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Has anyone had luck installing actual injector offset data without the thing going apeshit with it? I plugged in correctly interpolated data for the fic 114lbs injectors I'm running and it ran like dog **** for my efforts👎 seems it needs the injector turn-off delay time to be correct along with offset multiplier, both of which injector companies don't provide. I don't give up easy and have fought this ******* thing for months at this point. It'll go up for sale in Oct when I pickle the boat for winter it's getting Holley hp, I'm done with fitech bullshit.
***** Anyone reading this thread thinking about this kit, don't cheap out like I did, go Holley. Fitech gives you control up to 6krpms also, which is also bullshit for anyone wanting to control ignition better than a damn msd c.o.p box😏 so far with fitech I've had it lose calibrations 3 times(would've smoked my sbe had i made boost this way), dash vs laptop data isn't even close, nothing injector data related is common amongst ALL other efi systems,tables stop at 6k even in laptop procal. I wanted a clean running motor that used provided injector data , I could have ignition control fully over the ranges I'll run it, fitech ls kits aren't that. Instead of installing correct data into it you get to lie to it till fuel learns and trims are good, how fun👿
I knew it was too good to be true. I'm a holley efi man myself and was playing with the idea of going Fitech because the price of the system seemed amazing! But reading about all the hassles just trying to get the engine to run right seems way too risky to chance with a $10,000 engine IMO anyway. The calibratons getting lost is a total deal breaker, is it a known issue?? Who covers the cost of your engine if it got smoked because of a shitty software package?? If that were me I'd probably just throw the system in the garbage or put it back in the box and never speak of it again, I wouldn't even feel right selling it to a guy. You get what you pay for I guess I'll stick with my holley stuff. Have fun
I knew it was too good to be true. I'm a holley efi man myself and was playing with the idea of going Fitech because the price of the system seemed amazing! But reading about all the hassles just trying to get the engine to run right seems way too risky to chance with a $10,000 engine IMO anyway. The calibratons getting lost is a total deal breaker, is it a known issue?? Who covers the cost of your engine if it got smoked because of a shitty software package?? If that were me I'd probably just throw the system in the garbage or put it back in the box and never speak of it again, I wouldn't even feel right selling it to a guy. You get what you pay for I guess I'll stick with my holley stuff. Have fun
Yes sir I regret fully not going Holley, I had high hopes for the fitech but they expect you to trust **** you can't even look at or trust to still be there! I'm sure it's ok for someone who doesnt care to know some of these things and just wants to run low boost with efi, but I care about not sinking my dragboat and NEED to know it's working with the data I provide it. I really don't trust it at this point, hoping it doesn't cost me a motor or boat. too late to make the switch to Holley till late fall☹️ I didn't arrive at this attitude after a wk or two of it running bad, ive been dealing with it for months now trying to get data corrected and to stay .
Yes sir I regret fully not going Holley, I had high hopes for the fitech but they expect you to trust **** you can't even look at or trust to still be there! I'm sure it's ok for someone who doesnt care to know some of these things and just wants to run low boost with efi, but I care about not sinking my dragboat and NEED to know it's working with the data I provide it. I really don't trust it at this point, hoping it doesn't cost me a motor or boat. too late to make the switch to Holley till late fall☹️ I didn't arrive at this attitude after a wk or two of it running bad, ive been dealing with it for months now trying to get data corrected and to stay .
Yea I hear that. What's Fitech support like? Do they have any insight as to why the thing loses the calibration and do they put out any software updates?? I wouldn't trust it either especially on a drag boat where everything is Uber expensive!! That be a nightmare driving in the middle of nowhere and it crapped out on a guy or worse it craps out in the city cause we know everybody is super patient driving in the city!! Sucks your having so many issues man especially now that summer is upon us and you can't play. Have fun big guy
Fitech support is worse than you have read or herd. Honestly Jonathon's knowledge eclipse most fitech tech line guys. I've been waiting to hear back from their ls kit expert Bryce for days about the injector offset data, injector turn-off delay. Fic emailed back today finally with proper injector offset multiplier % that goes along with the interpolated data ive got on these injectors.
as far as the losing data stuff, I'm clueless to what happened. Boat has a battery tender that never allows battery to get low, so there was never a low voltage cranking issue that might have jacked with ecu etc.. I reloaded the 24x base tune in handheld then went back thru laptop correcting what I'd done before. Another time I read ecu to laptop, made a change, sent it to ecu then hit the calibrate tab up top that saves tune to ecu, turned key off to allow ecu power down. Tried to fire it off after that and it'd lost most of my initial engine setup inputs. simply a pain in the ***, I've had to take pix with my cell of all the tables etc I've changed jus in case it happens again ��
Fitech support is worse than you have read or herd. Honestly Jonathon's knowledge eclipse most fitech tech line guys. I've been waiting to hear back from their ls kit expert Bryce for days about the injector offset data, injector turn-off delay. Fic emailed back today finally with proper injector offset multiplier % that goes along with the interpolated data ive got on these injectors.
