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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 04:56 PM
  #21  
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Wow u ran Dennis out of his own thread
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 05:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
I don't think he has any idea what 1000whp feels like or has a chassis that can handle it.
do you ? 👍🏼 My car is tuned at 13 psi making 609 at the tires , and I've had it at 17 psi with race gas on several occasions . 250 more isn't That big of a deal . And I most certainly have everything I need to handle the power minus a built m6 , I'd like to be around 1000 and all out kill on high test and water meth 1200 "1500 and I'm asking for problems with the stock crank and block I do believe". I spent a half hour on the phone with tsp and I'm running a 6.0 , 370, gm crank , tsp rods and -11 cc pistons. Custom turbo grind , arp studs, ls9 gaskets and call it a day. I spoke with Jose and there isn't a turbo that will bolt to my kit that will do what I want. Gonna order a v3 twin setup as soon as Jon gets back too me . Pt67 billets should do the trick , although I've read they don't come on till 3500 or so and that's a little lazier than I wanted . May got with something a little smaller. Basically waiting too see what he would recommend for my goals
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 05:25 PM
  #23  
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On a side note I did pick up a nice mig today with the suitcase, spool gun , so muscle mig and their new plasma cutter for a pretty good price. Hopefully can get my hands on a Huth bender in the near future and make my own piping .
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 06:09 PM
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When will you ever be below 3500rpm. Why do you want them to spool so low? Doesn't make much since. Not to sound like a dick but you seem like one of those people that come on here and want 1500hp on a stock block that spools at idle, lasts for infinite miles and gets gets 30mpg
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 06:51 PM
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My current setup makes full boost by 2700, it's a street car, why wouldn't I want it too spool as low as possible? Isn't that the point of twins over a big single anyways ? Make same power less lag? I'm pretty green obviously when it comes to turbo cars. Im looking for a car capable of making 1200 at the tires . I've got one that can make 750 right now on high boost and it's never doggy and always pulling . I see no reason why you couldn't have something spool like a light switch and still make huge power . No it's not a sbe going in the car, stock lq4 block , gm crank, blocks will get cleaned up, tsp h beams and wiseco -11 cc dish pistons. Should net 9 to 1 with lq4 heads, my valve train from the ls1 will go into the lq4 , minus the cam as I plan on getting a custom ground turbo cam. I already have a fab 9, twin 340lph pumps , racetronix fuel system with boost referenced regulator , rails, and lines . Car has full chromoly suspension, only thing not done yet is a cage and frankly I don't want one . Basically I'm looking for a little more power than I make now on high boost and a lot more power on kill. Does that seem legit enough? Car has Holley hp efi,
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:42 PM
  #26  
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I don't under stand why people buy those bull **** v3 twin turbo kits , when u can have a bad *** big boy real deal holy field , thing of beauty like so
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis5374
do you ? 👍🏼 My car is tuned at 13 psi making 609 at the tires , and I've had it at 17 psi with race gas on several occasions . 250 more isn't That big of a deal . And I most certainly have everything I need to handle the power minus a built m6 , I'd like to be around 1000 and all out kill on high test and water meth 1200 "1500 and I'm asking for problems with the stock crank and block I do believe". I spent a half hour on the phone with tsp and I'm running a 6.0 , 370, gm crank , tsp rods and -11 cc pistons. Custom turbo grind , arp studs, ls9 gaskets and call it a day. I spoke with Jose and there isn't a turbo that will bolt to my kit that will do what I want. Gonna order a v3 twin setup as soon as Jon gets back too me . Pt67 billets should do the trick , although I've read they don't come on till 3500 or so and that's a little lazier than I wanted . May got with something a little smaller. Basically waiting too see what he would recommend for my goals
Oh wow 13 psi... that's pretty neat! 17 psi WOW!!

