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Billet 7875 Results thread

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Old 10-01-2019, 11:02 AM
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quick question, for those with the nipple in the compressor outlet.
what thread is it?
thanks
Old 10-01-2019, 11:25 AM
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I think most are 1/8" NPT.
Old 10-01-2019, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
I think most are 1/8" NPT.
plan to thread in a prometh 10gph nozzle into that port on my rear mount!
Old 10-01-2019, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85
plan to thread in a prometh 10gph nozzle into that port on my rear mount!
Interesting. I think you'd be better off getting it close to the motor since it'll absorb more heat at the combustion chamber.
Old 10-01-2019, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85
plan to thread in a prometh 10gph nozzle into that port on my rear mount!
Yup, most are 1/8” npt. I had to drill and tap mine from VS. can’t remember if it was on the cast or billet 78/75 tho.

Careful spraying too too much. On a rear mount it would be better a few ft before the TB so it has time to atomize and pull the heat out of the charge. You still want it to make it to the cylinder to help with detonation so closer to the motor the better on a rear mount setup. U also don’t really want to spray too much before an intercooler if your going to run one. Sometimes it can condense and puddle before an intercooler.
Old 10-01-2019, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
Interesting. I think you'd be better off getting it close to the motor since it'll absorb more heat at the combustion chamber.
what the other nozzle or nozzles are for. 10gph rear and a 10 and maybe extra 5 at the motor
Old 10-01-2019, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85
what the other nozzle or nozzles are for. 10gph rear and a 10 and maybe extra 5 at the motor
Your not listening. Pre turbo spray only cools turbo outlet temp/housing temp. Besides the drop in temps it offers no detonation resistance in the chamber as I doubt your going to get any all the way at the front of the car to stay in “suspension”. You want to spray 10gph a few ft from the TB, if u feel like u need to spray pre turbo then go with a smaller 5gph nozzle. U have to be careful bc turbo wheel speeds are super high and spraying any liquid into them can actually eat away at the blades. On super chargers it’s easier due to the lower impeller speeds. Not saying that it will happen but it has happened.
Old 10-01-2019, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
Your not listening. Pre turbo spray only cools turbo outlet temp/housing temp. Besides the drop in temps it offers no detonation resistance in the chamber as I doubt your going to get any all the way at the front of the car to stay in “suspension”. You want to spray 10gph a few ft from the TB, if u feel like u need to spray pre turbo then go with a smaller 5gph nozzle. U have to be careful bc turbo wheel speeds are super high and spraying any liquid into them can actually eat away at the blades. On super chargers it’s easier due to the lower impeller speeds. Not saying that it will happen but it has happened.
I Can't listen when I'm reading, lol. when you been planing and reading and talking with builders and talking with The Don Julio and MR Rodney. This is setup this way for a reason. The car is also non intercooled. The nozzle in the rear is to help cool the charge which it WILL DO, the meth in the air is not just gonna disappear it is still in the pipe. Then the single or dual nozzles around 14" from the tb will do its job in the chamber when it goes BOOM. I do have a 3 and 5 extra nozzle that I can install at the end of the air filter on the turbo inlet if I want later on. The fine mist right at the comp outlet will work great. I do appreciate your advise
Edit, This is on a 01z06, tr6060 c6z diff swap, 2.5 off each manifold to a 3"ypipe then down to 2.5" all the way to the t4 flange. 11ft of 2" cold side all the way to the tb. non intercooled
Old 10-01-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
Your not listening. Pre turbo spray only cools turbo outlet temp/housing temp. Besides the drop in temps it offers no detonation resistance in the chamber as I doubt your going to get any all the way at the front of the car to stay in “suspension”. You want to spray 10gph a few ft from the TB, if u feel like u need to spray pre turbo then go with a smaller 5gph nozzle. U have to be careful bc turbo wheel speeds are super high and spraying any liquid into them can actually eat away at the blades. On super chargers it’s easier due to the lower impeller speeds. Not saying that it will happen but it has happened.
MR ForcedFed has sprayed much much more than a small 5gph pre turbo as well, plus local others.
Old 10-01-2019, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jdwtx85
MR ForcedFed has sprayed much much more than a small 5gph pre turbo as well, plus local others.
I was only saying 5gph bc thats what you said you had, I'm not going to guesstimate your nozzle size or offer a recommendation. Dump a lot of water meth that far away and it will be in the pipe... on the walls which does you no good. Nothing against who you've talked to and I know there names and what they do. Slap your **** together and drive it. Pull the pipes take a few pics of the inside and report back with your "IAT drop" that isn't a saturated sensor. This is a 78/75 thread which means your maxing out at 800-850ish hp on a billet version. Your not a super high HP car which would need tons of meth. It also matters if your spraying 70/30, 50/50, or pure meth. Speaking from experience in front mount setups I noticed no decent IAT reduction spraying pre blower or after and that was with multiple setups one being 2ft before the TB, and 70/30 and 50/50 did not do much for IAT swing during logging. But do you, some people need proof to learn. It might work great or it might not work as well as your hoping. I wasn't getting what I wanted with water/meth so I routed the pipe to accept a FMIC, then I spray 750cc/min about 3ft from the TB. The 70/30 mix is only worth about 10-15*F on my setup according to my logs. Say Im running about 120*F on a 90*F day, progressive controller starts spraying around 1-2psi and all in by 5psi I will see IAT drop to 105-108*F by the end of a 5s pull and continue to drop for a sec or two after letting off maybe getting to 100*F.

