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Has anyone tried the FItech 70050/70051

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Old 04-12-2018, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dmracing
I didn’t have to buy a sub harness to run the second o2. It came with the kit. Just had to buy the sensor
what is the advantage of running 2 o2 sensors rather than just 1
Old 04-12-2018, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by dawgs74
can't seem yo get the fan to come on....is it normally grounded or does ecu send ground signal.....
Dude, u need to read the instructions or get some help. Your going to destroy the system by hooking it up wrong.

Fan outputs from the PCM send a ground signal to trigger a relay and not the fan itself. It says it in the instructions and has been brought up here before.
Old 04-12-2018, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dmracing
I didn’t have to buy a sub harness to run the second o2. It came with the kit. Just had to buy the sensor
Bingo!
Old 04-12-2018, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cula8r
As mentioned earlier the main harness has provisions for the passenger side O2 harness, you need to buy a sub harness @ 50.00 for the O2 sensor to plug into + a 2nd O2 sensor.http://www.oxygensensor-crossreferen...rt/bosch/17014

Here's a pic of the connecting plug.

What I find ridiculous is that FItech says you only need to run one O2 sensor, yeah right which side gets the nod. Yet when you buy the main harness with the trans controller you get the sub harness to run 2.
C'mon guys charge a few bucks more & supply both!
I mean it is what it is. Im not annoyed that they dont. I got my 2nd 02 for half what fitech charges... I would have been annoyed paying more for the sensor if it was included in the kit. But I understand what your saying.

FWIW older EFI systems only used 1 02 sensor from total engine control. Pre LS and sequential fuel injection (im talking older like TPI etc) they were batch fire and thus only required a single narrow band 02. They didnt step up to dual 02 for dual bank fuel trimming till the newer stuff came out. Its also not really needed as both sides of the engine should be running close, but if it has the capability then why not. I also only run 1 02 on my turbo 5.3 as its as single setup and the exhaust is mixed into a single pipe anyways.
Old 04-12-2018, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dawgs74
what is the advantage of running 2 o2 sensors rather than just 1
Dual bank fuel trimming. It can richen up or lean out either side to balance the A/F ratio. Its not technically needed.
Old 04-12-2018, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
Dude, u need to read the instructions or get some help. Your going to destroy the system by hooking it up wrong.

Fan outputs from the PCM send a ground signal to trigger a relay and not the fan itself. It says it in the instructions and has been brought up here before.
I did read them.....but I have no yellow fan wire......I think those instructions were for diffrent model....I think im just gonna get a separate fan controller since nobody seems to know .......and I'm not gonna destroy anything.........yet.
Old 04-12-2018, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dawgs74
I did read them.....but I have no yellow fan wire......I think those instructions were for diffrent model....I think im just gonna get a separate fan controller since nobody seems to know .......and I'm not gonna destroy anything.........yet.
the relay is already tied into the harness....your saying fan 1 sends a ground signal to activate and run 12v keyed to positive side? Kinda like the whole check engine light on factory ecu...comes on with ground signal. ...
Old 04-12-2018, 05:51 PM
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Dawgs is your quoted response directed to me for my problem?

It seems odd to me that some seem to get more parts with their kits than others. When I received mine it had two 02 sensors included. It didn't have the transmission harness but I gave them a call and had one in no time with no questions asked.
Old 04-12-2018, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ozarks
Dawgs is your quoted response directed to me for my problem?

