Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Have you had it running ever on the fitech? Might make sure you can even get it running on a "small" injector first.

Can you try more drastic changes? Drop engine size by half… try upping injector size over 210 etc…

IMPATIENT 1

Yes sir tried dropping engine size to drop idc but it didnt help. I sold the 210s in 5mins this morning on fb and ordered flow max fic 1000cc deals that flow 114lbs at 58 base, they should handle 1200 crank on gas according to fic. I'll start them at 43.5 base where they make 95lbs and once I get to 90% idc , I'll go to 58 base and change fitech injector setting to 114lbs.

It's ran but so sick it wouldn't idle on its own and looked like a diesel rolling coal the tech in me has triple checked everything I could've possibly done to create the issue, but no intake leaks etc to be found

IMPATIENT 1

The fic 1000cc deals show to be out for delivery, I'll report back how it does with them.


Was thinking over the wknd is it easier for efi to learn using static pressure + boost reference(pre throttlebody) or is manifold referenced to see vacuum and boost still fine?

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Yup! But its JonathAn!! lol

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

I think the fitech does both... Non return style and return style... Ive played with the settings on procal Not sure what it does exactly but it does talk about the vacuum referenced or not. You want the fuel pressure regulator to be referenced to MANIFOLD vacuum (in the intake after the TB) that way the regulator sees actual engine vacuum/boost for the correct fuel pressure metering. Putting the reference pre TB is bad! Same thing goes for BOV referencing... you want it post TB Or in the intake. When I was running my centri supercharger I originally hooked up my BOV to the PCV port on the TB thinking it was fine and it was open to the intake track but pre TB. The issue is that its basically wrong all the time. When the TB blade closes there is spike in pressure as the air slams into the TB at supersonic speeds, the pressure is still boost and thus the BOV is forced shut. I saw boost on my engine in park with very light reving when I had my BOV hooked to the PCV port on the TB.

Same goes for MAP Sensor, FPR, BOV etc... it all gets referenced after the TB or in the intake manifold. The Fitech software will compensate for the fuel pressure loss (loss of flow) due to engine vacuum and will compensate as well for boost (same flow as base FP setting at 58psi) flow doesnt increase as it just equalizes out the pressure in the manifold, if anything flow decreases slightly as pressure increases in the lines and pump.

So in short done ever put anything in the intake track except for IAT. Also for turbo you want the WG referenced on the snail compressor outlet for the most accurate WG opening pressure (before losses of the tubing/bends/IC etc) otherwise hooking it to the intake will get you your intended Boost pressure but your turbo will be creating more boost than what the engine is seeing due to losses.

IMPATIENT 1

I'm already manifold reference on regulator with 1/4 air line and fittings like everywhere else was just thinking maybe fitech had to be stastic to begin with. I'm trying mbc on manifold also this go around vs comp housing like ive done in the past. The way we race locally is like roll racing I guess, we high idle up to a bouy then nail it. The mbc I use has a ceramic bearing being pushed by a spring like your basic hallman deal so it's a check valve to vacuum as well, I checked with my mighty vac to make sure it'd hold and it does. Has a tiny bleeder hole after that to prevent gate lockup. Just seeing it it'll spool alittle quicker this way vs the higher pressure it'd see pre a2w. I'm sure I'll see a nice spike but that'll just get my impellor moving

Is there any reason not to put iat on manifold itself? I've got mine on the #8 runner(vic jr factory vac port)

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Got a pic of the MBC? I thought about running one for more than 12psi gate but I always read its a bad idea.

IAT in the manifold is best as its the more accurate IAT temps that the engine will ingest. I run mine in the intake as well for the PCM but I also run a pre and post IAT glowshift gauge to keep a "visual" on my IAT temps (pre and post FMIC) and I can see the gauge go down more when my water/meth activates.

IMPATIENT 1

I've been using the voodoo mbc with ceramic upgrade, they're around 25 shipped. Worked pretty well last two times ive ran them so I made a fancy mounting bracket to place it where I could get at it easily. I'll snap a pic tonite, hopefully after a successful injector install on it

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Cool, just found it on ebay. How do you have it plumbed? Compressor pressure enters the side or bottom? And the other port obviously goes to the WG inlet.

IMPATIENT 1

I'm running a 3/32 hose from intake to the bottom nipple then I used a quick connect air line tee on the side to send it to gates. Worked real well on last couple boats, was good for 10 over whatever springs gave.