How much IAT temp are you hoping to shed with the meth?
Old 10-01-2019, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
I was only saying 5gph bc thats what you said you had, I'm not going to guesstimate your nozzle size or offer a recommendation. Dump a lot of water meth that far away and it will be in the pipe... on the walls which does you no good. Nothing against who you've talked to and I know there names and what they do. Slap your **** together and drive it. Pull the pipes take a few pics of the inside and report back with your "IAT drop" that isn't a saturated sensor. This is a 78/75 thread which means your maxing out at 800-850ish hp on a billet version. Your not a super high HP car which would need tons of meth. It also matters if your spraying 70/30, 50/50, or pure meth. Speaking from experience in front mount setups I noticed no decent IAT reduction spraying pre blower or after and that was with multiple setups one being 2ft before the TB, and 70/30 and 50/50 did not do much for IAT swing during logging. But do you, some people need proof to learn. It might work great or it might not work as well as your hoping. I wasn't getting what I wanted with water/meth so I routed the pipe to accept a FMIC, then I spray 750cc/min about 3ft from the TB. The 70/30 mix is only worth about 10-15*F on my setup according to my logs. Say Im running about 120*F on a 90*F day, progressive controller starts spraying around 1-2psi and all in by 5psi I will see IAT drop to 105-108*F by the end of a 5s pull and continue to drop for a sec or two after letting off maybe getting to 100*F.

How much IAT temp are you hoping to shed with the meth?
how much Iat drop am I looking for, eh idk. I don't want my temps over 130* 110* would be nice, gonna run around 13#s on my ls6. im thinking a 80/20 or 70/30 mix. My first setup will be low boost and only the rear nozzle spraying so I can get as good of a iat reading as I can without saturating the sensor with the front nozzle. I have a really strong tuner when it comes to safety. extremely popular in the vette world. driving from satx to dfw. I have hptuners pro to watch myself. thanks for your words.
Old 08-08-2020, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 47ford
I know it's not billet but I have an on3 7875 ran 10.70 @ 130 on 9 psi 3400lb camaro 6.0 blowthrough

bro question did you gap you ring. ? And if not how high did you boost it
Old 08-08-2020, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Elt Ward
bro question did you gap you ring. ? And if not how high did you boost it
didn’t touch the rings on any of my 5.3s. The only one Boosted so far has been to 15psi on pump 93 and didn’t pop But it had 150k on it when pulled. My 2 spare motors I didn’t check either. One supposedly had 98k and the other is unknown.
Old 08-08-2020, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by customblackbird
didn’t touch the rings on any of my 5.3s. The only one Boosted so far has been to 15psi on pump 93 and didn’t pop But it had 150k on it when pulled. My 2 spare motors I didn’t check either. One supposedly had 98k and the other is unknown.
dope you have any rough idea of how much hp you hit ,?
Old 08-08-2020, 03:44 PM
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It doesn't matter what HP he hit, every motor will be different and ring gaps will all vary. Tune and load on the motor also play a massive part. If you don't check them its a gamble... always. Sure you can take an educated guess... and for a 15lbs and under it's not that much of a concern with conservative tune IMO.,.. but the fact is, u just don't know. I had a 220k 5.3 with .023ish rings on all but 2 cylinders and those were at .016! I've seen some tight and some loose with high miles. You should really just pull them. The ring lands are nasty in every used LS motor I've touched. If the motors out, they should always be cleaned and the gaps checked IMO.
Old 08-09-2020, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Elt Ward
dope you have any rough idea of how much hp you hit ,?
Basically maxed out some 72lb injectors. About 700hp estimated on injector duty cycle.

you should check the ring gap especially if your planning decent to high boost.



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