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exactly my point. Standard holley doesnt give you boost capabilities unless you add on. I cant remember exactly what the holley offers but I think it was around $1900-2100 for boost with add ons.
But IF you can get a full decent self tuning EFI for the cost of the holley harness whats that saying about how much holley is charging for there harness! Its just wire and connectors. Can't cost more than $50 for material as they buy in huge quantities, probably another $50 assemble and ship. So say they have $100 invested which I'm sure its less. still doesn't make sense to charge that much. They need the competition and maybe once the Fitech stuff gets proven 2 things will happen. One, Fitech will raise its price as they will realize they can get more money for the product, two, holley and other companies will drop the price or come out with something that costs less to compete with the fitech and get some of the business that they are losing.
Personally I hope option 2 happens. I think the holley and Fast stuff is over priced especially when you compare it to the features and price of even the MS gold stuff etc.
Yep, I did that. That's not what I meant. It actually need its software downloaded
dmracing, can you go into greater detail about this? What software did you have to download to the pcm? I’m getting closer to starting it up and want to make sure I got all my ducks in a row.
Try reloading the default software,Let me know what you find out.
Resetting to a stock calibration:
From the main menu go to the very bottom and select Write Cal To ECU. Once in this menu scroll down to the second to last selection, it should say Default v8 T195. Once on this file select it and it will download to 100 percent. After this is done it will revert to the main menu. Now go to Go EFI Initial Setup, then Engine Setup, now input all of the parameters that are needed for your application, making sure to save each one individually.
After you have entered your information and saved it go up and select Dash Board. Once in dashboard turn the ignition key off and wait for all the data to black out. Once this happens turn the ignition key to the on positon and start the car.
Just got my Fitech 70051 setup, this will run a basically stock 05 GTO 6.0 and 4L65E.. I'm a little new to the LS world and am looking for a little direction.. The Fitech doesn't use a MAF but does have an IAT, what would you recommend for an IAT, stock from an LS1?
Picked up a Dakota Digital dash, Tanks setup and nice looking set of Headman headers..
Just got my Fitech 70051 setup, this will run a basically stock 05 GTO 6.0 and 4L65E.. I'm a little new to the LS world and am looking for a little direction.. The Fitech doesn't use a MAF but does have an IAT, what would you recommend for an IAT, stock from an LS1?
Picked up a Dakota Digital dash, Tanks setup and nice looking set of Headman headers..
Does anyone know if the fan 1 and 2 outputs are positive 12v or ground activated? My current LS fan config using the stock PCM to control the fans was ground activation of the relays so I want to make sure it is the same or if the FItech pcm sends out a 12v + bc I don’t want to fry the pcm or relays.
FAN SETTINGS
By FiTech August 19, 2016 40 Comments
The Electric cooling fans can be controlled separately. Just a reminder – the system only controls a RELAY. DO NOT CONNECT DIRECTLY TO THE FAN – THE ECU COULD BE DAMAGED, AND DEFINITELY THE FAN WILL NOT WORK. The ECU provides a grounding signal for the control solenoid of the relay, which energizes the relay and allows the battery to supply voltage to the cooling fan.
Fan 1(2) ON Temp = Above this temperature, the electric cooling fan will be turned on.
Fan 1(2) OFF Temp = Below this temperature, the electric cooling fan will be turned off. Make sure to set this temperature below the Fan ON Temp.
Option Fan1(2) Enable = If you are not using an electric cooling fan that is controlled by the FiTech ECU, set this to Disabled. If you are controlling the electric cooling fan with the system, set it to Enabled. Leaving the fan in enabled mode, but without connecting a fan relay will result in a Fan Fault Code, and also some minor RPM fluctuations at idle when the ECU attempts to turn on the cooling fan.
Thanks guys. Finished up the install basically. The FItech system is fully wired up!! Basically redid all the positive battery wiring and grounds moving the battery to the trunk. Since the turbo system took the place of the battery all the wiring was moved as well. Including all the Engine grounds etc.
I've got one concern with running battery kill switch in rear is that I read somewhere if you kill power you will loose the learned memory. It said you must let engine run for 30 seconds before killing all power to retain memory. Lots of time you jump out and walk back and flip the battery switch when your finished with your run. Anyone eles heard of this?
I've got one concern with running battery kill switch in rear is that I read somewhere if you kill power you will loose the learned memory. It said you must let engine run for 30 seconds before killing all power to retain memory. Lots of time you jump out and walk back and flip the battery switch when your finished with your run. Anyone eles heard of this?
havent heard that. But it should have stored memory permanently all the time. Like the stock PCM will store long term fuel Trims even if the battery is disconnected. Otherwise what happens when we remove the battery for winter storage etc. my guess would be a minimum u would loose the learned data from that run if it were to loose anything. If we loose all data then we would have to reupload the same tune every time we remove the battery.
Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro September 27, 2016 at 5:14 pm Reply
Memory will be stored in the ECU if you key off on the system and wait 30 seconds before removing the battery positive lead. That's good to know DM saw this and made me wonder.
09-28-2017, 09:15 AM
