DJ3100

My buddy and I bought 70050 for our 5.3 swaps. Mine never fired #3 coil. After driving it for 30 minutes we realized 7 SS header tubes were straw colored; one was still shiny. Tech was helpful and we eliminated everything back to the ECU.
The one my friend got was throwing a code for #2 injector. We put a test light on each injector and found #8 was not firing.
Both units are in RMA. Mine has been there for 2 weeks without word on when I'll get it back.
Maybe we got the only bad ones, but I was told there were several units ahead of mine for warranty testing. My feeling is that Fitech is not testing their product after it is built; before it's shipped.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

So I think I might have found my issues.

I haven't had much time to mess with it but I decided to do a full base tune upload. BAsically reprogram the ECU like a full rewrite. I did and used the 24x 39lb 4l60 base in the handheld. After writing was complete it wouldnt connect to the ECU via the handheld. I freaked out and turned the key off after going to dashboard waiting for the values to dissapear. Waited 30s and turned the key back on and was able to connect to the ECU again... phew.

I went through the tune again one by one setting all my values and went in and clarified the transmisson settings via the instructions (if you can call it that). I was confused originally as i thought it said to set transmission to 4l6xo if you were running a non electronic automatic trans... but after reading the instructions multiple times I think they want to you set to "other" if you not running a 4l60/4l80 like a 700r4/2004r/350 etc. So thats what I did, I also did not hook up the laptop so its using the small timing tables I believe and started her up. She sounded much better and timing was up where it should be! It fluctuates of course but now i'm seeing 13+* at idle vs the 0-6* I was seeing. I had to redo my IAC counts to 10 or less so but shes running better and all seems well.

I want to hook up the laptop and set timing to the "big table" and make sure it still idles correct with the higher timing as the small table is NOT boost friendly. Hopefully the laptop doesnt screw anything up.

So it sounds like my issue was that the ECU was looking for the transmission info/input and was taking timing out etc. Or it could have been that the original tune on the ECU wasn't kosher as Ive read some peoples ECUs never came with a base tune and they had to do a full write like I did. Mine must have been the tranny for sure as mine ran, others they wouldnt even crank over.

Mungface78

Your getting this system nailed down! Thanks for sharing your experience with this FITECH stuff.

guychevelle

I'm having a problem with mine never learning. It gets to about 22% learned and go's back down. The car runs great and shifts great it's in my 72 chevelle 5.3 218/218 .550 .550 112 cam. Edelbrock intake/ 4L65e. Anyone else having this issue?

dmracing

iTrader: (80)

I’m taking it that it’s a throttle body unit. There different

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

No, guychevelle's is an LS engine with the FiTech LS setup.

DJ3100

Tech says you have to drive it for 2 hours to get it educated. As I understand it the 2 hours should include all kinds of driving to fill the deviation tables. Don't know how long you have driven yours, but I'm finding it hard to get that much time in because it stalls at random. It has gotten better about not stalling, but I'm still trying to stay in the neighborhood. I think they may be slow learners.

FYI: Fitech replaced my ECU and handheld. We used a NOID and a spark tester to make sure every cylinder was firing. My electronic speedometer is not seeing any signal, but other than that I think it is on its way to being a good set-up.

onebadbowtie86

iTrader: (13)

looking at ordering the 70051 with trans control. What kind of adjusting do they offer for the transmission? can you specify shift points and firmness?

Mungface78

I believe you can from what I've read on their website reading through their frequently asked questions.

guychevelle

Correct and I have driven it about 10 hours.. obviously not at once but for a total of. And yeah you can adjust the shift points exc. it runs good now I can’t imagine how good it would run if it would actually finish tuning.

guychevelle

Stopped by Fitech yesterday in my chevelle. Turns out Learn never go's to 100%. Put about 150 miles on it yesterday alone. Runs great fans come on when they are supposed to. Transmission shifts spot on. When your on it shifts firm when your in stop and go traffic it shifts smooth. I have a transgo shift kit in my 4L65e other than that it's stock. FTI 2800 converter. I love the setup and bought another one for my 71 Nova.

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

hey I received my kit, dropped shipped from Fitech and as reading about the map sensors on how some had issues with them. Mine is a Bosch 170417 0139332 can't find it anywhere when I google it. So I'm hoping it works lol. Yes came from them.

Mungface78

Are you going turbo or sticking with nitrous?

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

I'll be going nitrous, with maybe using a supercharger later.

DJ3100

Fitech replaced my ECU and Hand held and did a reprogram on my friend's unit.
Both are working well after a few tech calls.

Mine would stall at idle. It would stall at nearly every intersection and as it turns out it cannot learn to idle unless the IAC steps are in range.

You have to adjust the stop on the throttle body blade to get the IAC steps between 3 and 10. My GM factory throttle body was causing 115 - 138 IAC steps. In order to get the steps down to 3, I had to get a longer set screw to hold the blade open far enough.

Hellsx

Guys,

Id have a general question for all of you that have one of these. Im leaning towards the Holley HP for what i need to do but my financial leftovers say Fitech.... i still have a lot to buy and do for the build of the whole car and if i want to get the car out this summer i might even have to leave the turbo on the shelf and just get the car N/A so,(b/o, wastegates, big fuel system and the likes are blowing out my budget for the year, i already spent over 17 this year on the whole build so im already way maxed out...) so im back to looking at the Fitech ultimate LS. I mean, it was my first idea and i still consider it often, im just wanting to get the HP for the added flexibility and known factor, especially with my limited knowledge of turbo cars, i feel id be better off having a tool i can at least get help easier from the company and tuners around.... but since were getting the hang of it slowly and its starting to prove its worth, AND that my budget says its a lot more appealing.... well,

Id like to know;

If i have a stock but cammed (jegs grind for an example for the season) 2013 5.3. With my Holley Hi Ram.(i could run the stock truck intake....) What all can i use off the stock engine and what will i need to change for the Fitech to FULLY install and be up and running? What will need changes and which have extensions if not the right connectors?? (Injectors (connectors?), throttle body?(connections) like, if i was to get my Holley TB will it connect right up? Does it need an extension of some sort? How about sensors? Etc.

Im just wanting to know what will break my head or need attention from getting out of the box to plugging in to start the car? All that in order to see what expenses i should expect if i need to change stuff. At this point all adds up and i really need to have a plan of action if i want to race this summer.

Any help would be really appreciated,

Thanks a lot!

Lead.

dmracing

iTrader: (80)

The ECU is all you need. Also one o2 sensor to run both. That’s it

onebadbowtie86

iTrader: (13)

Is there a way to adjust the tach out put signal, or is there a need to to control an older gm factory tach (85 IROC)?

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I comes with 2 outputs that you configure via the handheld/laptop. It does the standard 4 cylinder mode and I believe the other is 8cylinder but I'm not 100% on that.

onebadbowtie86

iTrader: (13)

Awesome thanks for the fast response!