It seems odd to me that some seem to get more parts with their kits than others. When I received mine it had two 02 sensors included. It didn't have the transmission harness but I gave them a call and had one in no time with no questions asked.
no not responding towards your problem, what was your problem I'm sure it will pop up on my problem list next.....my issue was with my cooling fan hook up......my harness already has the relays wired up ,my fan mode is enabled and I'm reverse testing the circuit with a check light in ground mode....it's sending it's ground signal but still not powering on....I'm just gonna use an auxiliary fan controller since I can't figure the **** out......the instructions that came with it has fan wiring installation for a throttle body efi setup.......instructions aren't worth a ****.......but no I only got one 02 sensor, as advertised for the 70050....I'm guessing you got the one with the trans controller and they forgot your trans harness........they forgot 1 of my ev1 sub harnesses. ..but sent one to me right away. .....I'm thinking of running the second 02 sensor as well
Old 04-12-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ozarks
Bought the 70051 harness for a LQ4 swap i'm having done. Using a Edelbrock ProFlow intake and Holley Sniper TB with the IAC control motor upgrade on a fresh built motor.
Got it all installed and tried to fire it up and it didn't sound good. Sounded like it was hitting on 4 cylinders and throwing codes for the IAC. The MAP sensor that came with the harness checks back to a 05 Cadillac V6. The IAC was throwing a code instantly.
The guys doing the swap and wiring called Fitech and was told that they have had problems with their harnesses on Holley TB's.
The map sensor, TB and harness was swapped out to original and the engine fired right up and ran fine.
Anyone have any ideas why the Sniper throttle body would cause problems and what that Map sensor would do. We have ordered the GM#12592525 MAP and it's on the way.
have you tried that gm map sensor yet.....mine came with Chinese bosch map sensor I also have the gm one but I'm using the Chinese supplied one and it seems to be fine.......if I recall blackbird said that the kpa values are slightly different between the 2 sensors......
Old 04-13-2018, 11:54 AM
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The Fitech harness should not have any fan relays wired in. The fan control should be 2 wires (high and low). Both are ground triggers for the ECM. Your external fan wiring should be controlled by relays (4 or 5 pin). Each relay should have a POS (battery and fan output) large gauge wire. Then the relay activation should be 12v Constant or ignition 12v, then the Fitech harness connects to the other pin to ground the relay activation and thus send power out from the relay to the fan and boom. You can trigger the ground or 12v side of any fan with the relay but it still needs to be controlled by the Fitech ground signal.

You should post pics of the (gauge side wiring) which has the tach/AC/FAN wiring. Should be easy to see everything. But maybe you got the wrong kit. The relay block with the 70050 kit has dual relays but one is literally for the PCM and to power the fuse block and the other is for the fuel pump if I remember correctly.

GM and Bosch can put out 2 different sensor values. The GM will usually read higher with the EOKO (mine was around 112kpa) and the Bosch read the correct 99.5kpa. The reason is the slight difference in MAP sensor scaling and the GM reads a full 305kpa where the Bosch stops around 285kpa. Which means the overall MAP scaling is off slightly and thus the EOKO value reading high.
Old 04-13-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ozarks
Bought the 70051 harness for a LQ4 swap i'm having done. Using a Edelbrock ProFlow intake and Holley Sniper TB with the IAC control motor upgrade on a fresh built motor.
Got it all installed and tried to fire it up and it didn't sound good. Sounded like it was hitting on 4 cylinders and throwing codes for the IAC. The MAP sensor that came with the harness checks back to a 05 Cadillac V6. The IAC was throwing a code instantly.
The guys doing the swap and wiring called Fitech and was told that they have had problems with their harnesses on Holley TB's.
The map sensor, TB and harness was swapped out to original and the engine fired right up and ran fine.
Anyone have any ideas why the Sniper throttle body would cause problems and what that Map sensor would do. We have ordered the GM#12592525 MAP and it's on the way.
Got a pic of the MAP it came with?

The Sniper TBs are just rebranded cheap ebay TBs. The holley sniper is the same as my WARR which is the same as the Gforce etc. There are some fitment issues with the chinese TBs and the sensors. WARR takes the time to verify they fit but I still had issues with my 92mm WARR TB. I had to modify my new ACdelco TPS to fit it compared to the stock TB.

Swap the sensors from the Stock TB (good GM sensors) into the chinese TB and verify the TPS% with the engine off and then at WOT engine off. On the Procal software you can see in gauge form the sweep of the TPS sensor, should be smooth and no values jumping around. Originally I was only reading 78% max TPS at WOT after modding the sensor I got it up to 88%.

Might be cheap sensors or bad sensors supplied with the Fitech kit. As we already know the sensors are chinese.
Old 04-13-2018, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
The Fitech harness should not have any fan relays wired in. The fan control should be 2 wires (high and low). Both are ground triggers for the ECM. Your external fan wiring should be controlled by relays (4 or 5 pin). Each relay should have a POS (battery and fan output) large gauge wire. Then the relay activation should be 12v Constant or ignition 12v, then the Fitech harness connects to the other pin to ground the relay activation and thus send power out from the relay to the fan and boom. You can trigger the ground or 12v side of any fan with the relay but it still needs to be controlled by the Fitech ground signal.

You should post pics of the (gauge side wiring) which has the tach/AC/FAN wiring. Should be easy to see everything. But maybe you got the wrong kit. The relay block with the 70050 kit has dual relays but one is literally for the PCM and to power the fuse block and the other is for the fuel pump if I remember correctly.

