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Going into a 2010 18ft gull-wing , I'll detune and run the 9sec 1/4 class with sdba. Gen 4 5.3 ,btr stage 3 cam kit, basic sbe upgrades with bosch 210s from start245 Latvian ebay seller and twin 380lph quantum pumps. Twin on3 70s again since I had great luck with them on last dragboat, lake cooled a2w and 38 gates
Waiting at this point, ordered 70050 yesterday from lsxceleration . A few fellas have converted the 1200 power adder tbi to bosch 210s on the fb fitech user and owner pages with great success, it's the same injector drivers as ultimate kit but ls kit sequential. I'm not worried about it too much, should work fine for my goals. Will be laying 25lbs or so to it, 7300-7500 wfo
Waiting at this point, ordered 70050 yesterday from lsxceleration . A few fellas have converted the 1200 power adder tbi to bosch 210s on the fb fitech user and owner pages with great success, it's the same injector drivers as ultimate kit but ls kit sequential. I'm not worried about it too much, should work fine for my goals. Will be laying 25lbs or so to it, 7300-7500 wfo
Nice!!! Id like to see how you hypung your coild under the covers. Looking at ideas.
We use motor plates to mount the motor so I had plenty of room on the block to mount them, just used a cleaned up set of gm stock ls wires and put a Taylor 90* boot kit on them. Powder coated to match rest of motor , every fastener on motor is stainless Allen.
Be careful with the quantum pumps... cheap knock off bosch or AEM 380s. I looked into the quantum bc they are all over ebay but decided to get the AEM 380. Make sure to not run the check valve fitting as it blocks more flow than they say it does.
Be careful with the quantum pumps... cheap knock off bosch or AEM 380s. I looked into the quantum bc they are all over ebay but decided to get the AEM 380. Make sure to not run the check valve fitting as it blocks more flow than they say it does.
Ive got a aem also, the quantum either comes out of same plant or from their old tooling, even case crimping marks are the same. I already ditched the checkvalves in the outlet, drill bit made quick work of them lol I'll be running both pumps all the time off of ignition input to relay. Gasoline deal so maybe they'll last, if not they've got lifetime warranty then I'll send em back and sell the replacments😜
Ive got a aem also, the quantum either comes out of same plant or from their old tooling, even case crimping marks are the same. I already ditched the checkvalves in the outlet, drill bit made quick work of them lol I'll be running both pumps all the time off of ignition input to relay. Gasoline deal so maybe they'll last, if not they've got lifetime warranty then I'll send em back and sell the replacments😜
got ya. Nice setup tho. I’d just be worried about losing one and leaning out.
got ya. Nice setup tho. I’d just be worried about losing one and leaning out.
For sure a concern and without the fitech watching fuel pressure and correcting lean issues, it's even more of a concern. I read about the quantum's for a few months on the sloppy page, seemed to hold up well with e85 for them so I'm giving them a try. Will be using a lm2 on 1 turbo to watch afr and I can easily add a fuel pressure transducer to the lm2 datalogging and prob will. I need 4 of its 5 extra inputs to watch jetpump pressure data points but have 1 left other than afr. The lm2 will keep the fitech wideband honest also�� I think these 380 pumps sell at different quality levels to different distributors, aem being just 1 that gets better qc work before packing and with better fittings, sorts like the china ss turbo headers. Without checkvalves in my twins I expect if 1 of them fails it'll show on the dash fuel pressure gauge I'll watch alot and datalogging . If one completely fails it should bypass pressure back thru the other pump and be weird on base pressure I'd imagine. I have cheap china ss mesh 100micron filters on each fuel tank, and a cheap 30micron filter housing after the pumps with a aeromotive 10micron element inside. 100 bux in all the filters lol but final filter is nice and the filter housing seals withstood 140psi shop air pressure without leakdown. They come with **** fittings,i use them for plugs when I powder coat lmao
The y block:
I have one AEM 380 as my pri. pump, and the Quantum as the sec. pump, comes on with 5 lbs boost, and also set up so if the pri. fails I can switch on the sec.-the Quantum has a smaller outlet size, noticed this when I mixed up the fittings, lol. It should be fine though-I did keep the ck valve in the Quantum, path of less resistance, I didn't know if under pressure the AEM would try and back feed thru it.
I have one AEM 380 as my pri. pump, and the Quantum as the sec. pump, comes on with 5 lbs boost, and also set up so if the pri. fails I can switch on the sec.-the Quantum has a smaller outlet size, noticed this when I mixed up the fittings, lol. It should be fine though-I did keep the ck valve in the Quantum, path of less resistance, I didn't know if under pressure the AEM would try and back feed thru it.
I didn't even pay the outlet size any attention, picked up the aem off one of the sale pages on fb 2nd hand that'd been run a season on racegas before the guy switched to a 4303, the plan was to use it as a primer pump and run a belt drive but budget got blown to **** good to hear the quantum is working decently ! How long have you been running it and on what fuel?