Update: the fic injectors got me running ! Need to figure out iac adjustment and add some accel shot but otherwise sounds niceeeeee. I cranked the idle screw in alot to get iac high so it busts off to a high idle right now but it busts off

dmracing

iTrader: (80)

Here’s the process for setting the iac
IAC Steps:

Turn the driver’s side throttle adjustment screw IN (clockwise) half a turn to start with, with that done turn the key on and go to dashboard and find TPS and make sure it reads zero. If not, then shut the key off and wait for the numbers to go black then turn the key on again. Once that reads zero start the vehicle and find IAC Steps on dashboard. This number needs to be within 3-10 at warm idle. If the number reads zero then slowly turn the screw OUT (counter clockwise) until the IAC steps reads between 3-10. If the number is above 10 then shut the vehicle off and turn the screw IN as stated above and repeat the process until the IAC steps are between 3-10.

IMPATIENT 1

Thanx dm! Jonathon helped me from fb, got it in the teens now but need to put it on the water hose to run it very long, open cooling system , it gets it cooling from jetpump. iac for sure has more control over cranking air now and sure starts nicer.

IMPATIENT 1

Sorry about the dark pic, wasn't paying attention flash was off. Lil voodoo in frt of elbow

dmracing

iTrader: (80)

Your welcome. So it’s running good with the 1000s. What is that like a 95lb injector?

dmracing

iTrader: (80)

I was going to try the id1300x’s

IMPATIENT 1

Yes sir 95@43.5 114@58 flow max ev1 . They run great, set rail to 44, reloaded the 24x 60e tune and started over on initial setup. Had to use zipties between idle screw to give more air to fire off on but once it did I pulled that out and slowly closed throttle and it picked it up from there. Has started fine ever since without any help.

Turned the trans ,Ac,knock sensors off , I assume that'll give me full timing at idle.seems that was a issue earlier in this thread

dawgs74

is it necessary to add second o2 sensors, I have true duAL exhaust, I was thinking I can put an o2 on one side and a.f.r. sensor on the other...or do I have to run both 02s cause of separate exhaust banks and drill a third hole for a/f/r. Also do the beetle o2 sensors fit in standard ls1 style 02 bungs? I just ordered a fitech kit t last nite and I wanna make sure I have all the stuff together to make it work already seen I need a ls3 to ls1 map sensor adapter. ....but what else......I figured I'd go with fitech because I'm building a 370" to replace my 5.3 one day....and I never got my 5.3 fired off of stock ecu so I'm tired of chasing wires just to have to reflash and tune ecu every time I change sumthin. ..and my 370" I plan on making 500+hp alot more than my cammed 5.3.......

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

nope. you can run one, the fitech software will just make global changes to the engine fuel wise. Basically you won't have bank 1 and bank 2 separate fuel tuning. I only run one but Its in my turbo downpipe which is merged anyways.

Most 02s have a standard 18mm thread pitch so they will usually all thread into any 02 bung. The beetle 02 is essentially just a bosch WB02... used in the turbo beetle application.

You will need the MAP sensor Adapter if your planning on running a stock style MAP, but you will need to get the GM LS9 3 BAR MAP sensor for your Fitech to work correctly... word is now the new kits come with a bosch 3BAR MAP sensor. You have to run a 3 bar map due to the tuning in the PCM which is preset for the 3 bar. Running a 1 bar stock sensor will cause lots of issues since all the voltage to pressure will be WAYYY off.

BTW your 500+hp 370 is nothing for the Fitech... I make more than that on my 5.3 with the Fitech... guessing around 650-700hp. IMPATIENT1 above is going to making alot more lol. The Fitech will work on your cammed 5.3 and your wild 370 without any hesitation.

customblackbird

iTrader: (2)

Haha can't see diddly but sure. Ive read that you should run the MBC with the ports Tee'd to the top and bottom of the WG. Seems that no one can really make up there mind on how to actually plub these.

Hellsx

Hey guys,

Been awhile since i chimed in.

Just wanted to make sure everyone knows about Sloppy Mechanics right??

Just cause since were talking boost control, they are working on a low $ boost controller these days and i just got on Dale at twisted builds "news update list" yesterday and figured it would be of interest.

Havent made the move on FiTech or holley yet, car is getting built still!! Lots done, more to do still LOL!!

Lead.