see if its recoverable still. i think on3 has replacement cartriages

here we see some extra meat that can be cut iut of the bottom radiator support without cutting it out completely.

again, bottin radiator support that could be trimmed to make room for

The stock fan and radiator shroud is pretty thick. explai s why room is so presious in the nose.

glorious room made after fan removal

another angle of that pesky ac compressor

some measurements i took for a stock radiator dimensions if cut here

overall length needed to cut up top if standing a stock rad is decided

reference markings for possible cutting

So out of all the radiator removal and stand up crap ive read... ive never seen mention of these stupid air duct shrouds that are interwoven in the front bumper. JESUS! gotta be 20lbs of pladtic lol

whats next to come. header removal

radiator and condensor all exposed

317 heads, studs, springs, valve covers, and new brakets waiting to go

turbo blankey and alternator bracket

before the fans came out. thinking of getting an after market coolant resivoir but holding off.

turbo haning on for dear life

so this is what a UMI Road race k memeber looks like. beefy and not ac and turbo exhuast routing friendly

As you can see, there are some extra bracing that makes it hard to stick 3\"exhaust out of

that bar there is the real problem. that main one off the kmemeber

leaking mess... seals are shot id imagine

 

Gt45 came in today. holy crap thats a serious size difference. i have a 3.5 to 3 transition for the turbo and down pipe. i need to see if i have the right size coupler for the intercooler pipe to turbo though.

a side by side comparison. gonna have a lot more flow than the t76

gonna try and reuse these. just changed them out a few months back. some thermal sleeves and wrapping the primaries should help.

 

well today was productive. I got the ac system out and one of the headers out. think I found my boost leaks. looks like I may have used the OBX header gaskets instead of the stock. I didnt think I did when I installed the headers.

so i see alot of carbon blowout. i think this was yhe source of all my headaches with boost

lots of room now lol

bye bye ac. dont worry. it was completely dry. it didnt even have fluid in it. compressor was shot and leaking a long time ago. condensor was pretty easy to take out.

lots more room now

dryers gone.

dropping the header

seeing what i can do without cutting

well theres one. one more to go. headers are still in good shape.

whats under wrapped pipes.

perfectly good condensor

lost some weight today

 

Ordered some new ac delco exhaust gaskets. not sure of I threw my originals away or stashed them some where. that was over 10 years ago.

 

alternator removed from stock location

alternator and stock bracket on the ground. waiting to relocate

in the process of dropping the driver side header

got a new set of ls1 exhaust gaskets now

 

Drivers side header finally out. had to take the steering shaft off to slide it out.

moving wires around. still trying to figure out whete to put stuff

power wires moved out from in front of the engine.

Passenger side turbo manifold installed. not too bad and the 30mm header bolts were alot better than stock, shorter and larger hex head.

all cleaned up. still have to get fans in there but much better

some mock up before they dissapear into the engine comparment.

Alternator is relocated. the brakcets fit up nice and easy. the bely supplied though was too short. im suspecting the belt was for a stock ls1 alt, not a truck alt. gonna have to get a belt that id about 2 9nches longer.

looks goos there. wish i could have kept my ac condensor, but .... race car lol

old longtube headers completely out. Probably looking for a new home soon

pulled the scavenger wireing harness, feed line, drain line, and vacuum/boost lines out. cant say i wont have plenty to use for other projects lol i think i see why the pump went out. the harness melted to the top of the header. finally shorted the thing out i bet. even with the header wrapped. gonna have to take more car of wires this time around.