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hey guys, got my system running better! need some help with the MAP sensor. Using the LS3 3bar (LS9 MAP) and with the key on engine off I'm seeing 112kpa. If I go into the MAP values I can change the Sensor negative offset from the pre programed 25 to 70 and it will bring the key on back down to 102kpa which is more accurate for my sea level I believe. I tried 2 sensors and got the same thing.
Can you guys verify your MAP kpa values with the key on? Also what the specs are when using laptop tuning?
After seriously hacking up the harness and literally dozens of soldered and shrinked connections, I've finally powered up my system. Can't run it yet because there's no fuel system but seeing this was a great relief to me.
I was able to input and save all my engine parameters. I'm feeling good.
Idle quality was giving me fits. It would idle at 750 for 3 or 4 seconds, then nearly stall and then recover - usually. Adjusting the idle steps helped but didn't solve the issue.
I changed the exhaust from a 2 in 2 out Flowmaster that dumped in front of the axle to 2 mufflers and extended the tailpipe out the rear. The idle completely smoothed out the first time I drove it. No idea why.
At this point, it works great with no drivability issues.
I'd ask what drivers are used and what the max amp draw is. Assuming they use the VND5N07 drivers like most others, they could drive the 210's no problem.
After seriously hacking up the harness and literally dozens of soldered and shrinked connections, I've finally powered up my system. Can't run it yet because there's no fuel system but seeing this was a great relief to me.
I was able to input and save all my engine parameters. I'm feeling good.
The harness is way too long for just about anything. I imagine most installers will coil the excess. I wanted everything just long enough.
I also consolidated the fuses to five under the dash in a more compact fuse holder block with the main power relay and the rest and the fuel relay under the hood.
This thread is getting kinda long, although I mentioned it a few months ago, I think it merits mentioning again.
The fuel pump relay supplied with this kit is a standard contact relay. It is NOT a pulse wave controlled solid state relay. Despite what Fitech and the instructions say, the fuel pump cannot be speed/voltage/pressure controlled by the ECM. It's on or off.
When discussing with them, they simply get flustered because the help guys are pretty clueless.
Ive been looking at all this closer and closer as im really interested to run E85 to maybe postpone my intercooler install for now and do it for next season.
Im not super familiar with injector drivers and connectors.
The injectors sold by VS racing are the ones I am talking about. You can get them straight from the bosch Latvia plant on Ebay for about $450. I have heard of a few people having issues doing this and not receiving the injectors, but have also heard many get them successfully. They work well on most other ECU’s with HI-Z injector drivers. I’d assume the FITECH is no different.
It would be soooo cool if FiTech would be just a tiny bit interested in its product and maybe be all about finding out if those injectors would/could work for example and stuff like that!!
Argh!!! People!!!
Sorry, bad day.
Oh well. Guess its not everyone that has the same interest to some things,
I think they don’t have a clue personally. I’m 98% sure they would work fine. The older FITech hand held unit ran the 210’s fine on my 240 LS swap. If they downgraded injector drivers from the older unit I’d be very surprised. I’d try it. Worst case you have to sell the most popular injector out at the moment for LS turbo swaps. You can get them for $408 shipped in the US or even less if you order out of the country.
A little bit late here but am thankful for this thread. this thread is fitech's tech support for this system. I installed my kit (750HP kit /no trans ctrl) and have learned a few things and figured that i would share. The overall quality of everything is 100%. my application is a turbo 5.3 on e85.
to run E85 i was told by fitech to add 30% to the cubic inches in the initial setup. if you switch injectors they must be a high impedance. the injectors supplied with my kit are LS3 height. the top O-ring is .565" and the bottom is .565". the height is 1.497". they come with EV1 connectors. all fittings on the fuel rails are initially -6AN, i converted mine to a -8AN feed and return.
I am running a single turbo and was told by fitech that i only need one o2 sensor and to disable the other one (passenger side) in the initial setup. i was told that the o2 sensor should be at least 4" behind the turbo, not on a curve, and have at least 18" of exhaust after it.
I have also learned that if you plan to run this with truck accessories you will need a car water pump with spacers and will need to relocate your idler pulley (ICT makes an affordable solution for both problems). also the fuel fittings for the crossover will contact the back of the truck alternator. if you want to keep the stock location for the truck alternator you will need to replace the fitting in the fuel rail with a 90 degree ORB fitting. i used an earls fitting.
like i said thank you for all of the information. Some of this may have already been posted but i am just sharing what i have learned so far. i have not ran mine yet but i will post updates.
A little bit late here but am thankful for this thread. this thread is fitech's tech support for this system. I installed my kit (750HP kit /no trans ctrl) and have learned a few things and figured that i would share. The overall quality of everything is 100%. my application is a turbo 5.3 on e85.
to run E85 i was told by fitech to add 30% to the cubic inches in the initial setup. if you switch injectors they must be a high impedance. the injectors supplied with my kit are LS3 height. the top O-ring is .565" and the bottom is .565". the height is 1.497". they come with EV1 connectors. all fittings on the fuel rails are initially -6AN, i converted mine to a -8AN feed and return.
I am running a single turbo and was told by fitech that i only need one o2 sensor and to disable the other one (passenger side) in the initial setup. i was told that the o2 sensor should be at least 4" behind the turbo, not on a curve, and have at least 18" of exhaust after it.
I have also learned that if you plan to run this with truck accessories you will need a car water pump with spacers and will need to relocate your idler pulley (ICT makes an affordable solution for both problems). also the fuel fittings for the crossover will contact the back of the truck alternator. if you want to keep the stock location for the truck alternator you will need to replace the fitting in the fuel rail with a 90 degree ORB fitting. i used an earls fitting.
like i said thank you for all of the information. Some of this may have already been posted but i am just sharing what i have learned so far. i have not ran mine yet but i will post updates.
LOL!! Its funny your posting here today, as i came upon you in another thread yesterday and saw you seemed to have a nice project and same questions as most of us and i wanted to make you aware of this here thread but lost your page. Now i see you here. Good!!
There is a lot to learn and were doing good with our little group. We all have the same target so its a no brainer.
01-30-2018, 12:43 PM
