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You're right gametech.I need to try to fig out one thing at a time. It's been 3 or 4 years since I have drove the car, and I'm getting closer.This is my first turbo efi build it's definitely a learning experience.
I finally got most my holley system in but have a question about the dome sensor.Can I tap into one of my other sensors like fuel or temp for the 5v and ground instead of going back to the ecu with them.And any suggestions on a good laptop for tunning with
Well I thought I was fixing to get to fire this thing up finally.I primed oil psi and turned engine over some to find a crack in the trans.So I took it out got it fixed and last night put it back in.So I filled radiator with water and was going to try to crank it today.I got to the garage this morning and noticed water dripping out of the wastegate on driver side.Took it off and quite a bit of water came out.So I'm guessing my head is cracked.I haven't even turned it over since I filled radiator.Im guessing I'll be looking for a set of heads now .
I ported the heads.I honestly didn't think about that.I could have got in a water jacket.I didn't do much to them but it was on the exhaust side.I guess I need to pull both heads and see.I guess I'll be looking for a set of heads or take these to get fixed.Even though the passenger side isn't leaking probably should pull it to.This is the driver side and as soon as I fill the radiator it will start coming out from there
There is a pin whole in the tip of number 5 exhaust. I must have got carried away with porting.Whats your best suggestion of fixing?I'm going to put a pressure test on it in the next day or so.
Last edited by boostedstang; May 18, 2018 at 09:10 PM.
Reason: Spell wrong
You really have to be careful around that little bump in the exhaust port if you take the bump out you will end up in the coolant jacket or a very thin spot in the casting at best. As far as options it probably would be easiest to get a set of heads and bolt them on. I would be concerned that this isn't the only port that is going to leak. It probably wont take much to crack that area in other ports when you get the exhaust ports hot under boost. If it was a $5000 set of heads u might look into trying to have it welded up but it's probably not worth the money on a set of 317s.
So my best fix would be to buy a set of 317 heads I guess.Or is there some cheap aftermarket cathedral port heads that would be good?Also what would a good set of 317s be worth?
Any aluminum welder could easily just weld that tiny hole right up. It's no big deal at all. Circle it with a sharpie and take it to a machine shop and I would bet less than 50 bucks and you are golden.
Other than cleaning up the casting, shaving down the guides and cleaning up the bowls... (possibly decent valve job) Don’t bother with additional porting IMO. The time and effort VS the risk of over porting and trashing the port design isn’t worth it. Plus you can make plenty of power with an unported head.... any of them. As mentioned most do more harm than good hogging out the ports anyway.
Paid $120 for my last set of 317's... any of the heads will work fine. Even the smaller valve/chamber truck heads no one wants. 852/706 etc... .
Last edited by Forcefed86; May 21, 2018 at 08:52 AM.
Like I said earlier I wouldn't trust the remaining ports thickness and those heads are cheap to get so imo it's not even worth trying to save them. Your power goal is easily reachable with an untouched set of 317s.
Yeah I wish I had left them alone now but can't change what I've done messed up.I'll just have to get another set of heads and learn from my mistakes and not port the next ones for my power goals.
Yeah I wish I had left them alone now but can't change what I've done messed up.I'll just have to get another set of heads and learn from my mistakes and not port the next ones for my power goals.
No need to beat yourself up over it. It's done. Aside from your time it wasn't a real expensive mistake.
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