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Powerglide with turbo 5.3

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Old May 24, 2020 | 02:45 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 3 window
Still really doesn’t answer how fast it comes on. Are you just using the wastegate or are you able to put pressure on the dome? You need to shift that thing AT LEAST 6500. Can’t lug the 5.3s, they don’t make a ton of torque to start with. My cam is smaller than yours (218, .570) and it pulls to 6700-7000 no sweat. I’m a t4 475 small wheel.
no dome pressure just as fast as it can 10lb spring in wastegates with manual boost controller
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Old May 24, 2020 | 03:07 PM
  #42  
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Had a bad header gasket but its 2 44mm wastegates but passenger side matches the driver side 3inch header collecter goes to 2¼inch pipe then into the t6 twinscroll flange
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Old May 24, 2020 | 04:00 PM
  #43  
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3 window did u get to open the log i posted
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Old May 24, 2020 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew Campbell 84z
3 window did u get to open the log i posted
I haven’t. I need to download Hptuners to my laptop. Post a screenshot of the log including timing.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 05:48 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Matthew Campbell 84z

Had a bad header gasket but its 2 44mm wastegates but passenger side matches the driver side 3inch header collecter goes to 2¼inch pipe then into the t6 twinscroll flange
Is there an intercooler hiding in there Matt?
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Old May 24, 2020 | 06:56 PM
  #46  
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Are you on the gas scale or E for AFR? (Looks fat either way).
Also, that things not making much vacuum at idle (79kpa). Should see more like high 50s Kpa. I’d look for a vacuum leak. Found too that it makes boost way to slow to give you a decent ET. How is the boost controller set up?
Did you degree the cam?
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Old May 24, 2020 | 08:51 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 3 window
Are you on the gas scale or E for AFR? (Looks fat either way).
Also, that things not making much vacuum at idle (79kpa). Should see more like high 50s Kpa. I’d look for a vacuum leak. Found too that it makes boost way to slow to give you a decent ET. How is the boost controller set up?
Did you degree the cam?
its set up for gas scale and by the end of the day I had it around 11.3 to 11.5 in high gear and yes there is a intercooler. I have the gm part# 12592525 map sensor 3 bar I don't think it's scaled correctly cause I see 116kpa when u first punch it(I believe it should goto 100kpa correct?) So yes ill have to redo the scaling on that. I could probably send u the tune file if u wouldn't mind looking at it im new to this and I've had it to a few ppl that just didn't help much and got burned but its running 7.50s so I'm getting there I just know it should be faster





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Old May 24, 2020 | 08:55 PM
  #48  
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U can see my manual boost controler going to both wastegates in this picture. Thanks for looking and helping 3 window.
and no I installed the cam dot to dot straight up
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Old May 24, 2020 | 09:03 PM
  #49  
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towards the end of 1st gear the rpm is jumpy because its a **** track and there's bumps lol but on the street it is smoother pulling thru the rpm range my main concern was wen I dumped off the transbrake it looks like I'm just footbraking. Maybe I can look into my time slip and logs and see how much converter slip there is based on mph and rpm if I ran say 7.50 can I check my timeslip mph and the logged rpm 7.5sec after I released the transbrake?
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Old May 24, 2020 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew Campbell 84z

U can see my manual boost controler going to both wastegates in this picture. Thanks for looking and helping 3 window.
and no I installed the cam dot to dot straight up
Get that map sensor scaled correctly. That’ll kill everything if it’s off. Send me the tune and I’ll look. I’m not super familiar with hptuners, but I’ll see if anything jumps out. Your boost curve looks like mine on the street. I’ve run low 7s at 113 on the street on a Nitto Drag radial. No reason you should be a second faster than your are now at the track. Gotta get it to make boost quicker. I’ll bet the gates are cracking early. I run onboard air so boost control is wicked tunable and accurate.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 09:53 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Matthew Campbell 84z
towards the end of 1st gear the rpm is jumpy because its a **** track and there's bumps lol but on the street it is smoother pulling thru the rpm range my main concern was wen I dumped off the transbrake it looks like I'm just footbraking. Maybe I can look into my time slip and logs and see how much converter slip there is based on mph and rpm if I ran say 7.50 can I check my timeslip mph and the logged rpm 7.5sec after I released the transbrake?
I'm guessing I have about 30% converter slip at the end of my run from mph rpm tire size and gear ratio. My last run was 97 and I went thru the 8th at 5660rpm I'm thinking about getting this to try it while I send my circle d converter back to see if they can restall it but ill get to work on the scaling of the map tomorrow

