You're not going to have to worry about supras from a roll with a force fed 408. My dinky lil 360" motor will do most supras ugly from a roll on, remember that without race gas 99% of the 900 RWHP supras are 550 RWHP supras, but with the lag of 900 RWHP supras.

 

I agree totally, but there is a problem.

Have you ever driven the 03 Cobra? I hated its handling... I hated the ride height, I hated how cramped the interior felt, and I hated how far I had to reach for the shifter.

 

If your going to go the turbo/sc route, I'd re-use the stock crank.. and get forged pistons/rods. It'd help you meet your budget alot easier after spending $4000+ in clutch/driveshaft/rearend/fuel system.

The easiest way, imo. Would be big cubes + nitrous. 500+rwhp on a streetable big cubed motor isn't out of the ordinary these days. A 200 shot of spray would make up the gap This is probably the way with the least hassle, and the least expensive.

Either way.. after motor, fuel system, tuning, dyno, drivetrain, etc. I think it would be reallll close to budget.

Peace,
Josh

 

What about...

Team: 1BadLS1/427
ET: 8.62 @ 1.34 MPH, 1.29 60'
(Blower Only)
ET: 8.52 @ 1.63 MPH, x.xx 60'
(52 Nitrous Shot in High Gear)
ATI Procharger F1-R 19 PSI Boost

Not exactly sure what numbers they put but I'd put money on it being over 1000 rwhp. So I guess the question is, what Vortech F/Y-Body have eclipsed 1000 rwhp?

Mike

 

Both Vortech and ATI make good blowers. I do not see why a well built LS1 with an F1 supercharger can not make 700 rwhp with an M6. My car made 705 rwhp with an F1 (14lbs of boost). This was done on a 383 with a hydralic cam and stock ported heads. The car could had made another 30 rwhp if I would had messed with the timing but the biggest problem I encounterd was blowing intercooler pipes (that is why I highly recommend t-bolt clamps ). The two biggest restrictions I encountered was the twin high flow intercoolers which proved not to be efficient for my setup. Also I was running a small filter on my car. Your power goal can be easily be attained since your LS1 heads will outflow my LT1 heads.

 

Busch, that car has C5R heads and a F1R.

Wikdpsi, hello, what gas do you use?

 

Hey Prostock John

Why haven't you visited the Camaroz28 forum to bust my chops. I miss the arguements I had with you on F1 vs YS cars.

My car had C-16 in it but was not tuned anywhere near to it's potential. I was plagued with intercooler pipes popping off so we just gave up tuning for the day because of this. The car made 705 without even touching the timing. In reality the C-16 was probably not needed I just wanted insurance. That is the reason I said I probably could had made another 30 rwhp. The guy who tuned my car is probably one of the best FAST tuners in the country.

 

This is what u can go with to get a 700+rwhp..... I wrote this to a friend who wanted to see what he can do with his LS1..... I was just bored and wrote all this for him in an E-mail

Forced Induction Pricing:
ATI D-1SC 8 Rib setup $5500
High Boost tension setup (Needed for boost levels more than 13psi.) $600.
Front Mount InterCooler $800
This combo is good for 700rwhp.
OR
Single Turbo setup
T76 Qtrim turbo.... It comes with everything needed to finish the install. Max boost on the turbo will be 14psi. After 14psi it doesnt make power on a 346 CID LS1 let alone a 427CID. This kit maxed out at 760rwhp on a stock LS1 motor running race gas and methanol. COST 7K.
OR
Twin Turbo setup
Its good for 700rwhp.... It comes with everything needed for the install. COST 7K.


Engine setups: Note: Compression ratio should between 8.7-9.1 for SC and 8.5 for a Turbo.
1. Stock displacment 346CID, but with forged pistons, rods, studs, ect... 2K
2. 382-382 Forged bottom end on a stock LS1 block (3-4K)
3. 427CID on a stock LS1 block will need a resleeve which will cost 2K and then 4K for the crank and other needed parts. So thats a total of 6-8K for a 427CID on a stock LS1 block.
4. 427CID on a LQ4-LQ9 block will cost only 4-5K for the parts such as crank, rods, pistons, studs etc...

Now for all of these setups we can use Stage 3 heads 2.05 1.60 Dual Springs heads with R lifters. 2-3K depends on the options u want in them.
Cam choices for Turbos and SC will be different so u guys have to decide on what u want first and then i will give u a cam choice to work with it. Also the size of the CID is important to determine the size of the cam. Custom Cam usually cost 400-500.

Drivetrain: Both options will hold over 700rwhp.
1. Keep a T56 in it and change Clutch, Flywheel, pressure plate, master slave cly, 3-4 Fork $1800
2. Get a TH400 tranny with all the mounts and a TC for $2500.

A REAR END IS A MUST:
1. 12 bolt rear end with 33 spline, detroit locker, etc.... $2400
2. 9 Inch ford rear end which is the strongest rear end avaliable (Doesnt fit cars with no traction control, its a 4 channel ABS only) $2500.
3. My favorite rear end 8.8 Ford comes with everything and is 30lbs ligher than the 12 bolt and 9 inch ford and more effieicent (Doesnt rob power) $2200.

Fuel System and ECU:
1. Keep the stock ECU and use LS1 Edit with twin 255 Intank fuel pumps + 420 Inline pump with 60-65lbs injectors+ larger Fuel rails+ Fuel Pressure Regulator. $1700-2000.
2. Go with a stand alone system and use twin 255 Intank fuel pumps + 420 Inline pump with 80-90lbs injectors+ larger Fuel rails+ Fuel Pressure Regulator. Stand alone is $2000 alone + 1200-1500 for the other components = $3500.

NOTE: Noo need for option number 2 unless u maxed out option number 1 which by the way should be fine for a 650-700rwhp max.

With all these good stuff u will have overheating problems for sure in our weather.... U will need:
Larger Radiator + tranny cooler = $700.
Strong fans flows $600 for both.
160 thermostat = $50.


NOTE: If u guys went with the SC then u will need 1 7/8 headers into 3inch collector + a good flowing catback. $1500.
If u guys went with the turbo u will need a 3.0 inch all the way to the back catback to reduce back pressure. $700


I didnt add all the numbers up, but it depends on what exactly u choose and u can add the numbers ur self.

 

We will soon see what an F1 can do

Geomar

 

And for pricing , your budged is too too low . The F1 ain't cheap . You need alot more then just the motor and blower . You need an aftermarket ecu , injectors , bad *** fuel system , drivetrain , bla bla bla .

Geomar

 

dude just build a APE 408 throw on some AFR 225's that are hand ported, a nice cam 17/8 to 2" headers,90mm lsx and throw on a 200 shot and youll have your 700rwhp and youll do it for considerably less and youll be well within your budget even with all the suspensin/driveline

 

If all you want to do is go fast in the 1/4 mile your really best off buying a non-LS1 car that is already built. Personally, I would go with a forged stock CI motor and a D1SC or F1 ATI blower.

Good luck,

Mark

 

whyt bother spending $5500 for the ati procharger setup, when you can buy a steel bracket for $200, tensioner for $600, F1 unit and front mount for less than that

Ryan.