I went with the 6014 for the new features bla bla

Well my mistake but i just realized this box can only go to 21 lbs of boost!!!


What the hell MSD, hey lets go release a new box for LS guys and limit the **** out of it. Its not the days of 6 psi roots superchargers anymore.


Anyways end of rant....

Any one found a work around or what box do you use for non EFI stuff?

 

On mine the KPA scale scale for map shows 250 kpa ... by my math that equals 36.25 lbs of boost.
Might want to look again.

 

Minus atmosphere is about 21psi

 

yup thats only 21 PSIg. Frustrating that I just got my car running and I am already at 15 lbs and need more boost.

I might need to sell this box in the first year.

 

Gotcha ... my mistake.

 

That sucks ... something I didn't take into consideration when I ordered mine but I will only be running 14 lbs with a stock 4.8 blow through.

 

The map sensor just gives out a voltage....0v will be minimum ( well most are around 0.5v ), ie total vacuum ( or for that sensor anyway ) and 5v ( or more usually 4.5v ) will be maximum.

So you can use any map sensor you want, for any boost range you want. It may not correlate with correct numbers within your software, but it will still be perfectly functional.

 

On the new box I would need to bust it open and rig it to work.

The old box you could use any sensor, but this box the sensor is inside the box and you run the air line to the box

 

Ahh right, is the sensor built in ?

Can make things a little more awkward.

 

Yes its built into the box.

Not sure why MSD decided to do this, and then use such a low MAP.

I could see if they were trying to force people to use the power grid.... I had that but to convert a LS to use it costs stupid money. so thats not MSDs game plan.

Does anyone know what MAP the Datona sensors unit can use?

 

How much more boost are you hoping to use ?

You could just max the sensor out and tune like that. No ideal, but done by many over the years for any load sensor.

Or much as wastegates are fooled into thinking there is less boost there....you could create a small bleed on the signal line to the sensor. It might take a little bit of testing to get it where you want. But it should give repeatable results and the signal from the sensor would always just be less than actual boost.

Both are easy and free options, even if not ideal

 

I want to make the same power as my old big block.
To do that on the stock 5.3 heads i need about 30 lbs of boost for 900s at the tire.

MSD said the sensor when maxed will hold the last timing value, so once I pass 21 lbs you better have the timing you want in that cell for 25 or what ever boost you are going to run.


My issue is that I have seen peoples cars over boost or make more than the tune expected because of melted waste gate lines or heavier engine loading. and boom no more head gaskets.

 

Of course any setup needs tuned correctly..which often requires the correct parts. And likewise built correctly, so the problems you describe cannot occur.

Depending on budget, you'd almost be as handy buying a proper ecu, and if you are using a carb, just ignore the fuel side of things and let it run ignition only. But a decent ecu will allow you other features like overboost protection, you could add widebands and log fuel to help with tuning etc.

And at a later date if you decided you wanted to go EFI, the main controls are already in place.

 

Thats a really good idea....
That would allow dataloging and a more full featured programming set.


The MS3 pro is less than the race pack and msd box.

 

Yup just called the guys from megasquirt the MS3 pro evo package with harness is only $1200

I was going to buy a electric boost controller and i can sell my current box.

Between saving on the boost controller and selling my current box that makes the swap a no brainer

 

Great info here guys ... thanks.
I always ran a sbc with a 6al and boost timing master and worked well but this is my first foray into the blow through ls world.
When the time comes at least I have a heads up on options.

 

It certainly isnt uncommon for it to be done.

Some features may prefer fuel cuts, but most you can select between fuel cuts or spark cuts. In the case of ignition only you'd only have access to spark cuts, whether for say rpm limiter, overboost cut, 2step etc etc.

But a fully featured ecu just opens up more options to you.

 

i run a daytona sensors box with a blow through carb from csu and it is flawless.... it measures in inches of mercury but you can run a 2 or 3 bar map sensor... Dennis is great with tech help and even sent me a tune to start..... very simple to use and worth the money.... harness is very tidy and from what Dennis explained to me it is more accurate under high rpm and reads actual timing ... I guess msd can vary and is not "actual timing"

 

well I think the first mistake was downgrading a ls motor to carb and msd.....

 

I’d think you could crutch it a bit? If you installed a small bleeder valve inline to the MSD and setup your map accordingly. Say you leak out 20% of the boost supplied to the map. That means you can effectively gain timing control at 20% higher boost levels on the map? Might take some tinkering but it could work.