Main and rod bearings?
Main and rod bearings? I am going to be swapping over a 24x reluctor crank into a gen iv block that had a 58x reluctor crank.
Should I even risk reusing the old bearings from the gen iv block with the new 24x reluctor crank?
If it was recommended that I get new bearings (I would most likely go with Clevite P bearings), should I measure the crank first and try to see if I need oversized ones or do the cranks typically hold their standard sizes very well if they've never had any work done on them?
Should I even risk reusing the old bearings from the gen iv block with the new 24x reluctor crank?
If it was recommended that I get new bearings (I would most likely go with Clevite P bearings), should I measure the crank first and try to see if I need oversized ones or do the cranks typically hold their standard sizes very well if they've never had any work done on them?
Just swapping a wheel doesnt require rebalancing but using a different piston/rod combo will. a 4.065 ls3 piston would weight diff from an ls1 piston etc.
I would have the crank polished and checked then put P bearings in for good insurance. They are like $120 for the set from us in stock size, 1 over, 1 under, 10 over.
I would have the crank polished and checked then put P bearings in for good insurance. They are like $120 for the set from us in stock size, 1 over, 1 under, 10 over.
Gen III cranks and Gen IV cranks probably won't be balanced to the same bobweight, like WS6store said, so you may still have to pay for machine work.
Ive seen swaps like that before. Personally. They will have issues. The higher the rpm the more issues. If they are "close" you cannot tell, but honestly its better to be safe than sorry imo.
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I forgot to mention that my gen iii block was an l33 that had the gen iv style rods from the factory already, so technically the only difference is really the reluctor wheel itself. Since that is the case, it should in theory be all the same right?
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just swap the reluctors. it's easy. there's a guy on here that'll rent you the tool. you'll need a mapp torch at the minimum.
and dont just throw bearings in without having someone who knows what they're doing (not saying you arent capable) check clearances.
if the oil pressure was good, and the bearings & journals look ok then just swap trigger wheels and move on.
and dont just throw bearings in without having someone who knows what they're doing (not saying you arent capable) check clearances.
if the oil pressure was good, and the bearings & journals look ok then just swap trigger wheels and move on.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jul 2015
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just swap the reluctors. it's easy. there's a guy on here that'll rent you the tool. you'll need a mapp torch at the minimum.
and dont just throw bearings in without having someone who knows what they're doing (not saying you arent capable) check clearances.
if the oil pressure was good, and the bearings & journals look ok then just swap trigger wheels and move on.
and dont just throw bearings in without having someone who knows what they're doing (not saying you arent capable) check clearances.
if the oil pressure was good, and the bearings & journals look ok then just swap trigger wheels and move on.
I am going to measure my bearings and double check them before buttoning up everything together.
Anyone know what the rod/main bearing clearances should be? From what I have found, the connecting rod bearing clearance should be 0.015-0.076mm and the mains if geater than 0.00212" would need to be undersized.
Anyone know what the rod/main bearing clearances should be? From what I have found, the connecting rod bearing clearance should be 0.015-0.076mm and the mains if geater than 0.00212" would need to be undersized.
Would you anticipate a balance issue going from a factory dished piston to a factory flat top?
I've got an LM7 I'm putting 4.8L flat tops in and am trying to decide whether to balance the assembly or not.
Cheers!
I've got an LM7 I'm putting 4.8L flat tops in and am trying to decide whether to balance the assembly or not.
Cheers!
Any other opinions on clearances for bearings in a turbo engine?
That depends on the difference in weight. Quite a few machine shops dont balance going to a .030 bore setup. I am not qualified to answer that question as a true machine shop could. If the weight difference is negligible then it would prob be ok to run it. But i cannot tell you exactly where to draw the line.