So what clutch are you using for this beast? What are your ET/MPH goals?
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 1500HP
I don't under stand why people buy those bull **** v3 twin turbo kits , when u can have a bad *** big boy real deal holy field , thing of beauty like so
lol, price and fitment come to mind.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 10:18 PM
  #29  
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Please tell me this will be a dyno queen and not something you'll have on the road or track. You're gonna kill somebody or yourself. Your comment that you make 609 horsepower and another 250 is no big deal shows your ignorance. The other statement that you want to be at 1200 on kill is absurd. Not that it cant do it, but if your asking for advice on how to do it, it could make one wonder what the rest of the car consists of. Those are big numbers friend and you need a hell of a car to handle that kind of power. Good luck to ya!

Last edited by 3 window; Mar 2, 2017 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 01:12 AM
  #30  
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I think what Dennis has not yet experienced is how much incremental horsepower costs. It's not like going from 800 to 1000 costs a little more, it costs a lot more. And going from 1000 to 1200 costs way more than the jump from 800 to 1000. I don't think he realizes that people with 1500rwhp have a lot of engineering in their cars, it's not just a list of parts that are capable of making that much power. Keeping with the M6 on the street, there is no difference between 1000 and 1500 hp, they both just spin, same result. He doesn't realize a 500rwhp car with a well stalled auto and the suspension set up correctly can and probably will embarrass him in a street race. As they say "Spinnin' ain't Winnin'". Well in anything other than a roll taken to crazy speeds. And anything at those power levels, without a roll cage and other proper safety gear is just insane.

Dennis I'm not telling you what to do, it's your car, but here is what I would do. I'd spend the summer enjoying your car as it is, fine tune it to make it work the best you can make it run. This will give you a baseline where you are at. After you run the car for a while you will understand what it needs to do, to satisfy you. You may realize the 700 or so rwhp you can get out of it is enough until you get your suspension working well with that much power. You will need some adjustable shocks and need to get the car to launch correctly. You will need some wheels and tires too. I'd recommend going right to beadlock type wheels considering your goals. You will also probably want a bias ply type slick or cheater slick with an M6. I'm not an expert here but have heard drag radials are hard to hook with a stick. You will also get asked to leave most race tracks if you run that car to its full potential because it lacks the safety equipment required for the trap speed it is capable of. You may need to run 1/8ths then coast the big end not to get kicked off.
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 04:57 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 1500HP
I don't under stand why people buy those bull **** v3 twin turbo kits , when u can have a bad *** big boy real deal holy field , thing of beauty like so
And how much is that, and how many minutes does it take to change plugs ? lol
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 06:47 AM
  #32  
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I do realize how how hard it is to Hook up with a m6 ,and yes without a cage it will get carded. I have a set of strange double adjustable shocks that I can put in the car if need be , but being 99% street right now , the car is built to handle and be a very quick street car. Right now I run toyo proxes tq drag radials, which for me have been the best all around street tire I've ever used in all phases of weather. I drove my car over 300 miles round trip in the pouring rain , and ynever once did it get hairy or out of control. I've honestly never seen another tire hook on wet roads like these. As for safety equipment I'm assuming you're referring a driveshaft loop and a cage? The closest track too me is 3 hours away so I don't intend on being there very often . Aside from running strange/afco/Viking coilovers, and an actual roll bar/cage to stiffen the chassis , their really isn't much more I can do too setup the suspension. I think In all honesty I'll ditch the eboost street and set my boost controller up through the Holley efi. I'm pretty sure you can do boost by gear" which would definitely help to hook the car up from a dig . I really don't get what this other guys deal is , claiming that I'm irresponsible , for wanting a high horsepower street car. I believe the reason we have electronic boost controllers is too control that power but I could be wrong again. As far as the cage goes, I just tend to dislike how loose they look, and if I could get one that was extremely tight too the chassis with swinging doors I'd have no problem running it . The car will need a mini tub, at least and I've had very good luck with mt wr streets both on and off the track . For my nitrous setup and current turbo setup, my ls7 clutch and flywheel haven't skipped a beat but when it does, I'll go with a rxt twin disc setup. I do agree on the beadlocks 100%

Originally Posted by ScottyBG
I think what Dennis has not yet experienced is how much incremental horsepower costs. It's not like going from 800 to 1000 costs a little more, it costs a lot more. And going from 1000 to 1200 costs way more than the jump from 800 to 1000. I don't think he realizes that people with 1500rwhp have a lot of engineering in their cars, it's not just a list of parts that are capable of making that much power. Keeping with the M6 on the street, there is no difference between 1000 and 1500 hp, they both just spin, same result. He doesn't realize a 500rwhp car with a well stalled auto and the suspension set up correctly can and probably will embarrass him in a street race. As they say "Spinnin' ain't Winnin'". Well in anything other than a roll taken to crazy speeds. And anything at those power levels, without a roll cage and other proper safety gear is just insane.