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Old May 24, 2020 | 11:50 PM
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Don’t bother with that converter. You’ll end up regretting it. The log you sent is using the E85 Stoich. That being said, you should never see under 7.3 on the E scale. That’s roughly 11.0 on the gas scale. You’re all the way down to 5.75 on the E scale. That’s richer than 9:1 on the gas scale.
Now for the converter.....you get on the two step within two seconds of getting it to the floor. That’s not bad. You leave on 8 psi (more than I have). Now the bad part, it flashes to 4700 and tugs the engine down. You can see where it rides the converter at 4700 for a bit. That’s well below any good torque. The thing is the fallback rpm isn’t horrible, however, it’s hard to tell because you short shifted it. You need to make a pass and wind it up to 6500-7000 and see what that does. You don’t want to adjust or swap a converter until you’re making the power you want. IMO it’s way too tight off the brake, by at least 700 rpms.
Now all of this could be do to it being so rich it’s not making any power. So here’s what I’d do....make sure the map is reading correctly, fix the fueling to something that makes more sense (can’t help you there in hptuner land), make a rip and see how the converter acts and go from there.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 06:47 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 3 window
Don’t bother with that converter. You’ll end up regretting it. The log you sent is using the E85 Stoich. That being said, you should never see under 7.3 on the E scale. That’s roughly 11.0 on the gas scale. You’re all the way down to 5.75 on the E scale. That’s richer than 9:1 on the gas scale.
Now for the converter.....you get on the two step within two seconds of getting it to the floor. That’s not bad. You leave on 8 psi (more than I have). Now the bad part, it flashes to 4700 and tugs the engine down. You can see where it rides the converter at 4700 for a bit. That’s well below any good torque. The thing is the fallback rpm isn’t horrible, however, it’s hard to tell because you short shifted it. You need to make a pass and wind it up to 6500-7000 and see what that does. You don’t want to adjust or swap a converter until you’re making the power you want. IMO it’s way too tight off the brake, by at least 700 rpms.
Now all of this could be do to it being so rich it’s not making any power. So here’s what I’d do....make sure the map is reading correctly, fix the fueling to something that makes more sense (can’t help you there in hptuner land), make a rip and see how the converter acts and go from there.
ok.. thanks ill try to get the map and fueling sorted out the best I can and try it again this weekend. Thanks for looking into it. Yes the tune is for e85 bc if I set it on gas scale my Vetable is thru the roof. So something else must be adding fuel. Thanks again for ur input. I appreciate it hopefully I can get this thing to run the way it should.
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Old May 31, 2020 | 11:53 AM
  #54  
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well. went to the track and made a pass and shifted at 6500 it seemed to lay over around 6200 but after the shift it pulled hard but still slow lol. ill put a log of the pass I believe I burned a piston or broke a ringland. it sounds muffled and kinda hollow but hopefully when I open it up and check there is more than one and maybe that's why it wasn't running its potential. idk but either way I get to try it all over. haha can someone tell me if the cylinder airmass grams is looking where it should be. its the highest ive ever saw it.
Attached Files
File Type: hpl
5.30 pass2.hpl (248.3 KB, 23 views)
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Old May 31, 2020 | 12:13 PM
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I can tell you this, running super rich is as bad as running super lean. Rich breaks ringlands. Just ask the nitrous guys! Sorry about your luck, but I hope you find something. You don’t happen to have any cheap flex joints in your hot side do you? Maybe one collapsed.
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Old May 31, 2020 | 12:21 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 3 window
I can tell you this, running super rich is as bad as running super lean. Rich breaks ringlands. Just ask the nitrous guys! Sorry about your luck, but I hope you find something. You don’t happen to have any cheap flex joints in your hot side do you? Maybe one collapsed.
no I don't have and flex pipes in the hot side. But its been super rich a few times ill keep that in mind for once its fixed. On e85 on the gas scale I shoot for 11.3 it does dip lower and I saw on the log it went in the tens above 6k but I had a terribly weak wastegate spring and replaced them and boost is at spring pressure(about 15lbs) in about 2secs after leaving the line. I didn't gap rings on this engine maybe that was it.
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