as far as the losing data stuff, I'm clueless to what happened. Boat has a battery tender that never allows battery to get low, so there was never a low voltage cranking issue that might have jacked with ecu etc.. I reloaded the 24x base tune in handheld then went back thru laptop correcting what I'd done before. Another time I read ecu to laptop, made a change, sent it to ecu then hit the calibrate tab up top that saves tune to ecu, turned key off to allow ecu power down. Tried to fire it off after that and it'd lost most of my initial engine setup inputs. simply a pain in the ***, I've had to take pix with my cell of all the tables etc I've changed jus in case it happens again ��
I agree. ...if it weren't for Jonathon my car prolly still wouldn't run......
I am having an issue hopefully someone can help me with. My AFR goes crazy and I cant figure it out. First off let me say that I have no experience with fuel injection...I understand the concept, have done some reading, but no real world hands on tuning. That being said, I switched from a blow thru carb/victor intake to this system with a fast 102. The car starts, idles well, fans do their thing. IAC steps fluctuate around 5-8. Idle afr target is dead on...13.5-13.9. Verified with an AEM wideband. Only running 1 o2 in the downpipe + the aem. Turbo is an s475. I am using the big timing table, and my unit acted exactly like blackbirds...all the exact same quirks. Anyway, the problem is at idle all is well. As soon as I touch the gas, the afr goes off the charts lean. Shoots up to around 21, then comes back down when I let off. Sometimes if I hold the pedal steady, it will slowly recover somewhat and come down to around 17. Throttle response is good. Sometimes it throws the code 136 for the 02. The only afr table I can find is ridiculous, but is set to 12.5 at 95kpa. What could be causing this and where would you guys suggest I look first? I would definitely appreciate any help you guys could give me.
I am having an issue hopefully someone can help me with. My AFR goes crazy and I cant figure it out. First off let me say that I have no experience with fuel injection...I understand the concept, have done some reading, but no real world hands on tuning. That being said, I switched from a blow thru carb/victor intake to this system with a fast 102. The car starts, idles well, fans do their thing. IAC steps fluctuate around 5-8. Idle afr target is dead on...13.5-13.9. Verified with an AEM wideband. Only running 1 o2 in the downpipe + the aem. Turbo is an s475. I am using the big timing table, and my unit acted exactly like blackbirds...all the exact same quirks. Anyway, the problem is at idle all is well. As soon as I touch the gas, the afr goes off the charts lean. Shoots up to around 21, then comes back down when I let off. Sometimes if I hold the pedal steady, it will slowly recover somewhat and come down to around 17. Throttle response is good. Sometimes it throws the code 136 for the 02. The only afr table I can find is ridiculous, but is set to 12.5 at 95kpa. What could be causing this and where would you guys suggest I look first? I would definitely appreciate any help you guys could give me.
Did you switch the returnless fuel system off if you're manifold referenced to regulator ? There is also a setting for alpha n for super charger or na, it should be changed from stock setting to super
Did you switch the returnless fuel system off if you're manifold referenced to regulator ? There is also a setting for alpha n for super charger or na, it should be changed from stock setting to super
damn.....I'm glad I'm not going boosted, that **** seems wayyyyy to complicated. .........n/a wise its pretty simple,add the pressure and ,well..........hopefully you get something to work ,summer is definitely getting closer..........
I did switch the returnless option off, but did not change the Alpha n setting, but will do so now.
It won't fix anything but guys were saying in higher boost the map reading goes haywire and switching the alpha n to super cured that issue for them.
You've played with transients any? My accel settings are ok, but the fast accel was super rich with my injectors , had to pull alot away to get decent throttle response .
I have started to, but my limited knowledge makes me leary of making too many changes at once. I dont' want to end up making it worse. I know I can always reload a stock tune and start over, but this is getting time consuming and aggravating. Looking at your posts, I'm sure you know all too well, and u obviously know what you're doing...
damn.....I'm glad I'm not going boosted, that **** seems wayyyyy to complicated. .........n/a wise its pretty simple,add the pressure and ,well..........hopefully you get something to work ,summer is definitely getting closer..........