Dennis I'm not telling you what to do, it's your car, but here is what I would do. I'd spend the summer enjoying your car as it is, fine tune it to make it work the best you can make it run. This will give you a baseline where you are at. After you run the car for a while you will understand what it needs to do, to satisfy you. You may realize the 700 or so rwhp you can get out of it is enough until you get your suspension working well with that much power. You will need some adjustable shocks and need to get the car to launch correctly. You will need some wheels and tires too. I'd recommend going right to beadlock type wheels considering your goals. You will also probably want a bias ply type slick or cheater slick with an M6. I'm not an expert here but have heard drag radials are hard to hook with a stick. You will also get asked to leave most race tracks if you run that car to its full potential because it lacks the safety equipment required for the trap speed it is capable of. You may need to run 1/8ths then coast the big end not to get kicked off.
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 08:26 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
And how much is that, and how many minutes does it take to change plugs ? lol
Same answer to both....a lot!
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 11:36 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Dennis5374
I do realize how how hard it is to Hook up with a m6 ,and yes without a cage it will get carded. I have a set of strange double adjustable shocks that I can put in the car if need be , but being 99% street right now , the car is built to handle and be a very quick street car. Right now I run toyo proxes tq drag radials, which for me have been the best all around street tire I've ever used in all phases of weather. I drove my car over 300 miles round trip in the pouring rain , and ynever once did it get hairy or out of control. I've honestly never seen another tire hook on wet roads like these. As for safety equipment I'm assuming you're referring a driveshaft loop and a cage? The closest track too me is 3 hours away so I don't intend on being there very often . Aside from running strange/afco/Viking coilovers, and an actual roll bar/cage to stiffen the chassis , their really isn't much more I can do too setup the suspension. I think In all honesty I'll ditch the eboost street and set my boost controller up through the Holley efi. I'm pretty sure you can do boost by gear" which would definitely help to hook the car up from a dig . I really don't get what this other guys deal is , claiming that I'm irresponsible , for wanting a high horsepower street car. I believe the reason we have electronic boost controllers is too control that power but I could be wrong again. As far as the cage goes, I just tend to dislike how loose they look, and if I could get one that was extremely tight too the chassis with swinging doors I'd have no problem running it . The car will need a mini tub, at least and I've had very good luck with mt wr streets both on and off the track . For my nitrous setup and current turbo setup, my ls7 clutch and flywheel haven't skipped a beat but when it does, I'll go with a rxt twin disc setup. I do agree on the beadlocks 100%
So your stock LS7 clutch is holding 600whp and you expect an RXT to hold 1500... grand plans sir, grand plans!
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 11:46 AM
  #35  
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Land of confusion...
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 01:51 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 1500HP
I don't under stand why people buy those bull **** v3 twin turbo kits , when u can have a bad *** big boy real deal holy field , thing of beauty like so
nice photo chop. check out those wastegates!
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by merim123
nice photo chop. check out those wastegates!
LOL! Get you one!!! Screw that other brand!
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 04:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by merim123
nice photo chop. check out those wastegates!
Well u can't afford one but it's not photo chop
And it's not that bad to change plugs but yes the cost would definitely make u by brand X also those turbo were just for a laugh the actual units are from Reed at works turbo and are SXE 369 with reeds new bigger wheels





Last edited by 1500HP; Mar 3, 2017 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 04:48 PM
  #39  
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I'm just not a run of the mill same stuff everyOne else has ,I like my stuff to work and look good doing it
I was Going with a single this is my other kit here
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 05:03 PM
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What makes that list so special. Looks pretty basic to me.
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