GM and Bosch can put out 2 different sensor values. The GM will usually read higher with the EOKO (mine was around 112kpa) and the Bosch read the correct 99.5kpa. The reason is the slight difference in MAP sensor scaling and the GM reads a full 305kpa where the Bosch stops around 285kpa. Which means the overall MAP scaling is off slightly and thus the EOKO value reading high.
thank you for explaining that in terms I can understand, my stupid *** thought the two relays were for the fuel pump and fan, I had not know it was for the ecu........so i planned on stealing my old (new)fan relay off of my stock ecu......thanks again, you should copyright those instructions and sell them to fitech. .........
Old 04-13-2018, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
Got a pic of the MAP it came with?

The Sniper TBs are just rebranded cheap ebay TBs. The holley sniper is the same as my WARR which is the same as the Gforce etc. There are some fitment issues with the chinese TBs and the sensors. WARR takes the time to verify they fit but I still had issues with my 92mm WARR TB. I had to modify my new ACdelco TPS to fit it compared to the stock TB.

Swap the sensors from the Stock TB (good GM sensors) into the chinese TB and verify the TPS% with the engine off and then at WOT engine off. On the Procal software you can see in gauge form the sweep of the TPS sensor, should be smooth and no values jumping around. Originally I was only reading 78% max TPS at WOT after modding the sensor I got it up to 88%.

Might be cheap sensors or bad sensors supplied with the Fitech kit. As we already know the sensors are chinese.
Fitech supplied map sensor .......
Just gonna run 1 fan.....
if you don't mind me asking how much did you sell your torqstorm supercharger for?
Old 04-13-2018, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
Got a pic of the MAP it came with?

The Sniper TBs are just rebranded cheap ebay TBs. The holley sniper is the same as my WARR which is the same as the Gforce etc. There are some fitment issues with the chinese TBs and the sensors. WARR takes the time to verify they fit but I still had issues with my 92mm WARR TB. I had to modify my new ACdelco TPS to fit it compared to the stock TB.

Swap the sensors from the Stock TB (good GM sensors) into the chinese TB and verify the TPS% with the engine off and then at WOT engine off. On the Procal software you can see in gauge form the sweep of the TPS sensor, should be smooth and no values jumping around. Originally I was only reading 78% max TPS at WOT after modding the sensor I got it up to 88%.

Might be cheap sensors or bad sensors supplied with the Fitech kit. As we already know the sensors are chinese.
The pic Dawgs posted of his MAP sensor appears to be the same as what I got. The first line of numbers right under Bosch are different but all others are the same. I suppose the GM MAP sensor will work correct?
As far as the sensors on the TB we had to modify them to fit also. I did get the replacement IAC motor that Holley says needs to be changed.
Hopefully we will have better results this weekend. Plan on using the new GM MAP sensor with the old TB and harness first since we know it works then move on from there.
Old 04-13-2018, 08:05 PM
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My 70050 kit didn’t come with a map sensor. I use the ZL1 3 bar map sensor. All is good
Old 04-14-2018, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dmracing
My 70050 kit didn’t come with a map sensor. I use the ZL1 3 bar map sensor. All is good
Does anybody know how long or how many cycles are required for the ecu to be sum what self tuned....I literally got mine fired off and it just seems really rich and reeks of petrol,gonna verify I don't have a leaking injector before I wash something, but I'm just curious as to how long it should be before it should start to smell and run like one of my late model ls based vehicles. .....Thnx in advance
Old 04-14-2018, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by dawgs74
Does anybody know how long or how many cycles are required for the ecu to be sum what self tuned....I literally got mine fired off and it just seems really rich and reeks of petrol,gonna verify I don't have a leaking injector before I wash something, but I'm just curious as to how long it should be before it should start to smell and run like one of my late model ls based vehicles. .....Thnx in advance
None of ours ever reeked of petrol. Seems like there must be a leak somewhere. You should verify that all cylinders have spark and that all injectors are firing. Check the IAC steps on the hand held. The throttle stop should be adjusted until the IAC steps are 3-10. After that you can drive it. Fitech says 2 hours, but we found it gets pretty close in a few minutes.
Old 04-14-2018, 03:01 PM
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I’m didn’t smell either and learned quickly
Old 04-14-2018, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dmracing
I’m didn’t smell either and learned quickly
I'm thinking I have a leaking injector


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