Fitech is just complicated for no apparent reason , almost every kinda other ecu out there you enter injector data as voltage/offset pw/kpa and do it in milliseconds at very common voltage levels most of the ecu's all use. Not fitech they have a couple offset data points that are similar, the other 6 you have to know excel well to interpolate from Holley data etc.. I know **** about excel but a fella on fb was kind enough to do it for me and it's correct. Others ecu has you do closing time(inj turn-off) based on voltage sorta like a offset chart, not fitech you get 1 input for injector turn-off time and noone knows at what voltage its suppose to be entered at. In trying to learn procal , ive honestly become more familiar with Holley hp than I am the fitech I own😏 bought it thinking it'd be easier learning curve, anything but the case when there is sooooo much help out there for holley and we cant even get fitech on a phone in less than 40mins hold time or sending emails that are never returned/answered
I have started to, but my limited knowledge makes me leary of making too many changes at once. I dont' want to end up making it worse. I know I can always reload a stock tune and start over, but this is getting time consuming and aggravating. Looking at your posts, I'm sure you know all too well, and u obviously know what you're doing...
Jonathon is the sharp one on this stuff, ive learned half of it from him, the other half reading forums posts on Holley's site. was a gm mastertech for almost a couple decades, but this was my first aftermarket efi deal also.
Just snap a cell pic of anything before you change it, if you make things worse go back to it.
Fitech is just complicated for no apparent reason , almost every kinda other ecu out there you enter injector data as voltage/offset pw/kpa and do it in milliseconds at very common voltage levels most of the ecu's all use. Not fitech they have a couple offset data points that are similar, the other 6 you have to know excel well to interpolate from Holley data etc.. I know **** about excel but a fella on fb was kind enough to do it for me and it's correct. Others ecu has you do closing time(inj turn-off) based on voltage sorta like a offset chart, not fitech you get 1 input for injector turn-off time and noone knows at what voltage its suppose to be entered at. In trying to learn procal , ive honestly become more familiar with Holley hp than I am the fitech I own😏 bought it thinking it'd be easier learning curve, anything but the case when there is sooooo much help out there for holley and we cant even get fitech on a phone in less than 40mins hold time or sending emails that are never returned/answered
I'm just a plumber I know **** when it comes to electronics.......the previous owner had it all set up for standalone, I seen it in action working with my own eyes before I purchased the motor .....needless to say he did a very sloppy job and that is why I went fitech......cause I had also plan on swapping to a 370" once it's done and I didn't wanna have to pay a tuner every time I mod something. ......maybe I will send this one in to get re-worked and put it in a lsx-Flip investment car......
I knew it was too good to be true. I'm a holley efi man myself and was playing with the idea of going Fitech because the price of the system seemed amazing! But reading about all the hassles just trying to get the engine to run right seems way too risky to chance with a $10,000 engine IMO anyway. The calibratons getting lost is a total deal breaker, is it a known issue?? Who covers the cost of your engine if it got smoked because of a shitty software package?? If that were me I'd probably just throw the system in the garbage or put it back in the box and never speak of it again, I wouldn't even feel right selling it to a guy. You get what you pay for I guess I'll stick with my holley stuff. Have fun
seeing as you know holley stuff better than fitech ,do you know or think a holley 4150 style throttle body will read on a fitech 70050, I was wanting to go this route instead of an intake elbow to give the intake a more traditional approach. ....I had one of these in mind. Anybody got any experience with them? Are they junk? Or should I just get an elbow....
Has the iat sensor built in already .....so thats a plus.....
...do you know or think a holley 4150 style throttle body will read on a fitech 70050...
I wanted to keep the stock style air filter on my Monte. I used an Edelbrock FI throttle body.
The Fitech ECM doesn't know or care what the hardware is, so long as it sees the expected inputs and outputs from sensors and such. The Edelbrock TB uses the same IAC and TPS as LS engines.
I initially added an IAT sensor in a plastic air filter spacer ring but it raised the filter too high. I ended up drilling the TB and poking it in right above a primary throttle blade.
I wanted to keep the stock style air filter on my Monte. I used an Edelbrock FI throttle body.
The Fitech ECM doesn't know or care what the hardware is, so long as it sees the expected inputs and outputs from sensors and such. The Edelbrock TB uses the same IAC and TPS as LS engines.
I initially added an IAT sensor in a plastic air filter spacer ring but it raised the filter too high. I ended up drilling the TB and poking it in right above a primary throttle blade.
I suppose I can always go that route too.....on top of a holley intake......lol. how much does the edelbrock units run for?
READ BEFORE YOU VIEW THIS VIDEO:
-It’s a poor video, I’ll make a better one;
-It’s a high lift mechanical lifter, under the hood that’s all we hear;
-This is a very first test fire, much tuning will need to be done;
-After 20 minutes, it learned and ran better.
-This engine is 496 inches and has not been run since about 1995;
-Edelbrock throttle body, 58x crank sensor, 1x cam sensor.
-IT RUNS!!!!
05-11-2018, 11:05 AM
