The bore... 005 over 5.3 vs .030 6.0.

But that said I don't know the sleeve thickness of your average 6.0.

There was a long time believe in the scene populated by some folks that we should shy away from aluminum blocks because they hmmm distort over time from boost and heat. But I have been looking at the data so to speak. Guys like Capizzi have 80 runs on a simple LC9, will tear it down, and everything is happy in there. I think perhaps the blocks in the past that had issues were the result of tuning or fueling issues. The scene has evolved so much from the early 2000s.

I give all the credit to guys like Capizzi, he shares all the details, any info about parts he's broken, he's an open book. Now he's putting a 102 on the race car atop his 5.3, will be interesting to see how that combo works.

 

Picked up my first truck in years, '18 ZR2. Will use it for towing.

 

What's the tow rating on that truck? I've been thinking about downsizing myself.

 

Rated 5000-7700 depending on model.

 

Looks like a nice truck!

 

I wanted something interesting to drive the other 350 days when I wasn't towing. Pretty peppy, 2nd quickest stock truck I've ever driven. My old 06 TBSS went 13.8 stock. Almost looked for another TBSS but they are all miled up.

 

John,
does the truck have the 3.6 DI motor? I’ve heard those are good motors.

 

Yeah it'a 3.6 DI VVT, 8 speed auto and 3.42s out back. 308hp stock. I like the trans gearing, it's a 4.5x first gear.

 

The to-do items quietly pile up...

• Alignment, hoping for next week
• Add window net, I need to measure that stuff again and order the parts. Would have Eddie Villadonga weld it in.
• Have Eddie Villadonga weld the track locator clevis mount to the rear part of the ladder bar, just to keep the clevis from moving
• Change 710 (oil)
• Move seat back a little bit
• Planning to order Smith Racecraft pinto rack conversion in near future, heard it would be easy to swap when motor is out, harder with it in there
• Picking into the steering wheel, the one I got does not fit my adaptor. But has a quick disconnect hub I might grab since he's not using it

Targeting may 1 for passes.

After I change the 710 and filter I'll do some transbrake, 2 step and bump testing in the parking lot by me.

 

Graham @ Fast Times told me he'd hone the LC9 this week, I'll start an engine thread once he's done that.

 

Woohoo more DIY stuff I can do.

I need to rebuild my steering, tie rods, pitman arm etc. Never done that before. I assume I should use some pb blaster or something on the bolts/nuts. Been told to measure everything before I take it apart. I would have loved to go Smith Racecraft on the steering rack but the motor would need to be out of the car.

Drove to / from the Triton College car show this past Sunday.

 

Definitely measure the assembled length of the tie rods ( rod ends and sleeve ) fitting to fitting will get you real close to where it is now . Be as precise as possible and check the clocking ( studs are about 90° different) . You're going to want a Pittman arm puller , tie rod splitter ( pickle fork) , ball joint press and ball joint splitter- not totally necessary as a good hammer blow will usually separate them, not sure if you're changing them. Hope your control arm bushings are good as they can be a PITA .

 

I had a UniSteer rack in my car before John. Still took a little fab work to make the steering shaft, but was bolt in otherwise.

The steering stuff it pretty easy, hardest part will be getting the pitman arm off and on the steering box. If you are changing the whole setup, I just pop the tie rods off the steering arms, pop the idler arm off the frame, (2 bolts), pop the joint off where the drag link connects to the pitman arm and drop the whole setup off in 1 piece. easy to lay it on the floor or bench and match everything up to the new stuff so all your measurements are close. Just remember everything has castle nuts so don't over tighten, (they tend to strip easy), and don't forget the cotter pins!

Sounds like you got it all lined out. Hopefully you didn't get the alignment done yet and that way you can make sure it's perfect after you finish the steering work.

 

Thanks guys. I did not get an alignment yet Gary.

Wondering if I should do a bump steer kit...

 

Factory steering components? Don’t bother.

 

Thanks, I was just going to do all Moog replacement parts, inner/outer tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm, I assume everything on the car is worn out. Are you running stock stuff @3 window ?

 

No, I run a Unisteer rack setup with factory arms. I didn’t need a bumpsteer kit nor should you with a factory setup unless you start increasing travel by a bunch.

 

Yeah I don't plan to bother with a bump steer kit and factory setup at this point.

Does your rack setup run the steeing linkage through a hole in the subframe?

 

Guessing you run something like this:

 

Okay... are you running flipped truck manifolds, how is the room for the steering linkage?

Lol this is the stuff makes me batshit crazy. I have 4 options:

1-Stock everything
2-Stock mostly + bump steer kit
3-Unisteer rack with factory arms
4-Smith Racecraft rack

Looks like doing option #3 which you have would be tricky with the engine in the car.

My plan is #1 right now.