Fitech shipped out today , worked on the boat itself till 7 all wknd trying to get ready for motor and efi install. Found mysterious pieces of rubber inside old fuel line and fittings I pulled off to update to larger supply and turns out the fuel fill hoses to the tanks delam'd and sent rubber fragments into tanks and old fuel system.glad it was caught prior to making boost! Id been scratching my head wondering if it was the fitech or pumps😜 pulling tanks this wknd, otherwise fuel system is all new, did finish that at least.
Slowly adapting the wad of taped fitech harness to my deal. Converted the extra ev6 sub harnesses to run the sumitomo connectors. Removed and cleaned my fuel tanks today , motor goes in next weekend and possibly fire it to life sunday
My Fitech ECM, harness, engine are all working great. The one issue I have is that the tach is erratic and intermittent. It tracks the engine to between 2000 - 3000 RPMs and then drops back to under 1000. (I have a manual trans.) Then it will bounce back and forth a few times.
Any one else have this issue or is problem with the tach?
My Fitech ECM, harness, engine are all working great. The one issue I have is that the tach is erratic and intermittent. It tracks the engine to between 2000 - 3000 RPMs and then drops back to under 1000. (I have a manual trans.) Then it will bounce back and forth a few times.
Any one else have this issue or is problem with the tach?
No, but I run an aftermarket speed hut tach. Your tach needs to be able to accept the 4cyl signal the FItech puts out (stock LS tach signal) you can adjust by getting a tach that accepts 2/4/6/8 and set it to 4 or you can change it on the procal Fitech software. Im not sure what the signal changes to via the software but there is the option. I just run it in 4cyl mode on my tach and works great. I also just ran my home made test stand with a cheap sunpro 5" tach set to 4cyl bc its a stock LS PCM and it worked flawlessly.
Just wanted to update mine. We got a random 70+ degree day in Feb... which is unheard of so I decided to drop the car off the jacks and get a day of driving in to see how the Fitech does. Prob 30min of driving total to and from work. Gotta say it worked great honestly. THis thing had no driving time, just some idle time when it was on stands and I ended up changing the MAP value (reads at 112.8kpa with key off, i changed the MAP neg offset from 25 to 65 and brought it down to 101kpa) and just drove it. My town is very hilly so I wasnt exactly easy on it. Ended up getting into boost a few times too the FItech worked great and besides a very light "surge" or hesitation at very light throttle like you let go of the pedal and just barely touch it to keep speed which got better as I drove it worked great.
I datalogged the times when I knew I was going to get into boost and the logs show I hit about 6psi with 20* and a 11.7:1 AFR. THis was with less than 1/2 throttle and I should see about 12psi with the 12psi gate spring. I was getting into boost by 3k on one of the logs but also with light throttle. I datalogged 3 short boost hits and the first was super rich like 10.5:1 and by the third it was 11.76 which was close to commanded. The car feels great and Honestly I feel like I got alot more "low end" back that I didn't have with the supercharger. Also the car is stupid quiet which I love... didn't really get any turbo spool but I could hear the BOV noise when I let off.
5.3 1999 LS
ported stock 862 heads, Howard springs, Straub retrofitted rockers, ARP bolts
custom cam 218/228 .561/.561 114.5+5.5
stock bottom end, cloyes stock LS2 timing chain, GMPP HV oil pump
NNBS intake, 92mm WARR TB, Billet rails 60lb DEKA injectors
Fitech 70050 Kit
2004R built for 800hp, 2400 stall Billet 10" converter with oversized lockup
3" dennys nitrous ready DS
ford 8.8, Home made TQ Arm, 3.55 gears
CXracing 3rd gen single turbo kit, 76/65 journal turbo .81AR 3" DP
3" SS perforated core muffler in place of CAT
3" Summit Catback with 3" dynomax utlra SS perf core muffler
3" FMIC
750ml progressive 50/50 meth kit
No, but I run an aftermarket speed hut tach. Your tach needs to be able to accept the 4cyl signal the FItech puts out (stock LS tach signal) you can adjust by getting a tach that accepts 2/4/6/8 and set it to 4 or you can change it on the procal Fitech software. Im not sure what the signal changes to via the software but there is the option. I just run it in 4cyl mode on my tach and works great. I also just ran my home made test stand with a cheap sunpro 5" tach set to 4cyl bc its a stock LS PCM and it worked flawlessly.
Thanks, my other Ls has a stock ECM and Speedhut tach and works flawlessly. I think the answer is to get a Speedhut tach for this one.
that would be a easy option. But I would see if the tach signal options works first before spending the money on a not so cheap speedhut Tach. I know its available on the laptop with the procal software but not sure if its on the handheld.
02-10-2018, 11:05 AM
good to hear the quantum is working decently ! How long have you been running it and on what fuel?
the FItech worked great and besides a very light "surge" or hesitation at very light throttle like you let go of the pedal and just barely touch it to keep speed which got better as I drove it worked great.